Shanghai GP3 Zone System Test

[Huss]

Then you haven't spent enough time at University!

6 years as an undergrad was plenty. And my point is still valid. ;p

 

[Sirius Glass]

6 years as an undergrad was plenty. And my point is still valid. ;p

So you could not get it done in four years. Too much partying?

 

[Richard Man]

I only shoot Shanghai 4x5 and 8x10. YMMV

 

[Nokton48]

I "loaded up the truck" when they were discontinuing it and closing it out. I grabbed a lot of 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10. I checked tonight and it's all in my freezer and ready to use. I like this film so far. When I stepped out of my wedding business I had six Hasselblad A24's that I ran through New Jersey for full CLA. Still have those, too. Need to unload what's in those and load up with Shanghai 220

Shanghai 220 in D23 one to one by Nokton48, on Flickr

• Testing the new Shanghai 220 emulsion. Some flash on camera my old wedding flash Vivitar 283 various settings to see how it responds. Also a still life (Valentine Roses) using 250W modeling light in Broncolor C171 Monolight with 80x80cm Pulso Softbox. Silver fill on right side. Exposures ran very long out to 30 seconds.

 

[MattKing]

6 years as an undergrad was plenty. And my point is still valid. ;p

Technically 7 years here, but that is because the second degree (L.Lb./JD) is considered as an undergraduate degree, even if most of those involved have previous degrees.
It probably depends on what you were doing there - the physics and math people I encountered in my first go round did a lot more gazing!

 

[Huss]

So you could not get it done in four years. Too much partying?

What makes you think I got it done in 6 years?

 

[faberryman]

Testing the new Shanghai 220 emulsion. Some flash on camera my old wedding flash Vivitar 283 various settings to see how it responds. Also a still life (Valentine Roses) using 250W modeling light in Broncolor C171 Monolight with 80x80cm Pulso Softbox. Silver fill on right side. Exposures ran very long out to 30 seconds.

What are these photographs suppose to show?

 

[Nokton48]

What are these photographs suppose to show?

In the left photos I'm testing aperture settings with a portable strobe. In the right tests I exposed progressively longer exposures out to 30 seconds. Wanted to see how it responds to long exposures. Finally, I wanted to know if I was going to get surface defects. Which I dd not. I agree ISO 50 is about right for my upcoming uses. It responds to longer exposures very well!

 

[Sirius Glass]

What makes you think I got it done in 6 years?

6 years as an undergrad was plenty. And my point is still valid. ;p

 

[Huss]

​

I could have then dropped out..

(I didn't and all in jest)

 

[destroya]

here are 3 more examples. all shot at 100 with an orange B+W filter developed in pyro-m. lots of contrast and black blacks. shot with a fuji GSW 680iii. pigeon point lighthouse one facing and the other turned around 180 degrees. the mustard flowers are out in full bloom all along HWY 1. the fog was really coming in fast and the wind really picked up, so forced to shoot almost wide open to keep the flowers from looking like a mess. I have yet to develop the velvia film yet but looking forward to it. the oak tree is just one on my daily walk that I have been shooting off and on for 20+ years.

 

[Huss]

here are 3 more examples. all shot at 100 with an orange B+W filter developed in pyro-m. lots of contrast and black blacks. shot with a fuji GSW 680iii. pigeon point lighthouse one facing and the other turned around 180 degrees. the mustard flowers are out in full bloom all along HWY 1. the fog was really coming in fast and the wind really picked up, so forced to shoot almost wide open to keep the flowers from looking like a mess. I have yet to develop the velvia film yet but looking forward to it. the oak tree is just one on my daily walk that I have been shooting off and on for 20+ years.

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Beautiful! And at ISO 100, go figure..

 

[Sirius Glass]

Beautiful! And at ISO 100, go figure..

So why all this grousing about using it at ISO 25? For what purpose? Go for broke and shoot it at ISO 0.390625 and stand develop it for a decade.

 

[Moose22]

So why all this grousing about using it at ISO 25? For what purpose? Go for broke and shoot it at ISO 0.390625 and stand develop it for a decade.

Exactly.

Or just do whatever you want.

As long as you're actually making photographs and enjoying yourself I don't care where you've set your light meter.

I'm with Huss in general though. If it's fun for some people to do testing for whatever reason, they can do it and enjoy, but Id just shoot at 100, dev normally, and if I got pictures as nice as those three up above I'd be happy and proud of the results. Probably keep doing what worked for me.

If I were shooting sheets, printing analog at home, and had some notion of an Ansel Adams idea of technical perfection maybe I'd think differently, but even in MF, I'm mostly just looking to have made a good photograph that I like.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Exactly.

Or just do whatever you want.

As long as you're actually making photographs and enjoying yourself I don't care where you've set your light meter.

I'm with Huss in general though. If it's fun for some people to do testing for whatever reason, they can do it and enjoy, but Id just shoot at 100, dev normally, and if I got pictures as nice as those three up above I'd be happy and proud of the results. Probably keep doing what worked for me.

If I were shooting sheets, printing analog at home, and had some notion of an Ansel Adams idea of technical perfection maybe I'd think differently, but even in MF, I'm mostly just looking to have made a good photograph that I like.

I wanted to know it the film was worth using as advertized not based on developing on another planet.

 

[Moose22]

I wanted to know it the film was worth using as advertized not based on developing on another planet.

Shanghai GP3 Zone System Test

Seems a valid answer to your particular question.

