So we need to look elsewhere for an explanation of what's
taking place.
If you take a print or negative and bleach it in a Potassium
Ferricyanide - Potassium Bromide bleach 1% of each then wash
and redevelop it (in room lighting) to completion it will be
restored to the same densities.
If you do the same but with little or no Bromide the redeveloped print
will be substantially lighter and won't reach the same densities and
the overall contrast drops.
The EXTREME dilution of a SLIMT bleach may be part of the explanation.
A 1% bleach is as much as 100 to 1000 times the strength of a SLIMT
bleach. With out bromide you do though note a drop in contrast.
So in the Sterry process the Dichromate, or SLIMT the Ferricyanide
is acting on the Silver halides in the emulsion and affecting the
development process, some halide must be being displaced.
More importantly, From David's cite of Mees&James: the HAlIDES
of SILVER PLAY NO PART in the contrastwise bleach. Minute
crystalline arrays of silver atoms are most affected. Dan
Why not just use fill flash and print normally? It's obvious when you look through the viewfinder that the contrast range is too high in a scene like this. If you forgot to use fill flash then have the negative scanned and adjust the contrast in pp.
The EXTREME dilution of a SLIMT bleach may be part of the explanation.
A 1% bleach is as much as 100 to 1000 times the strength of a SLIMT
bleach. With out bromide you do though note a drop in contrast.
More importantly, From David's cite of Mees&James: the HAlIDES of SILVER PLAY NO PART in the contrastwise bleach. Minute crystalline arrays of silver atoms are most affected. Dan
More importantly, From David's cite of Mees&James: the HAlIDES
of SILVER PLAY NO PART in the contrastwise bleach. Minute
crystalline arrays of silver atoms are most affected. Dan
Something rather wrong there, as the latent image is held by the Silver halide crystals it goes without saying that the Silver halide plays a part in the process.
Something rather wrong there, as the latent image is held
by the Silver halide crystals it goes without saying that the
Silver halide plays a part in the process. Ian
Why not just use fill flash and print normally? It's obvious when you look through the viewfinder that the contrast range is too high in a scene like this. If you forgot to use fill flash then have the negative scanned and adjust the contrast in pp.
Forgive me is this has already been covered,
but developer choice makes a significant difference in the response of paper
(although it has been poo-pooed by writers over the past 30 years,
anxious to defend variable contrast paper).
The conventional alternative to Dektol is Selectol-Soft (120) and so most of us are usually working with metol and metol/HQ developers.
LPD is a very different developer, which, with long scale negatives, can produce rich blacks and a longer range of light grays and whites. In my darkroom, it adds 2 zones to unfiltered MGIV over Dektol, between Zone V and Zone IX. A bit like a platinum response. A bit... depending on what the specific platinum process is doing for you.)
A glycin/carbonate developer (no metol, no HQ) makes an even longer transition from white to black, while producing strong paper blacks (unlike 120). Rodinal does the same thing, and Catechol, although glycin/carbonate is easier (I think) to work with. Sulfite/Glycin/Carbonate, pretty simple.
You can emulate a platinum palette on MG IV with TMY2 and a glycin/carbonate/sulfite paper developer.
Excellent, thanks for posting. I'll admit in 30+ years I have been a Dektol person.
Without sounding like a broken record, you wouldn't happen to have any paper curves to post?
Without sounding like a broken record, you wouldn't happen to have any paper curves to post?
No, sorry, I don't post curves anymore.
I know this is an old thread and if I missed an answer to this question? I apologize but has anyone used this on litho film to reduce contrast and this use it as an inexpensive copy negative film?
Like I wrote back in 2014, SLIMT works great with Adox CMS20 and I've also used with Agfa Copex-Rapid.
Give it a shot!
I'd love to see examples of that.
Like I wrote back in 2014, SLIMT works great with Adox CMS20 and I've also used with Agfa Copex-Rapid.
Give it a shot!
I know this is an old thread and if I missed an answer to this question? I apologize but has anyone used this on litho film to reduce contrast and this use it as an inexpensive copy negative film?
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