Shot my first roll with the 503CXi - now what?

[André E.C.]

I think this is a loading problem, are you sure you haven`t exposed the paper backing?
Even if you hadn`t slip the film under the metal clamp and therefore uneven spacing, bad frame positioning could happen, blank negatives you wouldn`t have.
Rethink your loading procedure.

Cheers

André

 

[copake_ham]

At this point - I'm leaning to the explanation "operator error"!

Several good points made and notes taken (including via PM). Particularly the note that I should have at least seen frames. Unfortunately, I left the film strip with the shop to hold pending inspection of the camera so cannot post an example.

Unfortunately tomorrow's early weather forecast here is for a deluge - but they hold out hope for some clearing late in the day.

This time, I'll be very careful how I load and give it another try with the recommendations here in mind.

Oh, and this time I'll shoot some Ilford XP-2 and take it to a different place for processing!

EDIT: Yep, reviewing the film loading procedure I think I blew it the first time! Oh well, every mistake is a learning experience!

Will try again, weather permitting!

 

[Glenn Mathison]

Easy enough to do...

At this point - I'm leaning to the explanation "operator error"!
EDIT: Yep, reviewing the film loading procedure I think I blew it the first time! Oh well, every mistake is a learning experience!

Will try again, weather permitting!

A few years back, when I first went to 120 on my Mamiya645 , I loaded a roll backwards on about the 3rd or 4th roll. Should have known what I was doing by then, but there you go.

Was given a 503CW by my wife for my birthday back in June. I am certain, as has been suggested, that once you get your first roll back you will go W O W ! ! ! or similar. I hope it's soon for you

Regards
Glenn

 

[jamie]

Here's a website that shows you how to correctly load the back. It's german but I think the pictures are self explanatory: http://www.stefanheymann.de/501cm/filmeinlegen/index.htm

As far as labs are concerned. I'm really happy with a new pro lab I found. It's just 5-10 minutes away from where I live. They're all analog and don't do digital at all. And the best thing is they do E6 in one hour.

 

[gr82bart]

The shop I brought them too (on 10/16) sent them to the Great Yellow Father for processing (even though the Green Giant of the East had made the film).

? All the labs I go to, especially in NYC turn around development, contact sheet and CD of low res scans within 24hours. And they do it on site.

What lab did you send it to? I wouldn't go there again.

Regards, Art.

 

[gr82bart]

Well I got the film back and it was a disaster. No images, frames or anything. Thinking at the shop is that the camera has a light leak - but I'm not sure if that's the case.

You mentioned that you got no frames. I assume you meant that you didn't get the register numbers and the words "Fujifilm" or "Fuji" and other words along the edge of the film roll? If so, was the roll all clear or all dark?

For negative film:
If all clear than it appears that the entire face of roll was exposed to light. If all dark it 'could' be a processing error? I dunno.

Even if you didn't load the film correctly and exposed the paper back, you would still get frames. The images would be dark - underexposed.

If you placed the film over the metal tabs instead of under, you would still get frames. The images would be there, but your registration would be wildly inconsistent.

If the shutter is not opening - guess what? You'd still get the frames. Same as exposing the paper.

Light leak - you'd get partial images in a 'wavy' like pattern starting on one edge only since the leak would be from the one edge.

Since everything to do with air travel is bad on APUG, if your roll was exposed to X-rays - a lot X-rays, you'd get a haze or fog across the entire roll.

How do I know? Let's call it trial and error!

Regards, Art.

 

[arriflex]

Removed this post because I'm told it has nothing to do with the thread.

 

[André E.C.]

Junk, erase it!

I've scanned loads of my 120 negs and transparancies using an Epson 4990 flatbed scanner. This machine is top dog for scanning prints and negs/ trans up to size 10x8 inches. Take a look at this picture scanned from a 120 tranny. It's big and before you look it's of a topless girl. Hope it's not illegal for this forum but it's a nice pic I think. http://www.atvlondon.net/images/rac001.jpg

And what the heck this have to do with the ongoing thread?

JUNK!

Cheers

André

 

[arriflex]

Sorry I thought the original question was about scanning 120 negs as he only had a Nikon 35mm scanner. Take a look back at the original question muppet!

 

[André E.C.]

Sorry I thought the original question was about scanning 120 negs as he only had a Nikon 35mm scanner. Take a look back at the original question muppet!

"So with great fear and trepidation this 35mm'er finally got up the courage to load the "new" Hassey with film and shoot out a roll.

I used Fuji Pro 160. Yes, color stuff - sorry, old habits die hard - but it was the last weekend up here for Autumn colors.

So now, when I bring it in to be developed, what do I ask for?

Do they know what size prints to make w/o my specifying?"


Who`s the muppet here?

Nobody called you names, be cool boy!:rolleyes:


Cheers


André

 

[arriflex]

""You see, with 35mm I often just get "develop-only" and do a scan. But I cannot scan 120 with my current Nikon scanner. "

You forgot to mention this in your quote Andre.

 

[André E.C.]

""You see, with 35mm I often just get "develop-only" and do a scan. But I cannot scan 120 with my current Nikon scanner. "

You forgot to mention this in your quote Andre.

