Share your secrets for handheld TLR portraits...
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I would think it mostly boils down to attention to detail, the same as any other camera.
An easy to forget gotcha with the Mamiya TLR lenses, and many other shutters from a similar era, is the flash setting: Electronic or flashbulb 'kind of makes a difference'. Plus whether it actually works is probably a good thing to double check before hand. Mine are glued in place, while it might be fun to play with flashbulbs I can't say I have any strong desire to deal with what's left of old stock at this point.
Good handling of the camera is always important with any camera when handholding, obviously, and a stable stance always helps. An adjustable neck strap is a very handy thing I've found - I tend keep my C330f supported by bracing it against my chest, my left hand pointing/adjusting/steading the camera while the shoulder straps ideally take most of the actual weight. However I sometimes get lax with adjusting the strap and taking the slack out, and then just let the left hand do everything anyway. Right hand then mostly just helps steady and control vertical alignment.
Personally I haven't really settled on using my left index finger on the lower shutter release, or my right thumb on the side/front slider button, but I'm still getting to know the camera.
However, as with any gear, hold and steady as what works comfortable for you - No sense trying to emulate another person's preference if it doesn't work for you.
Firm smooth motion on the shutter release has been very important. - I've found my Mamiya TLR gear can get into a condition where an overly soft or slow press may result in unreliable shutter tripping. One of my lenses is not the smoothest operating at this point, and there is this very tiny narrow spot on the shutter button that will cause it sort of sound and feel like I've tripped it, but it hasn't actually. Doesn't take a lot of noise around you to make that leaf shutter hard to hear clearly, but making sure I follow through on the shutter press makes it a non-issue.
I don't find parallax to be much of an issue, other than being mindful of how close in I'm focusing and how far down the needle is showing. If I'm in suspect lighting I'll slide the camera up and down a bit to check that I'm not getting weird lens flair or oddities in the background. My general flow runs along the lines of:
- Rough frame the image
- Focus
- Check parallax/exposure compensation meter - For portraits on black and white film it generally isn't enough that I even bother adjusting exposure
- Refine framing, accounting for parallax as needed
Beyond that, it comes down to fine details and what exactly you're looking for. Personally I feel that whether or not you use a folding light reflector or something probably has a far bigger overall impact on portraits than whether you were using a Mamiya TLR vs any other 6x6.
Good luck, have fun. And I'm interested to hear what others have to share on the subject.
An easy to forget gotcha with the Mamiya TLR lenses, and many other shutters from a similar era, is the flash setting: Electronic or flashbulb 'kind of makes a difference'. Plus whether it actually works is probably a good thing to double check before hand. Mine are glued in place, while it might be fun to play with flashbulbs I can't say I have any strong desire to deal with what's left of old stock at this point.
Good handling of the camera is always important with any camera when handholding, obviously, and a stable stance always helps. An adjustable neck strap is a very handy thing I've found - I tend keep my C330f supported by bracing it against my chest, my left hand pointing/adjusting/steading the camera while the shoulder straps ideally take most of the actual weight. However I sometimes get lax with adjusting the strap and taking the slack out, and then just let the left hand do everything anyway. Right hand then mostly just helps steady and control vertical alignment.
Personally I haven't really settled on using my left index finger on the lower shutter release, or my right thumb on the side/front slider button, but I'm still getting to know the camera.
However, as with any gear, hold and steady as what works comfortable for you - No sense trying to emulate another person's preference if it doesn't work for you.
Firm smooth motion on the shutter release has been very important. - I've found my Mamiya TLR gear can get into a condition where an overly soft or slow press may result in unreliable shutter tripping. One of my lenses is not the smoothest operating at this point, and there is this very tiny narrow spot on the shutter button that will cause it sort of sound and feel like I've tripped it, but it hasn't actually. Doesn't take a lot of noise around you to make that leaf shutter hard to hear clearly, but making sure I follow through on the shutter press makes it a non-issue.
I don't find parallax to be much of an issue, other than being mindful of how close in I'm focusing and how far down the needle is showing. If I'm in suspect lighting I'll slide the camera up and down a bit to check that I'm not getting weird lens flair or oddities in the background. My general flow runs along the lines of:
- Rough frame the image
- Focus
- Check parallax/exposure compensation meter - For portraits on black and white film it generally isn't enough that I even bother adjusting exposure
- Refine framing, accounting for parallax as needed
Beyond that, it comes down to fine details and what exactly you're looking for. Personally I feel that whether or not you use a folding light reflector or something probably has a far bigger overall impact on portraits than whether you were using a Mamiya TLR vs any other 6x6.
