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Shanghai arrived

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moltogordo

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My 20 rolls of 2016 dated Shanghai 120 has arrived. I've loaded a roll into one of my users, a Mamiya C220. I'll shoot the film this weekend, develop it (first roll in D76) and hopefully post the results then, too. I have an original roll (old stock) I've also developed in D76, but haven't printed. If there is a huge difference, I'll do a comparison.

If I get the chance, I'll do a second roll and stand develop it in Rodinal.
 

Dr Croubie

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I do hope that the backing-paper-circles issue has been dealt with, if it has I might consider a few rolls...
 

ambaker

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I have heard, in other forums, that the issue has been resolved. I have seen reports that 2015, and 2016 expiration dates do not show the problem.

My 10/2014 expiration date film definitely has the problem.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

JW PHOTO

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I've never had any issues with Ilford fp4.

I haven't had any issues with FP4+ either, but I also have no issues with GP3 with expiration date 2016. I like Kodak and Ilford and use them both, but I can almost buy two rolls of Shanghai GP3 for the price of one roll of FP4+. GP3 is shipped to my door for free and FP4+ is not. GP3 is a pretty darn good film for the money, but if QC problems arise I'll relegate it to just test film then. I don't knock something until I try it. I've tried it and I'm not knocking it. John W
 

JW PHOTO

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My 20 rolls of 2016 dated Shanghai 120 has arrived. I've loaded a roll into one of my users, a Mamiya C220. I'll shoot the film this weekend, develop it (first roll in D76) and hopefully post the results then, too. I have an original roll (old stock) I've also developed in D76, but haven't printed. If there is a huge difference, I'll do a comparison.

If I get the chance, I'll do a second roll and stand develop it in Rodinal.

Make sure you keep us informed. I just ran some through my old 500C with 80mm 2.8 *T* lens and souped it in Pyrocat-MC semi-stand and they are super. I've only scanned them so far, but they sure look like they print just fine. I'm going to load a back with GP3 and a back with Ultrafine-Xtreme 120 ISO100 and do both in Pyrocat_MC. I'll scan and post a couple of shots to compare each and post them. John W
 

Athiril

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I haven't had issues with latest GP3. I also really like how GP3 looks, having scanned both on a Flextight 949, it appears that GP3 on my Sekor C 90mm actually resolves better than FP4+ with a higher resolving len in 35mm fwiw (in terms of lp/mm), but that's not my reason for shooting it.

I know I always post this sample, I need to go out and take some new stuff with it this weekend :smile:

9fy92p.jpg


33uddp5.jpg
 

craigclu

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Make sure you keep us informed. I just ran some through my old 500C with 80mm 2.8 *T* lens and souped it in Pyrocat-MC semi-stand and they are super. I've only scanned them so far, but they sure look like they print just fine. I'm going to load a back with GP3 and a back with Ultrafine-Xtreme 120 ISO100 and do both in Pyrocat_MC. I'll scan and post a couple of shots to compare each and post them. John W


What EI was working for you with Pyrocat-MC? What was your semi-stand routine? I bought some GP3 this week and will be using it to test some odds and ends systems and Pyrocat-MC is my main soup these days.
 

JW PHOTO

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What EI was working for you with Pyrocat-MC? What was your semi-stand routine? I bought some GP3 this week and will be using it to test some odds and ends systems and Pyrocat-MC is my main soup these days.

Craig,
I used an incident reading set on EI 80, but conditions were not that great for shooting. It was raining lightly and dark enough out that the cars had their headlights on, but the shots still came out very good I think. For the development I used Pyrocat-MC 1.5 parts A, 1 part B to 150 distilled water with a 5 min. presoak at 68 degrees for 45 minutes. Agitated 1 minute at the start and the two more times evenly divided. I'm going to refine this a little more when I shoot an average scene. I'm also going to try a roll with normal development in Pyrocat-MC to see how that goes. I'll add some shots of the scene and some 100% blowups scanned straight with no sharpening or curves added a little later. John W
 

JW PHOTO

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The only problem I've had with it has been bad tape affixing the film to the backing. I like the film but can't accept the whole roll of film going to waste when it blows up in camera from the tape letting go.

