Sizing Paper for Alt. Process

[Howl23]

Does any one size their paper before coating for alt process? This book I was reading stated to size the paper with spray starch, but my understanding is that the paper should already be sized during the manufacturing process, making this a bit redundant.

 

[Vaughn]

Too many variables. It will depend of the process and its needs. Carbon printing needs the final support to not pass water/air. That requires a heavier sizing (a layer of harden gelatin, for example), than cyanotype. Or in my case, I use fixed-out photopaper with its gelatin coating.

Some processes are acid-loving...so an alkaline size can mess with the chemical processes needed. So some papers need to be soaked in a weak acid to counter the sizing.

Spray starch was the go-to sizing back in the early days of alt photography...it allowed students to use cheap papers. Better materials now. And easy to get better papers that need no extra sizing.

 

[Howl23]

Hi Vaughn,

Thank you for the reply. I am curious to see what other's opinions are on the matter and yours is greatly appreciated!

That does make sense that it would vary heavily on the specific alt process. At the moment I am just doing cyanotypes, but I do plan on exploring other processes in the future, so the fixed-out photopaper trick is nice to know about. I was following the spray starch method on some Strathmore watercolor paper, but after drying the paper seems to take on an almost greenish tint, which doesn't seem to affect anything. Although, I have noticed that development is somewhat longer, with deeper blues, using spray starch, as opposed to using the paper plain.

I may do some testing on other paper stocks to see which fits my style, and desired outcome, best.

 

[koraks]

I agree with @Vaughn. It depends so much on what process you're talking about. Then it also depends on what look you're after, what kind of raw paper base you're using, what kind of chemical interaction effects you may or may not be having, what the situation is with sensitizer absorption or pigment staining, etc. etc. etc. etc. etc.....

Keep also in mind that sizing is not the only way to do something with surface finish; you could also apply a top coat over your image. Waxing has always been fairly popular, but other top coats are also feasible.

Don't regard sizing as something you have to do because 'people' say so. It's something you use to solve a particular problem or to obtain a particular effect. Nothing wrong with experimentation, but this is a particularly deep hole to fall into if you go into it without any direction.

 

[Howl23]

I agree with @Vaughn. It depends so much on what process you're talking about. Then it also depends on what look you're after, what kind of raw paper base you're using, what kind of chemical interaction effects you may or may not be having, what the situation is with sensitizer absorption or pigment staining, etc. etc. etc. etc. etc.....

Keep also in mind that sizing is not the only way to do something with surface finish; you could also apply a top coat over your image. Waxing has always been fairly popular, but other top coats are also feasible.

Don't regard sizing as something you have to do because 'people' say so. It's something you use to solve a particular problem or to obtain a particular effect. Nothing wrong with experimentation, but this is a particularly deep hole to fall into if you go into it without any direction.

I am aware of waxing with beeswax and lavender oil as a top finish, but what other top coat options are there?

Also, rabbit holes like these are what make me enjoy alt processes so much honestly. There's always something new to discover!

 

[koraks]

You could try gelatin, albumen, gum, any of the (many) varnishes used in painting (e.g. acrylics) and I'm sure many others!

You're absolutely right, be creative! I sometimes like to go to the local arts supplies store (as long as it's there, at least...) and root around for materials. Sometimes something works, sometimes it doesn't, and if it doesn't it tends to come in handy at some other point.
The freedom you have in working with various materials is indeed part of the attractiveness of alt processes.

 

[Vaughn]

Cyanotype in general will need no extra sizing. Some of the problems of alkaline sizing (as well as water too alkaline out of the tap) can be countered by adding a little acid (vinagar) to your development water. So as you experiment with papers, if one paper seems poor, give a little acid a try as part of the experimenting.

Keep an eye out for a lack of sizing -- your cyanotype chemicals will go right thru the paper.
Or too much sizing and the chemicals will not soak evenly into the paper.
Throw a piece of paper in water and see how it handles wet...I liked the old Cranes Cover, but one had to handle it carefully when wet, or it tore.

