Shutter options for barrel lenses

[knutb]

Received my new lens today, a JML 209mm f:8 - an impressive piece of glass and steel! The aperture ring is really smooth and there is no signs of use as far as I can tell. This thing has got a real high toys-for-big-boys factor The comments I've read about this lens (here on APUG among others) seems favorable, and the price is quite nice.

But now the question: I need a shutter of some sort, and I was wondering what you folks use on lenses such as this? Mounting it in a 'real' shutter is out of the question. I know about Packard shutters, though I've never seen one. A lens cap is cheap and reliable, but somewhat limited Any other possibilities? I've played with the idea of a home made device; seems like an interesting project... I don't need very short times, about 1/30s would be fine. The lens front diameter is approx. 83mm and the rear diameter about 70mm. Ideas?

 

[Nathan Smith]

Bob Fowler is a good resource on this topic, he has a couple of good articles about Packards on this site.

 

[Smudger]

You could consider constructing a "drop shutter" : essentially a weighted plate with an aperture in it which is held in a track device mounted on the front of the lens.
I believe these were commercially made in the early days of the craft.

 

[jd callow]

If you have (quite) a few bucks burning a hole in your pocket there is SK Grimes:

JML 209 f/8 in Copal 3​

 

[Dan Fromm]

Front-mounting on a large Alphax, Betax, or Ilex is also an option. I shoot a 210/9 Konica Hexanon GRII front-mounted on a Copal #1 on 2x3, no problems but haven't calculated whether it will vignette on 4x5.

Another not too expensive alternative that may go against the grain is to buy a 4x5 Speed Graphic and shoot the lens with the camera's focal plane shutter. But remember that the nicest Speeds, Pacemakers, have a slowest timed shutter speed of only 1/30.

Cheers,

Dan

 

[jimgalli]

I use lots of barrel lenses to great effect. (just ask me ) I actually enjoy the old Packards. So simple. So effective. Efke 25 ASA film is another tool in your box. Or if you're quite adventurous, try some Freestyle APHS ortho at ASA 3. 3 seconds f22 1/2 in sunlight. BTW I tested one of those and found it a contender every bit as sharp as the Hexanon GRII.

 

[Dave Wooten]

will it cover more that 4 x 5 it is an impressive looking lens, especially the rear element.

 

[jimgalli]

If it's like the one I had it will almost cover 10X12". 8X10 is easy for it. It had about 380mm image circle. Sharp all the way to the edge too.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Received my new lens today, a JML 209mm f:8 - an impressive piece of glass and steel! The aperture ring is really smooth and there is no signs of use as far as I can tell. This thing has got a real high toys-for-big-boys factor The comments I've read about this lens (here on APUG among others) seems favorable, and the price is quite nice.

But now the question: I need a shutter of some sort, and I was wondering what you folks use on lenses such as this? Mounting it in a 'real' shutter is out of the question. I know about Packard shutters, though I've never seen one. A lens cap is cheap and reliable, but somewhat limited Any other possibilities? I've played with the idea of a home made device; seems like an interesting project... I don't need very short times, about 1/30s would be fine. The lens front diameter is approx. 83mm and the rear diameter about 70mm. Ideas?

My personal solution is to sew a Polarfleece Sock Shutter - they work great FOR long exposures at small apertures. See:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[medform-norm]

Thornton Pickard curtain shutters are a good option besides the Packards. They come in variable sizes - we just got an 8x10 version to stick on the back of a camera, but there's also types you mount in front of the barrel lens. Or maybe try to find a Luc (type) shutter - to be seen in one of the Meyer catalogues on the cameraeccentric website. These come in variable sizes as well. Bought a large one on the photo fair two weeks ago for 5 euros. Works fine if you have some sense of time - it has to options, 1/30th or B. Pretty thin things, not too heavy and if in good condition pretty reliable.
You would need a Model A, series VII for your lens. All you have to do now is find one
Hope this helps, Norm

 

[Steve Hamley]

And don't forget Luc or Gitzo type front mounted shutters.

Steve

 

[David H. Bebbington]

Similar, I believe, to the Luc or Gitzo type is the English "Day" shutter (made by Thomas Day of Twickenham). This can be front-mounted to a lens or mounted on a panel and then have a lens fitted to it, in each case using a big iris-diaphragm-type lens mount. The shutter is all-pneumatic and has control lever with 3 positions, open all the time, giving an exposure of about 1/40 by a single press of the pneumatic bulb, and staying open as long as the bulb is pressed (speeds as quick as 1/10 possible). I have one of these and it is very handy (it's flash-synchronized too).

 

[knutb]

Thanks for your replies and suggestions! I think my strategy will be looking for some kind of front mounted shutter. As I suspected (and hoped ) there are quite a few alternatives that were unknown to me. In the mean time - to be able to test the lens - I'll follow the "fully manual" route, using the lens cap or maybe a sock shutter (great idea, thanks!). Using slow film helps of course, and so does ND filters (but they must be quite large ). But there are situations where I want a shorter exposure time, so eventually I need a shutter.

Yes, the lens looks impressive, and I'm looking forward to try it out. First thing to do will be fitting it to a lens board. I've got an unused board, but the hole is way too small - it must be enlarged to 85mm...

 

[Struan Gray]

I use a Sinar copal shutter with various barrel lenses. Traditionally seen as a high-end expensive solution, the green Norma-era ones are now quite reasonable. Speeds from 1/60, a pretty large hole (80 mm?? - off the top of my head) and flash sync.

You don't have to have a Sinar camera to use one: they attach with a standard Sinar lensboard/bellows frame clamp. If your front standard is large enough it is quite easy to mount it reversed on an adapter board. Your lenses will need to be in Sinar boards, or you can make/buy an adapter: most of my lenses are on Technika boards.

If you do have a Sinar, you can mount the shutter on an auxiliary standard. This is quite useful with large lenses that project too far out the back of the lensboard or which would be unbalanced if you mounted them on a thread near the rear element. I recently did this with a 14" Verito without any noticeable vignetting (on 4x5).