Hi Dave and Jordon
thanks for your help.
But if I look at Ians formual
Part b the toner is a 1-9 dilution from the stock . sodium sulfide is 50grams for the stock to make 1litre which upon dilution makes 9 litres. therefore if I want to make 50 litres of working solution I think I would be mixing 550grams of sodium sulfide to 50 litres of water.
Am I still in possible problem areas for the issues you state?
thanks
Bob
Bob, as both parts of the toning process is to finality you can probably get away with a lot less solution than you think.
I've processed images over 20ft long and all the processing was done by spraying the chemicals, but we did wear airline face masks. So that's not really an option for you.
For your toning use a sponge for both parts, you won't need to use that much bleach or toner that way, possibly less than 5 litres. I've developed and fixed images the same way, and the developing was nice and even.
You could mix 5 litres of each and have water and stock solutions ready to mix more quickly if needed.
Ian
Sponges sound a great idea and simple, just remember to wear gloves!
The insidious thing about hydrogen sulfide (which is evolved from sodium sulfide solutions by slight hydrolysis) is that while it is detectable at small concentrations, it also tends to "numb" the nose over typical exposure times. Combine that with its toxicity (comparable to cyanide gas, as DaveOttawa mentions) and it can be problematic.
The insidious thing about hydrogen sulfide (which is evolved
from sodium sulfide solutions by slight hydrolysis) ...
Why use a toner, why not bleach and redevelop in C41 Chemistry with a dye coupler added. Far more controllable and better stability.
One look at the images in "Dark Summer" Bob Carlos Clarke will make you realise the endless incredible controls of the possibilities available. Admittedly he used Agfa & Tetenal products but it's very easy ton make up similar yourself.
Ian
Ok this sound interesting.
what I like with the bleach/blue toner is that it only attacks the shadows as the sepia and gold have set the midtones and highlights.
Does this redevelopment with dye coupler work the same?
QUOTE]
Hi Bob, just picked up on this.
A problem with all iron blue toned prints is that the longer you wash the more blue leaves the print. One option is to slightly over tone and allow to wash back. However, you are dealing with a sub-archival process. The blue is also affected by the acidity/alkalinity of the wash. Most tap water tends to be slightly alkaline and unfortunately this is where the iron blue is least stable - and most purple. If you make the wash water slightly acid the iron blue tone will be more stable but shifts more towards cyan, which you may or may not want. You can see examples (different toner, but still iron blue) on P. 73 in my toning book.
The chromogenic toner is quite a good idea - more stable too and you can get just about any colour, many more than a metal toner will give, even by mixing/multiple toning. Take a look at P 146 - 151 and see if this might give what you want. You can use the 'normal' bleaches which will not much affect tones you have pretoned with sepia,gold,selenium. Note, there can be 2 bleach stages - see 'second steps' P 148.
best wishes
Tim
You Brits are the best.
Is that all you folks do over there every day, mix up concoctions all day long? Sounds like something out of Harry Potter witches brew.
If I blow up I will squarely blame it on you guys.I better increase my life insurance to take care of Laura,Barney and Lucy.
Bob
Any news on the sponge on sepia method, if so how did it work?
Potter-photography connection trivia of dubious veracity: parts of a Harry Potter movie used Laycock Abbey in England, home of Fox-Talbot as a location (Hogwarts School interiors?)
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