Slide films?

[ericdan]

I like Fuji's Provia.

 

[Roger Cole]

What kind of colours? Slide film will go blue in the shade, etc etc... you have to colour balance it before you take a photo using filters.
For reproducing colours? I would probably go Portra 400, Reala, Ektar tc...

Slide films are great if you want saturated and very contrasty colours. Now the question is, how do you want to reproduce the colours?

Slide film doesn't actually go blue in the shade. What it does is render those colors accurately and shadows ARE blue. You can see it if you pay attention but normally our brains compensate because we know what things are supposed to look like. Most negative films (Ektar is an exception) are designed to warm this up and look more "natural" but it's really less accurate. But yes, if you want the photos to look more like your brain perceives the shadows you will need to filter, at least under some lighting (particularly open shade, for example, which can be VERY blue on a sunny day.)

Drat I'm sounding like Drew.

 

[Nuff]

Slide film doesn't actually go blue in the shade. What it does is render those colors accurately and shadows ARE blue. You can see it if you pay attention but normally our brains compensate because we know what things are supposed to look like. Most negative films (Ektar is an exception) are designed to warm this up and look more "natural" but it's really less accurate. But yes, if you want the photos to look more like your brain perceives the shadows you will need to filter, at least under some lighting (particularly open shade, for example, which can be VERY blue on a sunny day.)

Drat I'm sounding like Drew.

Yes, I know all about the light temperature. The result is blue slide. 81a filter corrects it.

Am I the only one here trying to figure out what are the best "results" he's after, not technicalities?

If he wants blue photos, provia 100f without filter in shadows is perfect. I guess I'm talking to myself here, so I'm out...

 

[Roger Cole]

No I get what you're saying. I'm just saying it is showing what's there, rather than what your brain sees.

And I've no idea what "best results" he means either.

 

[Roger Cole]

well reproducing color mostly, sure I suffer from deuteranopia, but so what, film doesn't!

Well this is important, because it means you may not be able to judge how accurate the film is, at least in terms of how others will view the results.

For you, of course, you can certainly tell which film shows you results that look to you like the original scene looks to you.

 

[M6F6E6]

Just a tip - usually shoot the Velvia 50 at 40 - won't be oversaturated like it often tends to be. U need to be very precise with metering your exposures - it is too expensive to bracket. Anyway, Ansel Adams used to say that bracketing is the domain of the amateur (paraphrased). He was right then and even moreso now. Measure twice - cut once

 

[Roger Cole]

There often isn't one right exposure with slide film and especially with Velvia. The range of the film is just less than the range of many scenes so you are going to lose detail in either the shadows or highlights or maybe both (the darkest shadows and brightest highlights.) Experience with this helps (as does choosing your scene) but sometimes bracketing can produce more than one good photo that look quite different from each other.

 

[coigach]

There often isn't one right exposure with slide film and especially with Velvia. The range of the film is just less than the range of many scenes so you are going to lose detail in either the shadows or highlights or maybe both (the darkest shadows and brightest highlights.) Experience with this helps (as does choosing your scene) but sometimes bracketing can produce more than one good photo that look quite different from each other.

and, for landscapes at least, using ND Grad filters can give you the range you need...

 

[Alan Klein]

Just a tip - usually shoot the Velvia 50 at 40 - won't be oversaturated like it often tends to be. U need to be very precise with metering your exposures - it is too expensive to bracket. Anyway, Ansel Adams used to say that bracketing is the domain of the amateur (paraphrased). He was right then and even moreso now. Measure twice - cut once

It's too expensive not to bracket. Think of all the time and gas and car expenses you put into driving to and back from the spot you're photographing. Film is cheaper than gasoline. After spending a day out shooting, I don't want to look at one shot of a scene where I screwed up the exposure. My time is more valuable as well. Plus, when shooting in difficult light such as during magic hour, it's easier to miscalculate exposure than at high noon with the sun out. If I get one of the three shots correct rather than missing it altogether, I'm sure Ansel will forgive me. I shoot MF 120 Velvia 50 and bracket +1 and -1. I used to bracket +1/2 and -1/2 as well, but 5 shots seemed like too much. I guess I'm a little bit cheap. Also, bracketing 1/2 a stop means changing the aperture, something I like to be constant for similar DOF between shots. With 1 stop, I only have to change the shutter speed and can knock off three shots quickly.

