Should I buy a Pentax Spotmatic or the Pentax K1000?

[ac12]

This is an OLD thread, but for similar questions by anyone.

The thread mounted lens was a PIA to deal with when changing lenses often, and especially if you are trying to change the lens quickly. This was why I switched from a screw mount camera, to a bayonet mount camera.

If you don't change lenses often or are not in a rush, then screw mount is just fine.

Alternatively, get a spare body, and leave a different lens on each body. Example, 35mm on body1, 100mm on body2. That way you may not even have to change lenses. This used to be an extravagent $$$$ idea, but with today's low price of used film cameras, it is now a very reasonable idea.

 

[Jeff Bradford]

Pentax? KX & K2 are both fine cameras.

 

[narsuitus]

I don't know how I missed this thread 8-years ago. Even though the original poster has probably made a decision by now, for those in a similar situation, I recommend the Spotmatics because of their high-quality and reasonable price.

I use the following Takumar lenses; each permanently mounted on a Spotmatic body so I do not waste time changing lenses:
28mm f/3.5
50mm f/1.4 (8-element version)
135mm f/3.5

My 50mm has the reputation for being sharper and more contrasty than the equivalent Zeiss lens.

I cannot comment on the Pentax K1000 because I have never used one.



Pentax Spotmatics by Narsuitus, on Flickr

 

[Neil Grant]

Any M42 lens with the aperture stop down pin, usually marked 'Automatic' somewhere in the description (so not with the Helios 44-2).



Steve.

....perhaps understated in this thread: the earlier m42 lenses can be very 'characterful' and are now becoming quite expensive. I'm talking about well known lenses such as 'Helios 44', Flektogon 35mm, Jena 135mm and no doubt many other personal favourites. The East German lenses often had excellent close-focusing ability. I think one of the best reasons for 'going m42' is these vintage lenses and their unique abilities.

 

[BMbikerider]

There was an advert for Pentax in the 70's which showed a picture of a Spotmatic with the words "Just hold a Pentax". There was no need to embelish it any fiurther! I am now mainly Nikon based but the early Pentax SV right through to my last Spotmatic and they were a delight to use and hold and use.

The Spotmatics are getting quite elderly now so there may be mechanical or metering problems which cannot be repared may crop up. The K1000, KX, KM and K2 may be a better option. Especially the KX. Bayonet lenses are still readily available although the wider angles (20mm) are quite rare. Think also of the MX which is really a KX except it is quite a bit smaller and not so comfortable to hold.

 

[haziz]

There was an advert for Pentax in the 70's which showed a picture of a Spotmatic with the words "Just hold a Pentax". There was no need to embelish it any fiurther! I am now mainly Nikon based but the early Pentax SV right through to my last Spotmatic and they were a delight to use and hold and use.

The Spotmatics are getting quite elderly now so there may be mechanical or metering problems which cannot be repared may crop up. The K1000, KX, KM and K2 may be a better option. Especially the KX. Bayonet lenses are still readily available although the wider angles (20mm) are quite rare. Think also of the MX which is really a KX except it is quite a bit smaller and not so comfortable to hold.

Actually the MX is a delight to hold, and I have large hands. I always prefer small cameras to large ones, and love my Pentax MX and Olympus OM(s). If the MX only had match needle metering instead of those LEDs, it would be perfect.

 

[Ian Grant]

There was an advert for Pentax in the 70's which showed a picture of a Spotmatic with the words "Just hold a Pentax". There was no need to embelish it any fiurther! I am now mainly Nikon based but the early Pentax SV right through to my last Spotmatic and they were a delight to use and hold and use.

The Spotmatics are getting quite elderly now so there may be mechanical or metering problems which cannot be repared may crop up. The K1000, KX, KM and K2 may be a better option. Especially the KX. Bayonet lenses are still readily available although the wider angles (20mm) are quite rare. Think also of the MX which is really a KX except it is quite a bit smaller and not so comfortable to hold.

I have 3 Spotmatics and a couple of S1a's (bought for parts but I fixed them) great cameras but you're right the meters start to play up. My main SLR system for work was K mount initially a Chinon CE4 and CE4s, I needed the power winders, they were stolen and replaced by an MX and ME Super, also a KM,

To get around lens issues I used some Tamron lenses like the 19mm SP and 28mm f2.5, both as good as their Pentax equivalents.

Ian

 

[Steve Smith]

I think one of the best reasons for 'going m42' is these vintage lenses and their unique abilities.

I converted one of my Helios 44 lenses to Nikon mount so now I can use it on an F or my FE2.


Steve.

 

[oreston]

The Spotmatics are getting quite elderly now so there may be mechanical or metering problems which cannot be repared.

