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Skeptical about Bellini C-41 timing

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muhco3

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Hello

I Purchased Bellini C41 3 bath kit , however the timing seems wrong to me

They mentioned the following timing

Developer 3:15
Bleach 45 seconds to 1 minute
Fixer 1:30 to 2 minutes

Which is way different from Kodak and Fuji three baths kit in the bleach and fixer steps where they call for 6:30 for each .

Has anyone tried the Bellini kit ? or do you have recommendations ?
 

koraks

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Which is way different from Kodak and Fuji three baths kit in the bleach and fixer steps where they call for 6:30 for each .
The 6m30 times were initial C41 times that were used a long time ago. Present-day bleach and fix (and probably bleach-fix) are far faster; they're RA (Rapid Access) chemistry and at typical C41 temperatures, the Bellini times are indeed perfectly sensible. FYI: e.g. Fuji RA lab chemistry uses the same times.

or do you have recommendations ?
Not so much a recommendation, but personally I use Fuji (RA) chemistry and I just use 3m15s for every step; develop, bleach and fix. I don't have to re-set my timer that way and longer bleaching & fixing doesn't hurt a bit, since both steps go to completion anyway. The same would work with the Bellini chemistry.
Also, I would recommend adding a stop bath between develop and bleach; it's not strictly necessary, but in a typical small tank with spiral reels, there's more carry-over from the developer into the next bath. If the bleach is reused without replenishment (also typical for many home users), this means that ultimately the pH of the bleach my start to shift significantly enough to affect its effectiveness. This can be avoided with a simple acetic acid stop bath.

PS: this is from a FUJIFILM C41 Technical Bulletin:
1768151619363.png

Note the exact same times as those Bellini gave for rapid access processing and RA chemistry: 0:45 bleach, 1:30 fix.
 
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brbo

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As far as I know, Fuji/Kodak also have "Rapid Access" (RA) bleach and fix with similar times.

I would follow manufacturer's instructions unless you have reasons to do otherwise. Of course, extending bleach and fixer times probably won't hurt the negatives...
 

mshchem

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C-41RA process is what is used for the quick minilab machines. Uses a bleach that typically requires a minute (you can go longer with no harm) and a fixer that requires 1.5 minutes.

If you look for Flexicolor RA bleach and fixer you'll see that Kodak equivalent.

Sounds like you are looking at the Bellini version of the C-41 Rapid Access process.
 
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muhco3

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Also, I would recommend adding a stop bath between develop and bleach; it's not strictly necessary, but in a typical small tank with spiral reels, there's more carry-over from the developer into the next bath. If the bleach is reused without replenishment (also typical for many home users), this means that ultimately the pH of the bleach my start to shift significantly enough to affect its effectiveness. This can be avoided with a simple acetic acid stop bath.

PS: this is from a FUJIFILM C41 Technical Bulletin:

Note the exact same times as those Bellini gave for rapid access processing and RA chemistry: 0:45 bleach, 1:30 fix.
How long should I use the stop bath for ? and should I wash after the stop bath (before fixer )?
 
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muhco3

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Thank you for the advice , I did pay attention to the new RA process . I used before the Fuji Hunt kit that used the standard C41 timings which confused me with the Bellini .
 

mshchem

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Thank you for the advice , I did pay attention to the new RA process . I used before the Fuji Hunt kit that used the standard C41 timings which confused me with the Bellini .

Yes, it's confusing that's for certain. The attitude seems to be to try and keep it "simple" and by doing so makes things even more confusing! Cinestill is the worst case.
 
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muhco3

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30 seconds is OK. Stop goes between develop and bleach, fix follows after bleach. You don't have to wash between stop and bleach. It's a good idea to wash between bleach and fix.

Thank you

Yes, it's confusing that's for certain. The attitude seems to be to try and keep it "simple" and by doing so makes things even more confusing! Cinestill is the worst case.

Indeed it is ! though is seems to many the manufacturer of many of those kit might be the same as I found many similarities in the MSDS .

I have moved from the Blix kit long time ago to the standard C41 process for better results and reduce the margin of error (the culprit being the Blix) , moreover I have got horrendous results from the three bath E6 kit ( I'll try the standard six bath kit soon) as I got very dark slides and severe color shift despite adhering to the recommended temperature and timing ( it was Tetenal kit )

horrendous
 

brbo

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In the past I used both Fuji Hunt E-6 (6-bath, 7 if you count stabiliser) and Tetenal 3-bath kits and got excellent results in both.

Excellent!
 
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muhco3

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In the past I used both Fuji Hunt E-6 (6-bath, 7 if you count stabiliser) and Tetenal 3-bath kits and got excellent results in both.

Excellent!
Maybe smoothing went wrong during my chemical mixing
 
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