But it is amazing what you can get cyanotypes on (besides clothes, counters, trays, dogs).

 

[Howl23]

I have heard about using vinegar! Will need to try that next round of printing. I just want to get a consistent coating method down first.

 

[fgorga]

I agree with both @Vaughn and @koraks... adding external sizing to most papers is generally unnecessary unless you want to achieve a specific look for artistic purposes.

Most 'art' papers (i.e. watercolor and printmaking papers) are sized at the mill. However, if you are adventurous and try other type of papers (including many inexpensive papers sold for drawing) you may need to size them... as @Vaughn says, you'll know about these papers as they soak up sensitizer like a sponge.

I also think the same about top coats. They are not necessary unless you are going for the specific look that various materials provide.

I made a few posts here a couple of years ago, regarding cyanotype that you might be interested in, but as noted in these posts I develop my cyanotypes in an unconventional manner... I use 25% vinegar for the first wash. I think that this allows me to a wide variety of papers without worrying about their buffer content.

Here are links to those posts:

Paper for Cyanotype
Effect of Acid on Washing Cyanotypes
Acid Pre-treatment of Paper for Cyanotype

 

[koraks]

Throw a piece of paper in water and see how it handles wet

Yes! In addition splatter some drops of water onto the paper and see hoe they bead. It's the basic principle behind testing the surface energy of the paper, which is one of the main reasons why sizing is (not) done (and how, if so). It's particularly relevant when working with pigment processes such as gum and carbon transfer, but also when working with liquid sensitizers, although in that case absorbance is also a major factor. The science behind sizing is actually pretty darn deep. For the sciene-oriented among us, it's a nice challenge to digest some of it.

 

[Howl23]

Yes! In addition splatter some drops of water onto the paper and see hoe they bead. It's the basic principle behind testing the surface energy of the paper, which is one of the main reasons why sizing is (not) done (and how, if so). It's particularly relevant when working with pigment processes such as gum and carbon transfer, but also when working with liquid sensitizers, although in that case absorbance is also a major factor. The science behind sizing is actually pretty darn deep. For the sciene-oriented among us, it's a nice challenge to digest some of it.

I was not aware of a bead test, that's certainly interesting and sounds like a quick way to test the paper stock. If you recommend any literature on sizing, please let me know! b Being a bit science oriented my self, I'd like to read up on it.

 

[Howl23]

I agree with both @Vaughn and @koraks... adding external sizing to most papers is generally unnecessary unless you want to achieve a specific look for artistic purposes.

Most 'art' papers (i.e. watercolor and printmaking papers) are sized at the mill. However, if you are adventurous and try other type of papers (including many inexpensive papers sold for drawing) you may need to size them... as @Vaughn says, you'll know about these papers as they soak up sensitizer like a sponge.

I also think the same about top coats. They are not necessary unless you are going for the specific look that various materials provide.

I made a few posts here a couple of years ago, regarding cyanotype that you might be interested in, but as noted in these posts I develop my cyanotypes in an unconventional manner... I use 25% vinegar for the first wash. I think that this allows me to a wide variety of papers without worrying about their buffer content.

Here are links to those posts:

Paper for Cyanotype
Effect of Acid on Washing Cyanotypes
Acid Pre-treatment of Paper for Cyanotype

Thank you for sharing your posts! Good reading for this rainy day.

25% certainly seems pretty strong, and based off your results it also has a pretty significant effect. Have you done a panel to test varying concentration of vinegar?

 

[koraks]

If you recommend any literature on sizing

Well, not specifically, but I found Calvin Grier's chapter on it enlightening. It's not scientifically heavy by any means, but touches the essence, I think. His book can be acquired here: https://thewetprint.com/gum/ If you're only looking for a text on sizing, I'm not sure the price point makes perfect sense because he dedicates only one chapter (and lots of cross-references) to the topic of sizing, but if you're interested in pigment processes and gum printing in particular, I really recommend it.