Single Development for Multi-Layer Gum Bichromate prints

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Debanjan

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I have been attempting this approach over the last many months in an off and on manner. I did see the Wet Print videos and the launch of PMF (Print Makers Friend) but am yet to try with that material. I also came across posts in the alt photo listings where it has been mentioned that this approach may be difficult with gum and better with PVOH or PVP.

A recent example of where I did get a passable output with 3 layers on Canson Montval is attached for your reference.

My Question is - has anyone tried this method with pure gum approach? Are the outcomes repeatable / predictable? Any inputs would be helpful.
1745920311584.jpeg

The schema of my approach and some rough calculations are also attached. Special thanks to @Raghu Kuvempunagar for his guidance and inputs.
1745920472516.jpeg


Thanks in advance.
 

AndrewBurns

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I've never tried gum printing, however I do want to try PVOH printing soon using this technique so I have also been doing a little research. My understanding of why this doesn't work so well for gum is because it melts too easily when a new layer is applied on top, so the act of brushing on the new layer is enough to start melting the layer below and then the brush mixes the two layers so you don't get the same distinction between the different pigment loadings that you want.

I'm not sure if there are ways to prevent this with gum, I know in Calvin's gum video for example he talks about having to spray gum (without dichromate) onto the paper using a spray gun to prevent brush strokes from damaging previous layers to give the highest possible quality. I wonder if it's possible to use this spraying technique (presumably brush-sensitising with dichromate after drying) for a monochrome print to build tonal layers. That might stop the layers mixing together as there's no mechanical brushing action any more.
 
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Debanjan

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I've never tried gum printing, however I do want to try PVOH printing soon using this technique so I have also been doing a little research. My understanding of why this doesn't work so well for gum is because it melts too easily when a new layer is applied on top, so the act of brushing on the new layer is enough to start melting the layer below and then the brush mixes the two layers so you don't get the same distinction between the different pigment loadings that you want.

I'm not sure if there are ways to prevent this with gum, I know in Calvin's gum video for example he talks about having to spray gum (without dichromate) onto the paper using a spray gun to prevent brush strokes from damaging previous layers to give the highest possible quality. I wonder if it's possible to use this spraying technique (presumably brush-sensitising with dichromate after drying) for a monochrome print to build tonal layers. That might stop the layers mixing together as there's no mechanical brushing action any more.

Thank you Andrew for your response. I have come across similar comments about the quick solubility of gum which may render this approach unsuitable for gum prints. However, I tend to get confused for the following reasons / observations -

1. In normal Gum Print, there is development after each coat and after the print dries up, it is coated again. Here too, we are coating a dry print which has an underlying hardened gum layer. The same logic would have then rendered multi layer gum prints untenable in the first place - this is one area of confusion.

2. For this approach, I see that the development time after the final exposure is really long. In fact the print I shared had been in the water bath for more than 7 hours while normal gum prints would develop within 30 - 40 minutes in general. Had gum been that soluble, the development itself would have been shorter.

Any thoughts on where my understanding is going wrong?
 

Carnie Bob

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UV light hardens gum when Ammonium Dichromate is added in the correct proportion, For all my work I coat one layer at a time starting with Yellow, then Magenta and then Cyan. I let each processed layer dry overnight before I coat the next layer, and indeed the exposed/ process gum layer does sink into the paper. For my water wash I use 85 degree water warm to the touch and usually I am ready to hang within 5 minutes. I did try coating all three layers once and then expose with subsequent negatives for each colour, It was a complete disaster and I am not sure one would get acceptable results, it is an curiosity and every gum printer should try it once to see for themselves.

Anything longer than 5 min water process IMHO is a waste of time and effort should be done to get the time under 5min... many adjustments could be done and one should experiment.

All my colours wash off the same amount of time with the same exposure which is 1.4 minute using LED box from Cone Editions.

Once I understood the hardening effect of gum/AD/UV and that it was a wash off process and nothing more complicated than that I got much better at making the prints.
 

koraks

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I did try coating all three layers once and then expose with subsequent negatives for each colour, It was a complete disaster and I am not sure one would get acceptable results

For a multicolor print I also don't see how this would ever work. One of the main problems you run into is that you'll wash out one color from underneath another color - not to mention the fact that you can't actually get color separation this way to begin with as all layers will respond to all negatives!

The process may work for monochrome prints where the darkest layer (highest pigment load) is on top and the lightest at the bottom (lowest pigment load) and then expose through 3 different negatives with 3 different times. The 'underwash' problem should not exist in this case, although the (quasi)halftone screen nature of inkjet negatives may still spoil the broth and create problems.

AFAIK for all his multi-layer work people like Calvin coat consecutive layers and to the best of my knowledge this is also what he did for the prints he demonstrated in his Gum printing manual. Layers were brushed (not sprayed) with inert interlayers in-between to counter the problem of pigment bleed and thus get better hue purity/gamut. I know he did write a bit about the hypothetical airbrush spray approach, but ended up not doing that because of the obvious problem with dichromate toxicity (both acute and long-term) which will be a gigantic problem especially with exposure through the lungs. Someone has posted here on Photrio who tried this when he was young and it's kind of a miracle he lives to tell the story.

I can see why exposing everything in one go without wet processing steps in-between would be useful to maintain proper registration. The alternatives are pre-stretching the paper by soaking it a couple of times and hanging to dry in the same orientation before starting the printing process. I vaguely recall you @Carnie Bob once writing that you do it this way; is that correct? I know that's one way Calvin describes it. An alternative approach would be to glue the paper to a dimensionally stable support like aluminum with something like unhardened gelatin. Then go through the entire printing process while keeping the wash water temperature below the melting point of the gelatin, and ultimately releasing the paper from the support by soaking in a warm water bath so the gelatin melts.

