Shutter sticks after being outside

[Cybertrash]

I was out shooting with my Speed Graphic and 127mm Ektar in a Supermatic shutter the other weekend. After this the shutter has started sticking every now and, either there's a little delay before the blades open, or they don't open at all, or open unevenly. I suspect this is because of cold (it was around -6 when we were outside), but the camera has been siting indoors for over a week now and the problem persists. What should I do?

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I was out shooting with my Speed Graphic and 127mm Ektar in a Supermatic shutter the other weekend. After this the shutter has started sticking every now and, either there's a little delay before the blades open, or they don't open at all, or open unevenly. I suspect this is because of cold (it was around -6 when we were outside), but the camera has been siting indoors for over a week now and the problem persists. What should I do?

Time for a CLA - clean, lubricate adjust.

 

[MDR]

New lubrication. A short time solution is to put the shutter on a radiator for about 15minutes, the dried lubricants will be liquid again and work. It's better to change the lubricants (suitable for cold weather) though as you will have the same problem again if you use it in the cold.

 

[vysk]

yep, cold froze up the lubricant and it warmed up but solid. Gentle heating might work but only for a short time.

 

[jp498]

The old lubricant's thinner components have evaporated or moved where they are not needed, and the thick cold-sensitive ones remain. Time for a professional cleaning.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

New lubrication. A short time solution is to put the shutter on a radiator for about 15minutes, the dried lubricants will be liquid again and work. It's better to change the lubricants (suitable for cold weather) though as you will have the same problem again if you use it in the cold.

No, don't do that. The OP says that "...they don't open at all, or open unevenly..." which indicates there is probably more wrong than thickened lubricant. Possibly the blades are not engaging properly with the actuating ring, or something was damaged by drag caused by the thickened lubricant.

Do it right, do it once, have a reliable shutter... try home made half-baked repairs and have potential junk. This shutter is nearer 50 than 40 years of age at a minimum, possibly it has never been serviced.

 

[shutterfinger]

I was out shooting with my Speed Graphic and 127mm Ektar in a Supermatic shutter the other weekend. After this the shutter has started sticking every now and, either there's a little delay before the blades open, or they don't open at all, or open unevenly. I suspect this is because of cold (it was around -6 when we were outside), but the camera has been siting indoors for over a week now and the problem persists. What should I do?

The Supermatic came in 3 basic versions, the no flash sync called Supermatic, The flash bulb and electronic flash synced called Flash Supermatic, and the electronic flash synced called Supermatic X. The Flash Supermatic is the most difficult to service and the Supermatic the easiest. On a scale of 1 to 10 of increasing difficulty the Supermatics are a 6.


The service manual for the Supermatic with 127mm Ektar is (was) readily available on line from several manual retailers such as http://craigcamera.com/ item 90518 under reprinted service manuals.

The blades opening unevenly says that the operating pin holes in the blades or controller are worn and the related blades are sticking. Continuing to use in this condition will result in a non working parts shutter.


Service it or have it serviced soon.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Happened to me two years ago, exact same setup and exact same issues.

+1 on the professional CLA. Get'r done.

 

[Cybertrash]

Thanks for all the answers, I suppose I'll have it serviced, it's a shame, a CLA around these parts can cost about as much as a new shutter off of that famous auction site sometimes...

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Thanks for all the answers, I suppose I'll have it serviced, it's a shame, a CLA around these parts can cost about as much as a new shutter off of that famous auction site sometimes...

Which likely will also need servicing.

 

[Cybertrash]

Which likely will also need servicing.

That's a good point, never thought about it that way. Although I'm under the impression that some of the more serious resellers will actually stand by their claim that the shutter has been tested.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

That's a good point, never thought about it that way. Although I'm under the impression that some of the more serious resellers will actually stand by their claim that the shutter has been tested.

It may have been tested and passed the test. Inside, at room temperature, once. Very often though that test is done by ear.

 

[Tom1956]

Which likely will also need servicing.

yep

 

[Kawaiithulhu]

It may have been tested and passed the test. Inside, at room temperature, once. Very often though that test is done by ear.

This is so true! After a couple months of haunting hellbay I've only seen one shutter ever that had actual timing numbers and properly calculated error %percentages, even from those that claim a recent CLA; it's like all the rest copy+paste the "shutter sounds great at all speeds!" script for the descriptions

 

[E. von Hoegh]

This is so true! After a couple months of haunting hellbay I've only seen one shutter ever that had actual timing numbers and properly calculated error %percentages, even from those that claim a recent CLA; it's like all the rest copy+paste the "shutter sounds great at all speeds!" script for the descriptions

Yes, anyone who claims a recent CLA should have the paperwork as proof or it's baloney.
Personally I not only assume that anything I buy (I use mainly pre-1970 gear) will need anything from a thorough CLA to a complete overhaul. In fact I sometimes actively seek items that are not functioning, this way I'm able to get something I could not otherwise afford. I service all my equipment myself.