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Should I buy a light meter for street?

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Thank you very much for the information! I will probably experiment with using sunny 16 for most of the time first
 
jusxusfanatic said:
Should I buy a light meter for street?

I want to buy a voigtlander vc meter, but not sure if I need one for street, as my phone or sunny 16 would work. any suggestions? Thanks
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Sunny16 and it's derivatives are all you need.
 
One incident reading for a reference...and you can shoot for the most of the day.
 
I am sure the OP could afford a modern camera with excellent meter but chose to use a meterless camera. So the fun of having the meterless camera is using it without the meter.
 
Ok I will give you some old school advice from an old school shooter. Pick one film and one developer, get to know it like the back of your hand. A 400 asa film and something like D76 would be a good start. Using a light meter app on your phone meter typical scenes you would usually encounter on the street. Bracket the exposures and then develop. Learn which exposures work the best. Again use the light meter app on your phone for about a month. First guess what the exposure should be and then double check it with your app and mentally cross reference with your film/developer tests. After a very short time you will find you will be within 1/2 of a stop using your brain as the light meter. Delete the app off your phone and then continue using your experience as a guide. This is why pros don't miss shots, they aren't friggen around with light meters, AF points etc etc.

As I walk around doing street photography I will adjust the camera as I go for the correct exposure so when something pops up the camera is already set. All I have to do is frame, focus and push the button. If at all possible I will have the camera focus already set to Hyper Focal Distance if in bright light or high asa. Then all I have to do is frame and expose.

A little frontend work learning your craft will pay big dividends.
 
Chan Tran said:
If I am rich enough to own a Leica I wouldn't mount a meter on its hot shoe. Doing so makes it looks like the Leica is missing important features.
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Well, I do have a Leica MR meter which I suppose would look more "correct", as far as purists are concerned, but it doesn't function. The VC meter is smaller and probably more accurate. It's unobtrusive and has been very handy in situations where the light has been challenging. I'd much rather get close to the correct exposure than have to try to get a good print from a severely under/overexposed negative. And yes, I've used Sunny-16 for over 40 years and have no problems figuring exposure myself if I need to.

It's amusing that people assume Leica shooters are "rich". I paid $550 for mine 10 years ago and it's been used more heavily than any other camera I own. I routinely see digital shooters plunk down a few thousand dollars for the latest new model that has a few more pixels or better video, or the latest lens that supposedly gives a classic "film" look. All they do is worry about the inadequacy of their equipment and wonder why their photos aren't any better. My M2 is a tool that works perfectly for me and has probably given me more value/enjoyment for the cost than anything else I own (except the wife, of course :whistling:)
 
jimjm said:
Well, I do have a Leica MR meter which I suppose would look more "correct", as far as purists are concerned, but it doesn't function. The VC meter is smaller and probably more accurate. It's unobtrusive and has been very handy in situations where the light has been challenging. I'd much rather get close to the correct exposure than have to try to get a good print from a severely under/overexposed negative. And yes, I've used Sunny-16 for over 40 years and have no problems figuring exposure myself if I need to.

It's amusing that people assume Leica shooters are "rich". I paid $550 for mine 10 years ago and it's been used more heavily than any other camera I own. I routinely see digital shooters plunk down a few thousand dollars for the latest new model that has a few more pixels or better video, or the latest lens that supposedly gives a classic "film" look. All they do is worry about the inadequacy of their equipment and wonder why their photos aren't any better. My M2 is a tool that works perfectly for me and has probably given me more value/enjoyment for the cost than anything else I own (except the wife, of course :whistling:)
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The Leica body isn't too expensive but the lenses are. I think the MR meter isn't all that good but I don't think the VC is better either. If I were you I would buy a good spot/incident meter. Use it sparingly. You don't need it for every shot. I don't think the VC meter would give me better exposure than without the meter. Really when it comes to meter I would want the very accurate or none.
 
