Rodinal 1:50, tap water stop, Tetenal fix 1:4.Check the negatives for pin holes in the emulsion.
What developer, stop and fix formulas are you using?
I am asking because it could be emulsion blisters from some imbalance in one of the above.
Have you checked your negatives with a loupe for holes in the emulsion?Rodinal 1:50, tap water stop, Tetenal fix 1:4.
If you can scan and post pictures that would help diagnose the problem. There were backing paper issues with some Ilford 120 films.
White on the neg black on the print.
Dust on the film during exposure produces black spots, pinholes in the emulsion also produce black spots in a print. White spots are generally debris introduced during processing or drying.
I use de-ionised.Dirty tap water could be the cause. Try filtered water to mix your developer.
Hasselblad 500c/mIf it's a folding camera, this could also be dust from the bellows, stirred up by opening and closing.
Good idea!If you can scan and post pictures that would help diagnose the problem. There were backing paper issues with some Ilford 120 films.
I've shot transparency, sent to a lab and they've come back clean so it's not the camera. How would dust during drying appear white on the negative? Surely it would be black or dark, at least?Dust on the film during exposure produces black spots, pinholes in the emulsion also produce black spots in a print. White spots are generally debris introduced during processing or drying.
Squiggly lines are likely dust, and IME it usually comes during drying. Round spots might be dust too, or else stuff in the water.
I've cleaned the camera thoroughly and in the past have shot transparency and they've come back clean from the lab. I'm wondering if it's the fix as I use it for up to 6 rolls of 120. I mix it with de-ionised water but next time I will filter it with both a funnel sieve and cotton pad incase there's sediment that is causing the problem.OP says white/clear on the neg, black on the print. If they're perfectly round, pinholes, otherwise (and especially the hair-like bits) dust at exposure time.
By "white on the negative" I'm assuming you mean "clear (spots) in the negative".I've shot transparency, sent to a lab and they've come back clean so it's not the camera. How would dust during drying appear white on the negative? Surely it would be black or dark, at least?
Yes, and sometimes small hair-like squiggles and rough edged larger clear spots. Both shot in near identical conditions.By "white on the negative" I'm assuming you mean "clear (spots) in the negative".
There may be circumstances where some films are more likely to attract dust than others.
More interesting though, is there a temporal difference. For example, are the dusty films shot at one time, and the transparency films shot at a distinctly separated time?
Humidity (or the lack of it) can make a huge difference when it comes to dust.
Right. I've been using compressed air around the interior and a blower brush. I'm surprised more MF owners haven't encountered the same issue.In defense of your fixer -- I've got a jug of Kodak Rapid Fixer that I mixed in June; I've probably processed twenty rolls in that 2L amount. Clearing time is still under a minute, and I've never seen any evidence of problems due to particles in the fixer.
What you describe is classic dust. I get it from time to time, worst in my 1927 Voigtlander (6x9 folder). It will only make those clear spots on the negative if it was present during exposure. The spots would be black on a transparency, so much less noticeable.
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