In my experience it's quite unusual to find a Spotmatic that is literally beyond repair. Most of the mechanical issues commonly reported are the result of nothing more sinister than dried-up lubricants (which you should expect in a camera that's 40-50 years old) and can be resolved by a CLA. The meters can be troublesome, but malfunctioning ones can be brought back into use by replacing parts - although of course there are no "new" spares and the supply of usable components from abandoned cameras will only diminish over time.
I think it's more a question of whether you feel confident to attempt repairs yourself or can justify the cost of a professional CLA - but the Spotmatic is absolutely NOT particularly prone to irreparable failure.
To put this into some kind of context, the first generation K series cameras (from around 1975-77) shouldn't be any more or less reliable or in need of servicing than a Spotmatic F or SP1000 manufactured within a year or two of them. The last Chinese-made K1000s are "only" 20-odd yrs. old, but they were reportedly built with some downgraded components in the interests of cost and it remains to be seen whether they prove quite as durable as their predecessors.

 

[Steve Roberts]

This is quite a common response given to anyone asking about buying old cameras but I have about thirty between twenty and fifty years old and they all seem to work well. I can't see any reason to send any of them away for CLA.
Perhaps I have just been lucky.
Steve.

+1 If it ain't broke, don't mend it. The only thing I would do as a matter of course is to replace the foam around the rear cover and the foam that cushions the mirror. For what it's worth, I have both cameras but if starting from scratch I wouldn't buy either of them if this was my first excursion into Pentax, largely because neither has a meter switch (the meter is turned on by removing the lens cap) and the K1000 doesn't have DOF preview. I'd go for the SP2 if I wanted screw mount or the KX if I wanted bayonet. The KX has silicon cells rather than CdS, speed and aperture in the v/f, DOF preview, mirror lock-up and delayed action. If any of the above do need a CLA it shouldn't cost a great deal as they are all straightforward to work on.

Steve

 

[flavio81]

I don't know if i've replied before here, but my answer is: Spotmatic by a mile.

Spotmatic is better made than the K1000. The Spotmatic was the top of the range screwmount camera, the K1000 was the bottom of the range K-mount camera.

If one wants a K-mount camera, there are better options, for example the K2, KX, MX, of course LX, and many others.

While if one wants a M42-mount camera, perhaps the finest one is the Spotmatic F.

I own three Spotmatics and in terms of ergonomics they compare favorably to most of my cameras, perhaps all of my cameras? And the Pentax M42 lenses are simply superb.

I also own a K-mount camera, the Pentax P30, chosen because the program mode is very well implemented, and because of its compactness and light weight. I think that this is a good alternative to the K1000 - being far lower priced (nobody wants them), smaller, lighter, while remaining very very usable.

The Spotmatics are getting quite elderly now so there may be mechanical or metering problems which cannot be repared may crop up.

Quite the opposite, they are some of the easiest cameras to repair. I should know, i have repaired about 3 spotmatics. The meters have more chance to work correctly than, for example, the meters on the Nikon F Photomic prisms.

 

[BMbikerider]

[QUOTE="flavio81,

Quite the opposite, they are some of the easiest cameras to repair. I should know, i have repaired about 3 spotmatics. The meters have more chance to work correctly than, for example, the meters on the Nikon F Photomic prisms.[/QUOTE]

The prims meters on Nikons can be repaired and for the work involved it isn't expensive.

http://www.soverf2repair.webs.com/

 

[flavio81]

The prims meters on Nikons can be repaired and for the work involved it isn't expensive.

http://www.soverf2repair.webs.com/

In the case of such Photomics, in some of them the CdS cells age and need replacement. This renders them difficult to repair unless you have the spares. Also, the ring resistor can wear down, in this case you also need spares. Sover has them, I don't.

While on Spotmatics usually what's needed to bring the meter back from the dead is just cleaning contacts...

 

[ac12]

I don't know how I missed this thread 8-years ago. Even though the original poster has probably made a decision by now, for those in a similar situation, I recommend the Spotmatics because of their high-quality and reasonable price.

I use the following Takumar lenses; each permanently mounted on a Spotmatic body so I do not waste time changing lenses:
28mm f/3.5
50mm f/1.4 (8-element version)
135mm f/3.5

My 50mm has the reputation for being sharper and more contrasty than the equivalent Zeiss lens.

I cannot comment on the Pentax K1000 because I have never used one.



Pentax Spotmatics by Narsuitus, on Flickr

Exactly.
Multiple bodies solve the lens changing issue that I had in high school.
Come to think of it . . . hmmm, maybe I need to go shopping again.

 

[oreston]

While on Spotmatics usually what's needed to bring the meter back from the dead is just cleaning contacts...

More often than not this is so and many of the Spotmatics on ebay with non-working or (ahem) "untested" meters can be revived this way. I have very occasionally had problems with the potentiometer under the shutter speed dial which can make the meter needle jumpy. A quick spray with switch contact cleaner (better done with the top cover off) and then working the speed dial a little can help this. The CDS cells can also die on you. Putting in a replacement set isn't difficult (just a couple of screws and one solder joint). It pays to get a few cheap, beat-up spares or repairs bodies to cannibalize. As has been said, these are comparatively easy cameras to maintain.

 

[faberryman]

Before selecting a body, decide what lenses you want, and make sure they are readily available. For example, my first "real" camera (1973) was a Pentax SP500. After having it a year or so, I purchased a 35mm f2.0 Super Takumar. I remember being surprised at how much bigger it was than my 50mm f2.0 Super Takumar. Looking around on eBay, I just noticed that the K-mount 35mm f2.0 SMC Pentax-M is quite a bit smaller. In addition, I think the fastest Pentax 24mm lens in screw-mount is f3.5, whereas a f2.8 is available in K-mount. That is the kind of information that should be considered.

