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Slightly pink hue?

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ToddB

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Ok.. Developed a roll of 120 this weekend and noticed that they had a slight hue of pink. Is my fix getting tired or d-76?

ToddB
 
if it's one of the "newer film types" (T Max/Delta) then you need to fix them for 50% longer to get rid of the Pink tint.

From memory when T Max first came out Kodak used to recomment using a particular solution to clear the pink tint form the film base....
 
I forgot which film has the pink tint. I think it's Tmax. You just need to wash it longer. It will eventually come out. If your developer was tired, then you get totally clear or very thin film. If your fixer was tired, you get creamy film with sort of fogging looking thing all over.

I think what you are observing is the dye... which will wash out if you wash longer.
 
It's common with Tmax. I have a green hue in my fix from processing Arista EDU.
 
I've seen the same pink hue with Tri-X 400 lately and assume that, like with T-MAX, a refix is called for.
 
So what happens if I don't refix it? Will anything bad happen? I've seen the same thing for the newer tri-x 120 I've bought, but the older tri-x is fine and I haven't changed anything in the process... Older like 6 months older... Vs new from store...


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A refix is in order. You may experience image degradation if you dont.
 
If the red hue indicates poor fixing (and people more knowledgeable than me say so), you are bound to see all the problems associated with poor fixing, in several years at least.
 
Hello Todd;
Try the following, which has been covered many times! Presoaking, fixer, using Hypo Clearing Agent, and better washing. The Formulary sells a Tmax fixer. In my case turned out to be using old fixer. Now I mix new fixer every 60 days and use HCA, Steven.
 
Hey guys.. I use Ilford Delta 100. I was thnking the fix might be getting tired.

Todd
 
Yup, probably the fix. I've not had to refix negs since I started using hypo-check.
 
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It's so strange on another forum I saw someone say that the newer tri-x just had a pink hue and it was normal, something about the way they did something to it at the factory.

Two we are getting mixed signals, some say age will change the film, some say it won't matter and is aesthetic.

The reason I'm hesitant is more because I have already cut the film into individual pieces and so to re-fix properly I would have to do 15 rolls one image at a time or they will stick together... So I won't do it if its just aesthetic... I did both ilford D3200 and tri-x 400 and only the tri-x is pink.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm not sure a slight pink hue is a bad thing. In my case they were pink enough (and therefore under-fixed enough) that they were cloudy, which was quite apparent when scanning and printing.

I suppose there are some long-term archival considerations but I don't really think that my negatives are that good, I will be doing the world a favour if they don't last. :smile:
 
I've found with Tmax if there is a slight pink hue it will wash out with a 15 minute final wash. With more pink in the film I refix and it all goes away. I've never has any film when dried have a pink hue.
 
Yea this was a dry pink hue, it's VERY slight... And I don't have any clarity issues, images are crisp.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Refix! Some of my old negs, a decade or two old are unprintable now. They have nasty yellow-brown splotches. Bad fix will get ya.

You can refix and wash in a tray, if the negs are already cut. A plastic covered paper clip opened into an S, can be looped through a sprocket hole for hanging 35mm strips.
 
The pink stain is real. For certain in the TMax films. What is it? Why do Kodak put it in the film in the first place?
 
TMax and Delta need more time in Hypo. Some say 50%, I have sometimes had to double the time even with fresh Hypo.
 
Ralph says its good, sly says re-fix...

Also all of my images are 120 cut not 35mm so can't use paper clips...


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TMax and Delta need more time in Hypo. Some say 50%, I have sometimes had to double the time even with fresh Hypo.

Dumb question, is this the same as hypo?

yqa9u2e9.jpg



~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TMax and Delta need more time in Hypo. /QUOTE]

This is the general view about TMax but I had never heard this being applicable to Delta. Ilford says nothing to indicate a 50% increase in fixer time and I have never noticed any issues with Delta film using the same times as I use for "old tech" film such as HP5+

pentaxuser
 
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