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Sleeper 35mm cameras - good and cheap

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Mapleton

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Mapleton

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  • Mar 27, 2026
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I hate plastic cameras. They may work for some people, but I can't stand them, especially when solid, pro-level cameras which were once out of reach of regular photographers can now be had for cheap. I just picked up a Nikon F3HP with an MD4 motor drive and lens for less than what I paid for just a used MD4 back in 1990. The 50/300 ED zoom I lusted after in 1990 (and which cost $3500 back the) I just managed to find now for $500.

Top picks for me would be the Pentax SP and 55/2 Super Takumar, a SRT 101 with a 50 or 58/1.4 MC Rokkor, or the Canon FTB, or even an F1 (I just got a nice F1 for $100) with a FD 50/1.4 lens. For rangefinders, the best bang for the buck is the Yashica Electro 35. All the full-size Electros use the same lens, later models have a flash hot shoe, and a larger film speed range. If you want interchangeable lenses, get a Canon 7 or Canon P with a 50/1.8 LTM lens. Stay away from the Russian crap unless you are mechanically-inclined.
 
Get yourself a nice Agfa Clack for $10 and spend the rest of your money on roll film, some developer and having a good time.

Agfa_Clack_002.jpg
 
For Canon FD (if you like heavier Cameras) I would recommend a heavily used F1 new. I got mine on ebay for 60 Euros as it had the a heavily dented AE Finder (AE screen display does not work anymore) and the Camera has some brass too.
But it is a great match needle camera with automatic options. you can take worn ones at it is very solid. If you can stand a little "professional used" look I much prefer it to the Ftb (no battery problem, 1/2000, bright laser matte viewfinder, rock solid, better shutter sound, modern Si Cell metering etc...)
It is really a great tool with extraoridinary bulid quality.! And the 1.4/50 is really great and cheap...

For a lighter camera I would recommend the Olympus OM2..., it is like a Leica SLR should have been...
 
In the hey-day of 35mm film there were very few 35mm cameras that could not properly expose a focused sharp clear image on the film.
 
What I'm looking for in this thread is something like: "Hey Jordan, I shoot with a ________ and I find it to be as good as my Nikon, but for peanuts."

Hey Jordan, I shoot with an FM and I find it to be as good as my F2, but for peanuts! :laugh:

Well, I don't really (FM, I do F2), but I did handle an FM and a pretty one with a 35 O will both easily fit under $200 and give you joy on many non-suicide assignments. I see no reason to give up Nikonness, Nikonity and, most importantly, Nikonhood!

By the way, cool sheep! :cool:
 
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I hate plastic cameras. They may work for some people, but I can't stand them, especially when solid, pro-level cameras which were once out of reach of regular photographers can now be had for cheap.
I'm of the opposite inclination. I rarely carry heavy pro cameras now, pretty as they are an F2 with a 35mm metal lens delivers virtually the same image as a Mju II that'll fit in a shirt pocket. The only bad cameras I've bought second hand have been ex-professional models. Low mileage amateur cameras that rarely left their never ready case have proved to be far more reliable shooters. Ironically, one of the toughest 35mm cameras I own is a plastic Canon T90, nicknamed the tank by Japanese photojournalists of the time. Before I had it CLA'ed the electromagnetic shutter was sticking, for which the accepted (if temporary cure) is hitting it on a hard surface. We're not talking a sharp tap here, but slamming the thing onto concrete. Not a scratch.
 
If all manual cameras are your thing, I'd recommend the Canon AT-1. Match needle metering with an electronic shutter in a body that takes modern batteries. Prices are rock bottom.
 
I got me a Canon AE-1 with 35 and 50 mm lenses and a nice case for $25 recently. Only needed a new battery. :laugh:
 
Is it all metal or a hybrid with plastic?

All Metal,, I'm re-amazed everytime I use mine at the construction and almost unkown status of these cameras, the only problem I've had is the KR20sp and XRP, the mirror will slowly slip down over time when used with a winder. The fix is easy and the XRP is the only camera I've ever seen with a built in intervalometer. Don't know if I spelled that righyt. lol
 
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