Sirius Glass said:
I like the Sekonic 308-L which does reflective, incident and flash readings and is small and easily carried.
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This has been a great meter for me.
Super portable, and it is multi-talented.
I sure do not have the experience that a lot of these guys do, but i am glad to have a meter in my camera. I shoot a lot of "Street" and am happy to have a meter. The light Changes endlessly.
From Shadows in doorways to bright sunlight...clouds...reflective surfaces...etc etc.
I guess it depends on what a person means by "Street Photography".
If you are Garry Winogrand, and shooting a lot of people on the move, it helps to settle on a base exposure and then adjust quickly if you think the shot requires it.
But, for me, not all street photography is moving or fast paced.
I think it is great to have the confirmation of a meter, and then go from there. It feels good to know you initial exposure is correct. If time is on your side, why not meter it. How long does it take.....10 extra seconds.?
good luck
 
Although I own several light meters, for street photography I've mostly been using my phone to take readings. The phone app I use for metering also displays a live view of the metered scene, which helps me determine if I need to compensate for the shadows. This neat feature, absent on my dedicated light meters, can be very useful at times.
 
baachitraka said:
One incident reading for a reference...and you can shoot for the most of the day.
Click to expand...

I agree with this.

The aim is to use the meter sparingly. If use it for reference points (shade, indoor lighting etc) and calulate from there on the fly.

This is fast and discrete. You'll also find its gets very easy to outperform reflective meters.

I use an L-308. It's small and has a good display.
 
mynewcolour said:
I agree with this.

The aim is to use the meter sparingly. If use it for reference points (shade, indoor lighting etc) and calulate from there on the fly.

This is fast and discrete. You'll also find its gets very easy to outperform reflective meters.

I use an L-308. It's small and has a good display.
Click to expand...

Simulating shadow illuminance is rather very easy with incident meter. But need an adjustment of one stop or a bit more when doing so...
 
jusxusfanatic said:
Should I buy a light meter for street?
Click to expand...

Yes, you should. It does not weight and it is easy to carry, it's small ... I could put examples in which it is very useful, but basically let's say that sometimes it is the street what moves, not you ... sometimes the viewfinder is out of view, not with you ...

Practice makes perfect, but even being perfect, it's better to have it than to miss it.

Good luck, whatever you decide!
 
If you have to take a meter reading then you have already missed the shot.
 
cliveh said:
If you have to take a meter reading then you have already missed the shot.
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And if you can't judge the light levels before you start, you will miss all the shots.
If the only thing you shoot with a camera is "street" photography, on bright days, there may not be any great benefit from owning and using a light meter.
But if you want to do other things, or want to work under widely varying lighting conditions, a light meter can be very useful.
 
cliveh said:
If you have to take a meter reading then you have already missed the shot.
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One takes the light readings before the photograph, not after.

If I have a built-in light meter I use it, otherwise I use the Sekonic 308-L or the Gossen Luna Pro SBC/
 
faberryman said:
If you have to calculate Sunny 16 then you have already missed the shot.
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not really, you have thought about it before the camera isup to your face, the stop and shutter are already set,
you aren't fumbling with a meter trying to figure out what it says and how to set the camera.
one could easily say " the meter was looked at before and the camera was set" if that is the case disregard what i said.
too many people rely on a gadget instead of using that gadget as a tool to understand what is around them
 
In that case be ready for then next time, but take the lens cap off.
 
jnanian said:
not really, you have thought about it before the camera isup to your face, the stop and shutter are already set,
you aren't fumbling with a meter trying to figure out what it says and how to set the camera.
one could easily say " the meter was looked at before and the camera was set" if that is the case disregard what i said.
too many people rely on a gadget instead of using that gadget as a tool to understand what is around them
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Most reasonable people using a meter take a meter reading and set their camera before they begin shooting, just like the people using Sunny 16. Non-meterers frequently paint those using meters as bumbling five-thumbed idiots who are always futzing with their meters and settings. For every fumbling meter reader, there is also a Sunny 16 user counting down stops on his fingers as the light changes and missing shots.
 
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faberryman said:
Most reasonable people using a meter take a meter reading and set their camera before they begin shooting, just like the people using Sunny 16. Non-meterers always paint those using meters as bumbling five-thumbed idiots who are always futzing with there meters and settings. For every fumbling meter reader, there is also a Sunny 16 user counting stops on his fingers and missing shots.
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i never said anyone was bumbling, i was speaking for my own experience ( unless the meter is ez to read and in a camera ! )
.. but i will take the extra step and i couldn't agree more ... people, in general
are absolutely clueless and aren't very fluid in their thinking ( not just in photography ) and have very little common sense...
 
jnanian said:
... people, in general are absolutely clueless and aren't very fluid in their thinking ( not just in photography ) and have very little common sense...
Click to expand...
I hold photographers (and people in general) in higher regard. There are always exceptions.
 
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