How about mixing an emulsion into silicone?
So I've been looking for an alternative to photoceramics, which processes are pretty complicated. My question now is..
Would RTV (room temp vulcanizing) silicones work to permanently seal away a cyanotype or other emulsions on glass?
From what I read there are many types of silicone, like optical LSR, encapsulation and potting silicone...some that cure at room temperature in hours, some in minutes.
Silicone bonds to glass, and has the benefit of being non-toxic and does not require heat (unless to speed up the process).
Could you seal away an emulsion using silicone without the use of gelatin?
How about mixing an emulsion into silicone?
Anyone tried this route?
I don't know that much. Pretty sure most bond just fine to glass. But don't you want to put them on an emulsion? Then I'd assume you just need to experiment, probably water based is out. Re. longevity, I doubt any of your organic alternatives lasts more than a few years outside (and you've abandoned the inorganic route in the other thread, right?). UV light is one concern, look for something that's made to be exposed to UV. Why would dry times or toxicity be an issue? People lacquer all kinds of things all the time, take the usual precautions.@grain elevator I actually don't know anything about lacquers, do they bond to glass? How do they compare in inertness to glass and silicone for longevity? And dry times, toxicity?
You go through such trouble with the rest of it, then worry about drying times?!?@grain elevator I haven't had the chance to experiment with cyanotype on glass, but I hear you coat the glass in gelatin first and thats it, then develop with water. I was wondering if you could literally just put cyanotype on glass with or without the gelatin layer, then cover it with silicone rubber. I also hear that silicone rubber does indeed last a very long time outdoors and would protect against UV.
I suppose water vs silicone is the biggest issue, unless things are dry.
Only curious about dry times because quicker drying seems less involved. Less toxic seems better for handling, and then less toxic for any chemical leaching if the piece is left outdoors for an extended period of time, like photoceramic gravestone pictures for instance. Siloxanes are not biodegradable, but are pretty much inert as I understand it...
So I've been looking for an alternative to photoceramics, which processes are pretty complicated. My question now is..
@Robert Maxey Oh! I would be very interested in hearing more about this. Would it work on glass, or would the thermal expansion be an issue?
Hmm about the not-good halftones though, I'm looking to aim high on the resolution.
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