One thing to keep in mind as well is that Calvin has written a thing or two about how he develops his gum prints, a process that exploits pH as a variable to make the wash-out process very fast as well as very consistent.

The key question in the end is what problem you're trying to solve; then work out the feasible scenarios to attack it. I'm really not sure if a multi-layer, develop-at-once print is very feasible in a process like this. You end up having to develop (wash out) a fairly thick layer of material, which leaves the remaining image areas very vulnerable and susceptible to washing out. They generally withstand processing a lot better if they're allowed to dry out and properly harden after an initial wash.
 
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Debanjan

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Kolkata, India
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Thank you Bob and Koraks.. I am essentially experimenting with monochrome prints and adopting the same route as explained by Koraks .. My only objective is to see if this is a repeatable way to proceed since at my part of the world, humidity and heat are killers (Tropical portion of India) .. Maybe I would try out some more tweaks and see .. otherwise I will follow the single coat - development route which I anyway follow..
 

Carnie Bob

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I can see why exposing everything in one go without wet processing steps in-between would be useful to maintain proper registration. The alternatives are pre-stretching the paper by soaking it a couple of times and hanging to dry in the same orientation before starting the printing process. I vaguely recall you @Carnie Bob once writing that you do it this way; is that correct? I know that's one way Calvin describes it. An alternative approach would be to glue the paper to a dimensionally stable support like aluminum with something like unhardened gelatin. Then go through the entire printing process while keeping the wash water temperature below the melting point of the gelatin, and ultimately releasing the paper from the support by soaking in a warm water bath so the gelatin melts.


I pre soak my paper for 15 min get thoroughly soaked, then hang in controlled humidity, I have no issues with multiple registration.
I only use Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag.

I did try mounting paper to aluminum, works well for a couple of wettings but starts coming apart after 2 layers.

bob
 

AndrewBurns

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Auckland, New Zealand
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Thank you Andrew for your response. I have come across similar comments about the quick solubility of gum which may render this approach unsuitable for gum prints. However, I tend to get confused for the following reasons / observations -

1. In normal Gum Print, there is development after each coat and after the print dries up, it is coated again. Here too, we are coating a dry print which has an underlying hardened gum layer. The same logic would have then rendered multi layer gum prints untenable in the first place - this is one area of confusion.

2. For this approach, I see that the development time after the final exposure is really long. In fact the print I shared had been in the water bath for more than 7 hours while normal gum prints would develop within 30 - 40 minutes in general. Had gum been that soluble, the development itself would have been shorter.

Any thoughts on where my understanding is going wrong?

Good point, in theory coating over a previously hardened layer should be fine. All I can think of is that if you're coating over a layer that is partially hardened and partially not (as it would be) then the ability of the unhardened emulsion to resist melting might still matter as it's possible that during brushing the new layer and the un-hardened areas of the previous layer could mix together, which would disrupt the differences in pigment loading of the new layer (diluting it with the prior layer) resulting in uneven tones.

Given that your attempt at a multi-layer single-development gum print resulted in such an extremely long development time it does imply that something is going wrong, like a significant amount of gum that shouldn't be hardened is getting some amount of hardening and not washing away as it should. The print also doesn't seem to have the shadow density and dynamic range you'd expect for three layers of different pigment load.
 

AndrewBurns

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198
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
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I've tried it with both gum and PMF. Both were disasters. I was brushing on the layers, which would melt underlying layers. Maybe Calvin's method of spraying works better?

What was your brush technique like? From what I've seen from Calvin's recent video and heard from Kees about Zerochrome SbQ (which is no-doubt similar) you have to brush extremely fast and not do the second-brushing with a hake brush that you'd normally use with gum printing to even out the coating if you want to avoid melting prior layers. I haven't tried this myself yet but I will when my emulsion arrives.

Here's the video I'm referencing for people who haven't seen it:
 
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Debanjan

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May 4, 2010
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Location
Kolkata, India
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35mm
Update:

Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences and thoughts.

I am now confident that this approach will work with gum with some modifications. I will list down what I did and my results below ->

1. Came across literature as well as inputs from @Raghu Kuvempunagar about increased solubility of gum in alkaline bath. Hence decided to use the same as a development bath.

2. To prevent smudging of unhardened gum in layers underneath, I resorted to using a coating rod. That gave me the possibility to draw a 10 micron emulsion over the underlying layers in less than a second. The loss of unhardened gum was thus prevented.

3. Since the alkaline bath will bleach the tones, I have increased the pigment content of the highlight layer (the 1st or base layer) but I think this should / can be increased overall depending on personal taste and the requirement of a specific image.

Below is a sample output which I made a while back. The print is yet to dry fully and hence there are glares from the relatively wet areas. But I did get close what I wanted to achieve. Experiments will continue :smile:

1746112833123.jpeg
 
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Debanjan

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May 4, 2010
Messages
26
Location
Kolkata, India
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35mm
Further update:

I continued fine tuning the multi layer single development gum print over the weeks. I am happy to state that if one employs a coating rod to coat the gum emulsion and control the exposure as I had explained earlier, you can get really good prints. A sample [3 layers gum over Cyanotype base] is given below for your consideration .

1748427498399.jpeg
 
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Debanjan

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May 4, 2010
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Location
Kolkata, India
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That's a fantastic print - regardless of how it was made, but given how you did it, it's even more of an accomplishment!

Thank you... Wish that experts like you would also give it a try someday and highlight areas of improvement in the process...
 
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