 

[flavio81]

Before selecting a body, decide what lenses you want, and make sure they are readily available.

+1

This is the most important.

Here, for example, it's easier to get interesting (good) M42 lenses than K-mount lenses. In other countries, it can be the opposite.

 

[Pioneer]

It is really hard to go wrong with either camera if you are looking for one. I own a few of each and I use the K1000 far more than the Spotmatic. There really is no rational reason for doing that, but I have owned and used my K1000 SE since 84 so it is a very familiar piece of equipment. That and I never have become comfortable with switching the meter on to get a reading. Additionally, batteries for the K1000 meter are available at almost any grocery or department store in the United States. Unless you buy an adapter then the Spotmatic is a bit problematic.

As for the comment that the K1000 is the bottom of the line K camera, that is strictly because of features. It is an extremely robust camera and will easily last anyone a lifetime with very little maintenance. I am also able to use some extremely good fine glass from the M42 era and the K-mount era. Since the lens is arguably the more important component in your photographs then the K1000 is probably the equal to just about any Pentax camera out there.

Everyone seems to make a big deal about no timer and no lens stop down on the K1000. As for timers, they are available if you really feel you would miss it. They are small and mount to the shutter release button. As for lens stop down, I have never needed it on cameras that have it. In fact, the stop down on my Minolta is so irritating I would disconnect it if I could.

Finally, every meter malfunction with the K1000 I have been faced with to this point has been caused by corrosion. Batteries are typically left in these ccameras way past their replacement date and the corrosion can ruin contacts within the battery chamber as well as effect the wires and contacts on the outside of the battery chamber inside the camera. In reality, no meter is not that big of a deal. Truthfully, I use the in camera meter only with color negative or, sometimes, with black and white. If I am using slide film, or need some pretty exact exposures with black and white, I always use hand held meters and I think many other photographers do as well.

I guess, to conclude my rambling remarks, I choose the K1000 for the battery compatibility and the ability to use K-mount and M42 lenses. But as I said in the opening, both are excellent choices and will almost certainly meet your needs for many years, if not your entire lifetime.

 

[faberryman]

Batteries aren't an issue with the Spotmatic. Although designed for 1.35v mercury battery, they have a bridge circuit and drop the voltage of a 1.5v silver battery appropriately. The meter reads the same with either battery.

 

[Neil Grant]

I converted one of my Helios 44 lenses to Nikon mount so now I can use it on an F or my FE2.


Steve.

How interesting. Was it a difficult conversion? I've got a very nice Helios 44-3, fortunately not a 'fake' one, and a number of Nikon bodies. Part of the charm - albeit limited - of your typical m42 body is that you're back-to-basics: non-working meter (no battery or inaccurate). Oh, and even it it does function you've still got the delights of 'stopped down metering' - enough to put anyone off. I just use a 'hand held', judgement and bracketing.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Batteries aren't an issue with the Spotmatic. Although designed for 1.35v mercury battery, they have a bridge circuit and drop the voltage of a 1.5v silver battery appropriately. The meter reads the same with either battery.

Good to know that. What size modern-day battery will the old Spotmatic take?

 

[Pioneer]

SR41, 399 but an o-ring is needed to hold it in place.

There is also a CRIS H-B adapter that takes 377 batteries.

There was an Energizer E387S that fits the battery chamber perfectly but I can't find it locally at all and am unsure it is even available any longer.

The Wein zinc-air cell works perfectly as well but will need to be replaced each year. This battery has a stable voltage right to the end of its useful life so will give accurate readings until it dies. This is my preferred battery for these older cameras.

 

[ac12]

Theo

I like you signature:
Vladimir Putin and the Russians forced me to buy Exaktas.

I recently bought an Exakta VX1000, to remind me of my first 35mm camera, my father's Exakta. The lefthand film advance and shutter release, confused the other kids in the class who were used to a righthand camera.

 

[flavio81]

Additionally, batteries for the K1000 meter are available at almost any grocery or department store in the United States. Unless you buy an adapter then the Spotmatic is a bit problematic.

This is not true. The spotmatic accepts easily the #312 zinc-air hearing cell, which is really cheap and gives the exact, correct voltage. You just need to keep it centered, which is really easy to do in various ways.

Batteries aren't an issue with the Spotmatic. Although designed for 1.35v mercury battery, they have a bridge circuit and drop the voltage of a 1.5v silver battery appropriately. The meter reads the same with either battery.

This is repeated often, but it is not entirely correct. It is voltage sensitive*, and if you care for very correct exposures you should use a zinc-air battery as i mention above. It will give proper voltage.

* because it relies on a precise voltage to move the meter needle from the resting position to the center position.

 

[Steve Smith]

* because it relies on a precise voltage to move the meter needle from the resting position to the center position.

No. The resting position is the centre position. Correct exposure is shown when equal current flows through both sides of the bridge and zero current flows through the meter. Therefore, it is not voltage sensitive.


Steve.