Thomas, please note that a traditional commercial safelight is not fully safe and easy way. The traditional saying goes: "there is no safe safelight", and it's quite true, especially when using old technology. Even if you buy a commercial unit, you may and eventually will need to test it. The distance matters, the brand matters (some may be worse than others in filter quality), and the filters fade as time goes by, if they are incandescent/fluorescent based like many or most still are.
I may be repeating myself but I'm really love with LEDs and with a reason. They really don't practically produce wavelengths that would need to be filtered out. They are not perfect at all but every time I've tested leds with BW paper, I get much lower fog than with any commercial darkroom light I've tried. This may be because of filter fade present in the old units.
Thomas, will one of those 'jumbo' red bulbs fit into a typical (e.g. Premier) 5x7 safelight housing? If so, it would be a convenient and neat solution. Yes, do the testing to be sure!
Ted
********Red 25w, unfrosted, incandescent. About 2.5 meters above my head shooting straight upwards and bouncing off ceiling which is atleast 4m high. 5w, opaque, same position fogs nothing - of course I can barely see as well.
*******Make your own from red leds. They don't in practice produce wavelenghts shorter than yellow at all, so you are safe even without any filters. Filters can always fade etc.
If you want to be on super-safe side, use red leds with safelight filter.
This way you can use HUGE safelight levels, probably more than you even want.
I tested 625 nm 1-watt red leds (these: http://cgi.ebay.com/10-PC-1W-StrawH...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a4d73a9f1 ) adjusted to a level that gives an enormous light level never normally needed in darkroom, and still I needed at least 5-10 minutes to show any fog at all. One of these leds is enough for even a larger darkroom, or you can use multiple in many places dimmed down to safe levels. If you don't like wires, you can use them battery-operated since they draw so low current. You won't probably use the whole 1-watt power. I used 600 mW in my test and it was more than ever needed.
******It's not that I thought the safelight was 100% safe - it's that the distance seemed relatively safe. By the time the light banks off the ceiling and hits the paper it's traveled atleast 15-20 ft. It was unsafe enough that it was probably muting my whites causing me to chase brightness around in my prints. Anyways, the 5w will have to do for now but I'm definitely on the hunt for some LED safelights. Thanks for the pointers to that specific LED, hrst.
Wow, 4 pages on safelights. But it seems to me the best solution is to just get one from a place like Freestlye. Its about the cost of a box of paper. (25-35USD). Filters fade with time, and at those prices its like buying a filter and getting the rest of the assembly for free. (a Kodak safelight filter alone is 40-80 USD)
OK. All I know is that the jumbo bulb is safe. I have used it for lith printing about 3 feet above my trays. Some of those prints take 30 minutes to process before I put it in the stop bath. No fog. Zero. None.
It's the only safelight I have ever used. I imagine since it's an item that is replaced once it burns out, the 'filter' that's built into the bulb is replaced at the same time. I can see how the filters used with regular incandescent bulbs or fluorescent tubes could fade with time and become unsafe.
- Thomas
Check out www.superbrightleds.com/specs/E27-W24.htm I've had good luck so far with their red bulbs. They have all the circuitry built in. Just screw them into a fixture. You don't need to build any circuitry at all.
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