Good luck, have fun. And I'm interested to hear what others have to share on the subject.
Is there really any secret particular to TLR cameras?
The C330 and other Mamiya TLRs are really simple to use.
The only "secret", peculiar to medium format, is that depth of field is narrower than what it appears to be on the viewfinder, due to increased expectations regarding resolution.
MattKing
Moderator
The left hand trigger grip really helps.
Depending on your preference, the prism finder might also help.
If you are used to using an SLR, you should re-train yourself to keep watching the subject right through the actual exposure.
Depending on your preference, the prism finder might also help.
If you are used to using an SLR, you should re-train yourself to keep watching the subject right through the actual exposure.
I don't do many portraits, but I'm told that the generally lower position of a TLR can result in some unflattering views of nostrils. 
Another TLR gotcha to remember: Filters and such, and the fact that you're not looking through the taking lens. Which can be a 'minor little detail' that is easy to overlook if you're more familiar with SLR usage.
Do remember to look at the taking lens and double check it now and then. You're rather unlikely to do something silly, such as forget to take the lens cap off - that can be easier to do with some rangefinder bodies I've handled, but that sure doesn't stop you from failing to notice that a spot of mud or something has somehow found its way onto your lens and you've taken an unknown number of frames with it there.
Also kind of easy to forget which filter you may or may not actually have on the taking lens. Not the end of the world if you adjust your exposure thinking you have a light yellow on rather than a mid-dark red when shooting black and white film, but I'm assuming this is the kind of thing I'll eventually do should I ever start adding rolls of colour film to my gear bag.
But the flip side of that coin: You can leverage filter usage without impacting your viewing lens, and thus filter usage doesn't reduce your ability to focus easily or rob you of any light. It does however still fail to offer visual warnings on things like filter related reflection/flair. Plus you'll need to account for that variable yourself if you use the metered viewfinder. (Never actually came across anyone using the meter in that view finder now that I think about it, and only ones I've seen for sale so far have been flagged as non-functional, but I assume working examples in use exist out there, somewhere... Maybe?)
Do remember to look at the taking lens and double check it now and then. You're rather unlikely to do something silly, such as forget to take the lens cap off - that can be easier to do with some rangefinder bodies I've handled, but that sure doesn't stop you from failing to notice that a spot of mud or something has somehow found its way onto your lens and you've taken an unknown number of frames with it there.
Also kind of easy to forget which filter you may or may not actually have on the taking lens. Not the end of the world if you adjust your exposure thinking you have a light yellow on rather than a mid-dark red when shooting black and white film, but I'm assuming this is the kind of thing I'll eventually do should I ever start adding rolls of colour film to my gear bag.
But the flip side of that coin: You can leverage filter usage without impacting your viewing lens, and thus filter usage doesn't reduce your ability to focus easily or rob you of any light. It does however still fail to offer visual warnings on things like filter related reflection/flair. Plus you'll need to account for that variable yourself if you use the metered viewfinder. (Never actually came across anyone using the meter in that view finder now that I think about it, and only ones I've seen for sale so far have been flagged as non-functional, but I assume working examples in use exist out there, somewhere... Maybe?)
Well Annie Leibovitz uses a Gowlandflex 4X5 TLR which certainly must be heavier than the Mamiya.
http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Annie_Leibovitz
I own a C33 and it still would not be my choice for handheld use. Sorry but most people do not have arms like Popeye The Sailor Man. My choice would be a Rollei as it is far lighter and still has a very good lens.
http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Annie_Leibovitz
I own a C33 and it still would not be my choice for handheld use. Sorry but most people do not have arms like Popeye The Sailor Man. My choice would be a Rollei as it is far lighter and still has a very good lens.
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TheFlyingCamera
Membership Council
I use Rolleis for handheld portrait work. Since you're shooting a Mamiya, I would definitely look into a longer lens (150 or 180), and an eye level prism, while very bulky on a Mamiya, would be of real benefit if you're shooting head-and-shoulders or tighter portraits.
I used Mamiya C33 mostly for handheld portraits. From group portraits to close-up face only portraits. Nothing special was required, except sunny day or bright evening and ISO 400 film.
C33 portraits, lens and film info are on Flickr.
PwithP by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Untitled by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Sunshine. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Portrait with glasses. II. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
C33 portraits, lens and film info are on Flickr.