Dave,
What camera are you using it in? Is this the latest batch of GP3? I've used it (GP3) in my Ikonta folder, Rolleiflex 3.5E, 2.8E and 3.5F, and three different Hasselblad backs and haven't had that problem. I just processed a roll this morning and the tape seems as well adhered to the film and paper as any other film. I do have one Rolleiflex that has the auto-feelers set a little close and with GP3's slightly thicker backing paper throws the number one exposure further down the film, but I still get 12 exp. on the roll. The last exposure is right near the end of the film, but still 100% usable. I do agree that a new type of backing paper, less porous, would be welcome. Along with better tape. John W
 

JW PHOTO

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I've had the problem a couple times in my RZ and once in my Holga. No problem in my Mamiya 645 to date. Multiple failures made me pretty wary, but I know I should give it another chance. I definitely like the look of it, and it's especially cheap here in China.

Dave,
Yes, I like it too, but surely pay more for it than you. I was wondering if maybe high humidity might have something to do with the masking tape not sticking as well? Not very humid here in Michigan, but I remember what it was like in Vietnam this time of year. If Shanghai is anywhere close to that then the answer might be the porous paper sucking up moisture. Just a thought. John W
 
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moltogordo

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I've now contact printed the first roll of the ORIGINAL Shanghai I bought a couple of years ago. Yes it curls, but it's fine in the negative carrier and in the plastic sleeves. The contact prints look very nice, and the tonality is excellent. I used D76 1:1 for 11 minutes.

About an hour ago I loaded the NEW Shanghai that just arrived into the tank. I use Paterson tanks and reels for 120. Loading was smooth. The curl was a lot less than the original. I can't develop it until the morning because I'm out of distilled water and need that for the final wash and flo. I'll also be using D76 1:1 this time around. I will be out town for 3 days, so all I'll be able to do is tell you what the negs look like. I'll contact print them and hopefully Friday/Saturday get a print or two from each of the rolls and put them in this post.

It was shot at ASA 100 in my Mamiya C220 with the f4.5 135mm lens on it. That's one of the best lenses I have, so I'm quite filled with positive vibes!
 

JW PHOTO

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That could very well be the case. We have a dehumidifier running 24/7 at least half the year to keep everything going to mold!

It was just a thought? I do remember being sent, temporarily for three weeks, to another unit when I was in Vietnam and when I got back my leather boot that were in a box were covered with a layer of green mold. I don't think any tape works good in those conditions. Still, the Chinese could use a little smoother backing paper and better tape. John W
 

JW PHOTO

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I've now contact printed the first roll of the ORIGINAL Shanghai I bought a couple of years ago. Yes it curls, but it's fine in the negative carrier and in the plastic sleeves. The contact prints look very nice, and the tonality is excellent. I used D76 1:1 for 11 minutes.

About an hour ago I loaded the NEW Shanghai that just arrived into the tank. I use Paterson tanks and reels for 120. Loading was smooth. The curl was a lot less than the original. I can't develop it until the morning because I'm out of distilled water and need that for the final wash and flo. I'll also be using D76 1:1 this time around. I will be out town for 3 days, so all I'll be able to do is tell you what the negs look like. I'll contact print them and hopefully Friday/Saturday get a print or two from each of the rolls and put them in this post.

It was shot at ASA 100 in my Mamiya C220 with the f4.5 135mm lens on it. That's one of the best lenses I have, so I'm quite filled with positive vibes!

Good, let us know when you get a chance. JohnW
 

cmacd123

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I have not had the problem with the tape on the shanghai stuff, but the Chine Lucky 120 I have is so bad that I have started to unwind and re-tape each roll in the dark before using it.

That rough backing paper is what the Shanghai Seagull TLR camera needs to measure out the film, so I would be surprised if they would willingly change it. My Seagull 4 only gets about 10 shots on Kodak or Ilford film because the wheel slips on the smooth base, but it measures the Shanghai GP3 perfectly.
 

