Milpool - I find most digital color print options a step backward compared to optimized optical enlargements; and I do know some of the very best digital printers. Even they did better work optically printing it. What can be done using big uber-expensive laser printers in the hands of an expert can come close, but inkjet? - no way. Nobody like Burkett or myself want to go that route.
John - current Fujiflex Supergloss is significantly better than Cibachrome in many respects. Of course, you either have to start with color negs instead of chromes, or generate color internegs (which is getting pretty expensive to do in 8x10 format), or else scan and invert the image, and laser print onto the medium.
As far as Ciba fading goes, it all depends. Sure, there were people who used hot high-UV projector lighting to display them, and were lucky if they lasted 2 years. But I've got my very first one on the wall beside me, which was hung in mountain window light for four decades before I properly salvaged it; and it still looks great, even though the yellow dye has faded a bit. Eventually all the dyes crash, but what leads up to that is largely equal per dye, so there isn't a lot of color shift. Short story - Ciba doesn't like UV. But all the ones I have stored away look like they were made yesterday. Nor do I detect any shift in Cibas displayed under ordinary tungsten light.
But Ciba paper doesn't keep long prior to printing without serious crossover issues. I doubt the last unopened box of 20X24 in my freezer is still any good. In fact, even fresh Ciba would shift over the course of six months or so, and then go bad. Stockpiling it would be futile. Unexposed RA4 media keeps much better, but certainly not indefinitely!