No, I just don`t see a question mark there, I assume he is just telling us that fact, therefore, the original question isn`t about scanning.

Cheers

André

 

[gr82bart]

I've scanned loads of my 120 negs and transparancies using an Epson 4990 flatbed scanner. This machine is top dog for scanning prints and negs/ trans up to size 10x8 inches. T

What does this have to do with this thread?

Sorry I thought the original question was about scanning 120 negs as he only had a Nikon 35mm scanner.

The original question was about what he needed to do next with his exposed film and then subsequently what went wrong.

Take a look back at the original question muppet!

Oiy. Name calling on the net. Very original.

Regards, Art.

 

[arriflex]

No you're dead right. I'll keep quiet and delete my part of this thread. However I usually find that most people will try and put their views to different parts of an original posting. Which is what I thought I was doing but obviously there isn't enough space on here to do this.

 

[BrianShaw]

If the shutter is not opening - guess what? You'd still get the frames. Same as exposing the paper.

How's that Art? No shutter opening = no light. No light = no frames. Edge markings, yes, but no frames.

 

[BrianShaw]

Here's a website that shows you how to correctly load the back. It's german but I think the pictures are self explanatory: http://www.stefanheymann.de/501cm/filmeinlegen/index.htm

Very nice site, Jamie. I hadn't seen this one before.

One interesting (at least, interesting to me) observation. Almost none of the avaialble documentatin on loading Hassy backs (whether this site or the factory booklet) seem to remind folks that they probably will have to move the spool to the take-up position. The spool is generally depicted already in the take-up position. Do most people move the spool after unloading the exposed film from the back, versus just before loading?

 

[André E.C.]

Do most people move the spool after unloading the exposed film from the back, versus just before loading?

I move the spool right after I take the exposed film off, others might do it only when loading!

Cheers

André

 

[gr82bart]

How's that Art? No shutter opening = no light. No light = no frames. Edge markings, yes, but no frames.

Well, I think he meant frames=edge markings, so that is what I was going wih. You're right, no frames. My bad.

Regards, Art.

 

[Tom Stanworth]

Isn't it obvious? Sell it and get something 'better'.

 

[gr82bart]

Isn't it obvious? Sell it and get something 'better'.

Such blasphemy! Didn't your Mom make you wash your mouth with soap and water?

Regards, Art.

 

[jamie]

One interesting (at least, interesting to me) observation. Almost none of the avaialble documentatin on loading Hassy backs (whether this site or the factory booklet) seem to remind folks that they probably will have to move the spool to the take-up position. The spool is generally depicted already in the take-up position. Do most people move the spool after unloading the exposed film from the back, versus just before loading?

This is true and I think it's one of the biggest reasons why people get confused when loading a Hasselblad back for the first time.
I don't know about others but I always move the spool right before putting in a new one so this definitely is part of my loading process.

 

[THardy]

I had a blank roll of 120 (color I think) film come out completely clear several years ago. At the time Wolf camera had a prolab in my town. I posed this same question to the Rollei list-serve at the time and speculation was that the film was loaded wrong, didn't go through the camera, or was dev in the wrong soup, such as C-41 film being placed in E-6 or Black and white chemicals. I never figured out what happened.

I recently got a Hasselblad and I'm too waiting for some developed film. After reading so much about the difficulty of using a hassy and especially loading one I was pleasently surprised to find that it was pretty easy to load (fingers crossed hoping my first roll is ok).

My question, is the film clear?, I mean transparent (nothing at all exposed) remember a certain amount is obviously exposed just from unspooling the roll to load it! At least the "leader" should be black. ...er orange.

 

[Bromo33333]

Hasselblads are rather fussy cameras - I PM'ed George yesterday about something that may be an issue (Sorry for not phoning when I said I would - I got tied up in real life and unable to get home before 10PM! )

Anyway, since others are here, I will repeat what I PM'ed.

Compared to a lot of other cameras, the Blad opens the rear shutter, fires the shutter in the lens the closes the rear shutter - and you have to have your finger depressing the trigger the entire time or the rear shutter may not open and close properly - in fact it may close before th shutter in the lens fires.

Also, the body and the lens shutter both have to be cocked when you put the lens on the body (well, they need to be in the same state) or it will jam (it is difficult but not impossible to un-jam the camera.

When people who use them, don't like Hasselblads, it is because of this sort of thing - they are very particular about how to use them.

Good luck!!

 

[BrianShaw]

Compared to a lot of other cameras, the Blad opens the rear shutter, fires the shutter in the lens the closes the rear shutter - and you have to have your finger depressing the trigger the entire time or the rear shutter may not open and close properly - in fact it may close before th shutter in the lens fires.

Only a factor with long exposure times, not with shutter speeds > 1/8 second. The CF (and newer) lenses indicate this on the shutter speed dial with an orange bar to remind the user to hold the shutter release until the shutter has fired.

 

[NikoSperi]

...remember a certain amount is obviously exposed just from unspooling the roll to load it! At least the "leader" should be black. ...er orange.

Nope. The "leader" in 120 roll film is paper, not film like with 35mm cassettes.