Slightly pink hue?

the two-bath fixing method 'fixes' the issue entirely

Michael R 1974 said:

Ilford recommends 2-5 minutes in fresh Rapid Fix (Ammonium Thiosulfate) at 1+4. I always use fresh fixer and have never needed longer than Ilford's 5 minutes with any film, including TMax and Delta. Shorter times could probably be used for non-tabular films. Best to do a clearing test with your particular film and then fix for 2-3 times the clearing time.

Some reminders for those less experienced:

1. Mix the working solution thoroughly. People sometimes neglect good mixing when dealing with liquid concentrates. There is an Ilford tip sheet which warns that the liquid Rapid Fix concentrate needs to be thoroughly stirred into the water to mix properly.

2. Proper agitation. I would recommend agitating for at least 10 seconds per 30 seconds throughout the fixing time.

Ralph and Sly are both right. It depends on the various dyes in the film, and the film base itself may have a slight tint. For example after fixing and a complete/thorough wash TMax 100 is virtually colourless, while some Ilford films such as Delta 100 (in 35mm at least) will have a very slight bluish cast.

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I always fix 5 minutes exactly, and it's strange because its only SOME of my tri-x... I do re-use my fixer a lot though,so I'll just fix longer in the future, the shots aren't SUPER important, just a bit so I'll take my chances and let it be... For now..


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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T-Max (or the Delta films) for 5 minutes in used Rapid Fix may not be enough. The

Here is a modified procedure for two bath fixing.

Do a clip test with fresh fix - record the time.

Mix up enough fresh, working strength film fix to do two batches of the film at the same time. Label one fix 1, and the other fix 2.

Use the fixer in fix 1 with your film, and do a clip test at the same time. When the clip has cleared, record the time, and pour back the fixer into fix 1.

Now use the fixer in fix 2 with your film for the same length of time.

You will have well fixed film.

The clearing time will get gradually longer. When it has doubled, discard both batches of the fix in an appropriate manner. Mix anew.

Next, check whether you still have a pink hue. You might, because while fully fixing gets rid of lots of the remaining dyes, it might not have got rid of all of them, because that really isn't the main job of fixer, but instead a fortunate additional benefit.

The pink hue isn't proof that the film isn't properly fixed, but it is a clue that it might not be properly fixed, so if you haven't used a clip test or, even better, a retained silver test, then it would be best to assume the worst.

If you still have some pink hue, Hypo Clearing Agent (not "Hypo"!) or another competing wash aid also helps with that. Again, not the main purpose, but another fortunate additional benefit.

The pink hue is harmless. Incomplete fixing is hazardous.

Sirius Glass said:

No, the wetting agent helps the water flow off the film without leaving streaks.

Sold by FreeStyle, one of APUG's sponsors http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?rfnp=30&q=hypo&rfnc=303&

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The link you sent me to shows fixer, is hypo the same as fixer?


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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Don't all modern films have an anti-halation layer? They don't all have this pink tinge after processing though.

Hypo - fixer
Hypo clear - helps get rid of the fixer, less wash time needed
Hypocheck - a drop in the fixer lets you know if it's time to dump it and make fresh.

sly said:

Hypo - fixer
Hypo clear - helps get rid of the fixer, less wash time needed
Hypocheck - a drop in the fixer lets you know if it's time to dump it and make fresh.

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Gotcha, thanks! Photography terms seem to change as processes change yet old names still stick around and since I'm relatively new (in terms of the processing side) the old terms sometimes get confused.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sly said:

Hypo - fixer
Hypo clear - helps get rid of the fixer, less wash time needed
Hypocheck - a drop in the fixer lets you know if it's time to dump it and make fresh.

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And Hypo Eliminator - no longer used, and not the same as Hypo clear

PS the name "Hypo" comes from an obsolete way of designating a certain type of chemical.

What was once known as "hyposulfite of soda" is now, and more correctly, known as "sodium thiosulfate".

Michael R 1974 said:

Be careful to differentiate between a "regular" fixer (Sodium Thiosulfate - often referred to as Hypo), and Rapid Fixer (Ammonium Thiosulfate). Big difference in fixing time (both film and paper) and potentially procedures particularly for paper.

StoneNYC - Ilford has some good publications to read on processing, which you can get off the website.

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Thanks I've been working off my iPhone for the last few months, JUST got a new computer so now I can do more research and print stuff! (Normal paper stuff not photos)

I use ilford rapid fixer at 5 minutes for everything B&W.

Is there such a thing as OVER fixing?


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Michael R 1974 said:

Regarding 5 minutes - this is fine for fresh Ilford Rapid Fixer. If you are reusing your fixer make sure to do the clearing tests to figure out if/when you need to extend time.

Yes there is such a thing as overfixing. For film you don't have to really worry about an extra minute here and there but if you way overfix, the fixer will begin to bleach the developed silver in the negatives (you'll start to lose density - certainly you do not want this to happen to your shadows).

For papers, it is really best to stick very close to the manufacturer's instructions (again - see Ilford publications) and follow them carefully. Not only do you want to avoid bleaching, but with fiber papers, fixing for longer than the recommended time can leads to longer wash times or other problems. Of course, underfixing is bad for all sorts of reasons.

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Gotcha, all good info!


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

StoneNYC said:

The link you sent me to shows fixer, is hypo the same as fixer?


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yes, unless you are talking to a urologist or a veterinarian.

Dumb question: in a clip test, how do you see when the film turns clear? (or am I supposed to do this in a separate beaker outside the tank?)

GarageBoy said:

or am I supposed to do this in a separate beaker outside the tank?

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Yes. The clip test is not overly sensitive to ambient light and can be done in broad daylight.