But, then, I'm the guy sitting there counting on his fingers and muttering "30, 60, 125, 250.." after carefully metering the whole scene, and somehow still not sure whether he's exposing correctly, so I'm likely to just go sunny 16 and pray.

 

[John Wiegerink]

here are 3 more examples. all shot at 100 with an orange B+W filter developed in pyro-m. lots of contrast and black blacks. shot with a fuji GSW 680iii. pigeon point lighthouse one facing and the other turned around 180 degrees. the mustard flowers are out in full bloom all along HWY 1. the fog was really coming in fast and the wind really picked up, so forced to shoot almost wide open to keep the flowers from looking like a mess. I have yet to develop the velvia film yet but looking forward to it. the oak tree is just one on my daily walk that I have been shooting off and on for 20+ years.

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John,
These older style emulsions do work very nicely with Pyro developers. Your shots here prove it. I have two boxes of 4x5 in the freezer, but will be picking up a few rolls of 120 for some shooting in Spring. JohnW

 

[destroya]

the reason i posted the above shots was just to show that box speed was fine with this film. I have shot this in 120 using 50 and also got great results. but with the wind I needed all the speed I could get and wanted the filter to bring out the yellow flowers. sometimes testing and geeking out can be fun, educational and motivating. but in this case, it was just geting out and enjoy the strange warm weather and shoot a few shots while i was there.

john

 

[John Wiegerink]

the reason i posted the above shots was just to show that box speed was fine with this film. I have shot this in 120 using 50 and also got great results. but with the wind I needed all the speed I could get and wanted the filter to bring out the yellow flowers. sometimes testing and geeking out can be fun, educational and motivating. but in this case, it was just geting out and enjoy the strange warm weather and shoot a few shots while i was there.

john

John,
I had no problems rating it at ISO 64 or 100, but when I used it rating it at ISO 64 was the sweet spot with Rodinal. Of course, I really wasn't using the film for daily shooting and only to test cameras I had repaired or tuned. The real reason I used GP3 film for testing was because it was a very good film and it was super cheap back then. Not so cheap now, but that's life I guess.
I'm more of a comparer than a tester. If I find something good I'm always trying to make it just a little better. Sometimes I can and most of the time I can't. JohnW

 

[Nokton48]

This result reminds me the way old school films respond, which makes me think this is an older classic emulsion formulation. I could be perfectly happy with D23 diluted one shot, but this film will respond so perfectly with PMK Pyro + which I need to start using again. The "Eberhardt Effect" I seem to remember works best with older emulsion formulations. Delicate long scale highlights and juicy silvery midtones become the norm. Modern films are great and I'm glad to use them quite a bit. But it is very cool to have a choice. I think I will order some more have twelve rolls on hand. I'm on my second copy of "The Book of Pyro" and I need to get it out again. Actually PMK is one of the cheapest developers because it lasts forever in bottle and it so dilute. My last bottle lasted over ten years!

My darkroom will be warming up soon and I have piles to print.

Didtaltruth Developments times with Shanghai films 100 and 400; I used D23 12mins 1:1 20C which is right off the chart for 100 speed. Yes I could shoot this also at 100, depending on subject matter. I like a lot of shadow detail

Massive Dev Chart Film Development, Film Developing Database (digitaltruth.com)

 

[abddba]

We guess the GP3 is coated by owro and cut and sub packed by Jiancheng.

 

[ic-racer]

here are 3 more examples. all shot at 100 with an orange B+W filter developed in pyro-m. lots of contrast and black blacks. shot with a fuji GSW 680iii. pigeon point lighthouse one facing and the other turned around 180 degrees. the mustard flowers are out in full bloom all along HWY 1. the fog was really coming in fast and the wind really picked up, so forced to shoot almost wide open to keep the flowers from looking like a mess. I have yet to develop the velvia film yet but looking forward to it. the oak tree is just one on my daily walk that I have been shooting off and on for 20+ years.

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I tend to downplay film type in creating my images in the darkroom, but in the case of Shanghai your images reminded me of prints I have been making from Shanghai 8x10 negatives like below.

 

[Bill Burk]

I could have then dropped out..

(I didn't and all in jest)

I didn’t drop out. I got through in a straight four with a summer and at the end a little negotiating with instructors. Challenged Linotype and passed … barely… only to find myself two years later at a plant with 30 Linotype’s (pics later).

This is me proving to my mom that I got my degree… she was telling everyone I dropped out.

 

[Nokton48]

Shanghai 220 Low Key Valentine Roses C22 105DS D23 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Testing Shanghai 220 in D23. Mamiya C22 105DS lens Broncolor 80x80cm Softbox Modeling Light Only Silver Fill Panel just off camera right. My old low key OMNI Muslin Background it's beeg 10x20 feet. Happy to use it again. Omega DII Omegalite laser aligned Arista RC #2 paper in Multigrade dev

Testing Shanghai 220 Wedding Flash Mamiya C22 105DS by Nokton48, on Flickr

Mamiya C22 freshly overhauled 105DS lens, testing Shanghai 220 film processed in D23. Wedding Flash 283 direct flash with mini softbox. Omega DII Omegalite head laser alligned Arista 8x10 RC #2 Multigrade dev

Testing new C22 105DS Shanghai 220 D23 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Testing long exposures in new Mamiya C33 105DS lens Shanghai 220 D23 dev. Thirty second exposure. Omega DII Omegalite head laser aligned Arista RC #2 paper Multigrade dev. Came out kind of high key I sort of like it

 

[ic-racer]

Those are nice. That is the 220! Makes me want to get some.