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Shipping/Mailing prints

Puddle

Puddle

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Jim Fitzgerald

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
1,799
Location
Ventura, Ca
Format
ULarge Format
I have always been curious about how everyone who sells their prints, ships them. I should say how you package them. The materials you use and the steps you take to make sure your art gets to the purchaser in one piece. Do you do it yourself or do you use a professional packing source. What to you do when you have to ship mounted 22x28 mats. Is it easier to have someone else do it? Love to hear everyone's take on this. Thanks.


Jim
 
Hi Jim,
I compared the Ups store and other shippers for equivalent quality packing that I could do myself and unless I'm really rushed with too many orders, I do it myself.
I get all my boxes and padding materials in bulk from Uline.com. All my prints are flat mounted up to 26x30.
The same box/materials approach is used for all sizes.
I put the print into a clear-bag and seal the flap.
Then sandwich it between two cuts of cardboard padding sheets, taped across the outside edges.
Then wrap that all in one layer of bubble bag.
All that adds about 2 inches length in each direction.
I use the Fedex and Ups merchant accounts and they pick up from my shop.
I've never had one returned for damage.
Hope this helps.
DT
 
Jim,

Take a look at uline.com, the web site for Uline, Shipping Supply Specialists. They have boxes and mailers in just about every size. Most orders require the purchase of a bundle of 20. The Jumbo Mailers (item s-3656 have an inside deminsion of 30x24 and you can vary the depth from 1 to 6 inches. Price $2.95 each.
 
The safest and most economical way to ship them is rolled in a tube. For real safety a pvc tube. That has the drawback of rolled prints which can be fixed with a de-roller if available. Shipping them flat runs the risk of them being folded. Flat boxes are less common. Large flat boxes will run into dimensional weight issues (when over 3 cubic feet) where you are charged for the size of the box instead of the actual weight of the box. No matter what there is some risk of damage and loss so insurance is something to consider.
 
Thanks to everyone for the great answers and the sources. This is what I needed. I will be shipping matted prints so the rolling is out. DT, thanks for the specifics. I like to do everything myself and unless I get to many orders( One can hope) I'll do it myself.

Jim
 
I use the pink Owens Corning Foamular insulation panels, cut a bit bigger than the matted prints I am shipping. Put two together and tape all around and you have a protected package you can't bend and it is lightweight as well. If you want a bit more protection cut it 2 inches larger all the way around and use a middle layer with an opening the size of your mounted print.

Either the pink Owens Corning in one inch or thicker or the similar blue stuff(another company). Both tape very easily and are almost impossible to ram a blade through. Gives great protection and are the lightest materials available that provide rigid protection of your prints. If you tape with good packing tape they are even watertight.
 
I use the pink Owens Corning Foamular insulation panels, cut a bit bigger than the matted prints I am shipping. Put two together and tape all around and you have a protected package you can't bend and it is lightweight as well. If you want a bit more protection cut it 2 inches larger all the way around and use a middle layer with an opening the size of your mounted print.

Either the pink Owens Corning in one inch or thicker or the similar blue stuff(another company). Both tape very easily and are almost impossible to ram a blade through. Gives great protection and are the lightest materials available that provide rigid protection of your prints. If you tape with good packing tape they are even watertight.

I will check this out also. Thanks.


Jim
 
. You can try Strong box or other of thier product https://airfloatsys.com/ . I receive a print in it and it really look professional and protect the print perfectly. as it a little expensive it also depend on you selling price; you can even use it many time .
By the way you can do similar box with out the foam but that's time consuming
 
I ship print sales the same way Michael and Paula do. The print goes into a clear bag and is taped into a corrugated cardboard sandwich a little larger than the matted print. That is taped into a 1/4" luan plywood sandwich which is then wrapped with kraft paper. The whole assembly takes about 5 minutes to put together. As far as I know, there hasn't been a damaged print in the 25+ years Michael has been sending prints that way.

We were rolling Paula's big platinum prints in tubes and they were damaged in the tubes, and now we also send those between larger pieces of 1/4" plywood.
 
Flat boxes are available under a description something like 'One Piece Folding' boxes.

Check someone like U-Line for reference.

I second wooden sandwich packaging. I have gotten things in Masonite. Not sure if it's cheaper or more expensive than Luan.
 
We get our pads from a local company, but I know they are also available from places like uline and chiswick. The great thing about the local is you can go in and order oddball sizes with out those "custom" order fees.

Masonite is heavier than luan and costs more to ship (and I think it is more expensive to buy also). When I go to the lumber yard to get the boards we use for shipping I get the lightest color I can find—anything to save weight because the cost of shipping in the last few years has gone through the roof. That isn't really much of an issue if you are sending only 1 or 2 prints a year, but it adds up if there are lots of prints going out the door.
 
If you prefer tubes, we have an artist who procures empty carpet roll cores from carpet stores and cuts them to length. They are very thick walled, and larger diameter (less curling when removing.)

When I DO tube something (usually just posters), I roll it with a sheet of paper to a diameter small enough that the recipient can remove it safely without butchering it - you better make it foolproof - then safely pad both ends.
 
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