One caveat. I do this shooting landscapes. Obviously if you're shooting action shots where the scene is not static, your technique has to be different.

 

[Alan Klein]

Yes the V500 will scan them but learning the process takes awhile. I use a V600 which is very similar to the V500. I use the Epson scan software that came with the scanner. Here's my link to my Velvia 50 pictures. I really like the colors it brings out which can also be adjusted after the scan a certain amount. https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/tags/velvia/

Velvia 100: https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/tags/velvia100/

I tried Ektar 100 negative film but found it hard to adjust. Portra is negative film but seems easier to scan. It's just that the colors are very neutral, good for people shots but not for landscape pictures.

I don't project slides but I do create slide shows using DVD's for showing on my HDTV. I add music to the DVD to accompaniment the photos. It's very convenient and does a pretty good job. It's convenient to set up in my home or take the DVD when visiting friends and families.

 

[Roger Cole]

Good points about the costs Alan. Personally I'd choose just the 1/2 stop brackets. A full stop is HUGE in slide film and if I have a decent idea of the exposure I doubt either 1 over or 1 under will be any good. Even 1/3 stop will make a noticeable difference with slide film.

 

[BrianShaw]

Good points about the costs Alan. Personally I'd choose just the 1/2 stop brackets. A full stop is HUGE in slide film and if I have a decent idea of the exposure I doubt either 1 over or 1 under will be any good. Even 1/3 stop will make a noticeable difference with slide film.

+1. I bracket very differently for B&W/color neg than I did with slide film.

 

[ME Super]

They'll scan fine but you will really appreciate them more projected.

On the Witner, that's interesting that it's a bit warm but not overly so and less saturated. That honestly sounds like the old Ektachrome 200. I shot some of that I had a year or two ago and the difference when the slides were mixed within the same tray with E100G and Provia 400X was startling. When an E200 slide came up it was just warmer and considerably less saturated. For some things I really liked the look.

Actually, it reminds me a lot of the Ektachrome 200 of the late 80's/early 90's, in color, saturation, contrast, and grain. I shot my son's 8th grade graduation on the Wittner film this past May, and was pretty pleased with the results.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I never bracket film, never have, and almost never goof an exposure setting, with the exception that at my age I need to look thru a magnifier at my meter scale in dim light, and it's cost my a few good shots shortcutting that fact. For me, color film is NOT cheaper than gasoline. I mostly shoot 8x10 and gotta get it right the very first time. With small formats I might indeed semi-duplicate shots, but it would be more related to moving clouds or the probability of getting something like that exactly pegged, not the risk of incorrect exposure. But I spotmeter everything.

 

[wildbill]

I'm guessing that those of you who bracket aren't shooting much 4x5 or 8x10. At $10-15 a pop plus processing, bracketing 8x10 would require a second mortgage. I use a spot meter and never bracket. I DO forget to close the shutter every once and a while and don't realize it until I pull the darkslide. I'm with drew, learn to use your meter.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Go Ferrania...

Everyone try to contribute something if you can. Even just a small amount.

It's possibly the last, best hope.

Ken

As soon as I can find out how to buy 120, or until I get a 35mm, plus the extra funds, I will do this in an instant! :w00t: Great suggestion, as everyone else has contributed! First and foremost, I need to shot, shot, shot! I have photographed a few more of my recently loaded ILFORD FP4 PLUS 125!! I have to take the sweetest time in order to feel comfortable snapping way! xD

 

[Roger Cole]

I'm guessing that those of you who bracket aren't shooting much 4x5 or 8x10. At $10-15 a pop plus processing, bracketing 8x10 would require a second mortgage. I use a spot meter and never bracket. I DO forget to close the shutter every once and a while and don't realize it until I pull the darkslide. I'm with drew, learn to use your meter.

I do shoot a bit of 4x5 but I "bracket" by test exposure on Fuji instant color. It's not cheap either but a lot cheaper than 4x5 color these days.