PwithP by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Untitled by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Sunshine. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Portrait with glasses. II. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr- Joined
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my secret when using a yashica 124matG and later a rolleicord was the make sure the camera was level
and practicing the shutter release so the camera didn't jostle
with the yashica it as also a secret to have a long PC cord and an off camera flash that i could hold
or mount/put someplace so i could hand hold and use a flash without it being the standard flash mounted on next to
or ontop of the camera. ... also stepping back and allowing the subject to be part of its environemnt was another "trick" so it wouldn't
be too close or tight or cropped. using high res film was helpful too incase i needed to crop something i no longer wanted in the view.
( but this is what i do with every format i use, not just a tlr )
ymmv
and practicing the shutter release so the camera didn't jostle
with the yashica it as also a secret to have a long PC cord and an off camera flash that i could hold
or mount/put someplace so i could hand hold and use a flash without it being the standard flash mounted on next to
or ontop of the camera. ... also stepping back and allowing the subject to be part of its environemnt was another "trick" so it wouldn't
be too close or tight or cropped. using high res film was helpful too incase i needed to crop something i no longer wanted in the view.
( but this is what i do with every format i use, not just a tlr )
ymmv
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My secrets with the C33 are to 1)shoot with it on a neck strap cinched up so it rides high enough to just bend my neck to focus and 2) use a short cable shutter release. This way it's just hanging against my chest with no hands touching the camera to induce shake.
I have never tried that! Sounds very interesting since I have hand tremors. Of course, I have slight body tremors too, but maybe eliminating one source of tremors might just help.
Great ideas for me to steal!
I learned the hard way about making sure the taking lens is clean and clear. My first roll through my C330 came back with a big hair or thread intruding into most of the frames. I shot the entire roll in a few minutes and never noticed it until after development.
I learned the hard way about making sure the taking lens is clean and clear. My first roll through my C330 came back with a big hair or thread intruding into most of the frames. I shot the entire roll in a few minutes and never noticed it until after development.
Gerry, you may need to work out now and then. Although my C330S is 500 grams lighter than your C33, so maybe you already are.
Seriously the 330 is just not very heavy unless a person only shoots 35mm before trying it. I'm used to 4x5 so its really nothing to me. And I love my spinach but I'm no popeye
Ahh but I didn't say medium format I said medium format TLR.
I think there are things unique to using TLR. Unless you use a prism you aren't even looking at the subject when you pull the shutter. Nobody has mentioned it so maybe I'm wrong but I would think this has some bearing on how people present themselves to the camera. But it certainly requires a different set of considerations for the photographer. You may not notice low-flying birds coming at your head for example.
It definitely changes how people work on the other side of the lens. You can experiment by using a 35mm camera with a WLF on it, same effect.
Any camera,any type whenether I take a picture part of the deal is to hold my breath, not applicable while purposely taking a fast blurry images.
When using a Rollei type camera for portraits I often get asked "which lens do I look in ? "
Nearly forgot only done handheld TLR and always find my subjects get impatient so talk to them and tell them a quick funny joke or comment just before you press the shutter if looking for a smile/laugh in the photo.
When using a Rollei type camera for portraits I often get asked "which lens do I look in ? "
Nearly forgot only done handheld TLR and always find my subjects get impatient so talk to them and tell them a quick funny joke or comment just before you press the shutter if looking for a smile/laugh in the photo.
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I owned TLRs including a Mamiya C330, and basically there is no difference using a SLR or DLR other than parallax and a WLF versus a prism.
I don't do many portraits, but I'm told that the generally lower position of a TLR can result in some unflattering views of nostrils.
You don't have to always hold the TLR waist high.
I don't do many portraits, but I'm told that the generally lower position of a TLR can result in some unflattering views of nostrils.
Now we get into why I do not do portraits. My father would ask someone if he could take their portraits. The people would feel complimented and say yes. Then he would take the Mamiya C330 and practically shove each lens up their nostrils as their eyes opened wide with horror.
Your Dad needed the 135mm or 180mm lens.
He was using the 250mm lenses.
Your Dad needed the 135mm or 180mm lens.
Fortunately I have the 135 coupled with a healthy aversion to nostrils. I just wish I was taller.
MattKing
Moderator
The prism finder helps for heads and shoulders work.
Like others have mentioned, I use a very short strap - the WLF becomes more of a chest level finder.
And the 135 is sharp and renders wonderfully. You can afford to have a little space around your subject.
I'm only 5'-8" so I sympathize! If you are shooting tall models then bring a small ladder. That's what the pros do.
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