JW PHOTO

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I have not had the problem with the tape on the shanghai stuff, but the Chine Lucky 120 I have is so bad that I have started to unwind and re-tape each roll in the dark before using it.

That rough backing paper is what the Shanghai Seagull TLR camera needs to measure out the film, so I would be surprised if they would willingly change it. My Seagull 4 only gets about 10 shots on Kodak or Ilford film because the wheel slips on the smooth base, but it measures the Shanghai GP3 perfectly.

Now the backing paper problem seems to have an answer. Still wish it weren't so porous, but I can live with it I guess. John W
 
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moltogordo

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I have now developed the roll of new (2016 dated) Shanghai film. 12 minutes in D76 1:1 at 68 degrees. It was exposed at 100 ASA. No twisting curl like the old stuff, but it did roll a bit before I attached the weight, about the same as old Plus X.

The negatives look just excellent. A lot like Plus-X, actually. But the proof will be in the printing. I print, not scan, and then scan the print, so I'll do a contact sheet this weekend, and hopefully have the time to pick the best neg and print it. Again, I'll put it in this thread, along with a scanned print made from the original as well.. That would be a moot point, though, because I have none of the older stuff left, and won't buy any more, either.

Looking forward to printing with some anticipation! :smile:
 
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moltogordo

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Here are the results of my darkroom experiments with OLD and NEW Shanghai. The pictures are lousy - no art here, just snapshots to test film and cameras.

Both rolls were developed in D76 1:1 for 12 minutes. I'll cut that back down to 10.

Both rolls, unfortunately, are subject to my printing them on Grade #3 Aristo 5x7 paper, all I had left. Papers not bad, but it's too contrasty - there is definitely washed out highlights, but the detail is in the negatives. My normal procedure is to print on 5x7 glossy, scan, spot and adjust minimally. If the picture is worth it, then I'll enlarge on Ilford Galerie or Kentmere RC.


Okay, here's the first shot, taken with Old Shanghai, with a Seagull 4 TLR. The day was bright, no clouds in the sky, and I was attempting here to create an "old fashioned" family pose with harsh lighting and lots of contrast. I imagined also, that this is the kind of shot the folks in China would take with their Seagulls and Shanghai, and hoped I came close to "the spirit of the thing." This is a family I know I ran into at a hiking trail parking lot. I did cut the contrast a bit in curves, spotted some dust specks, and added .20 unsharp mask. This is a 5x7 print taken from a 7x7 area on the enlarger easel. ie pretty much full frame

157625157.jpg




Here is the new Shanghai, also Developed in D76 1:1 for 12 minutes. The negatives are a touch contrasty, I'll cut the development back to 10 minutes here, also. The grade 3 paper is also too harsh, but you can see some thing here with respect to tonality. This was taken from a 6"x6" image on the easel, so the 5x5+ area here is pretty much the entire negative. Outside of the excessive contrast and lack of time to do anything but snapshot photo and darkroom work, (Camera was a Mamiya C220, resting on a sawhorse in my front yard), you can see the nice tonality and fine grain of the film. YES, THERE IS DETAIL ON THE NEGS that is not present in the washed-out highlights of this photo.


157625165.jpg




Here is a detail of the above photo, and the image was 16x16 on my enlarger easel/baseboard, so this is the equivalent of about a 10x16 enlargement. I did NO spotting or adjusting of any type on this detail - this is a straight scan of the print. Any lack of sharpness is due to the sloppy tripod work (a sawhorse). I was using a 135mm Mamiya Sekor lens, at f4.5 (wide open) and 1/60th second . . . it was fairly late afternoon and the sun was low. So this is hardly a legitimate test.

157625171.jpg





I'm pleased with the grain, the tonality and the overall look of the film. I don't really know the film, but I'll use it for sure. I can work with it and develop better technique with it. The new emulsion is thicker than the old, and yes, it does curl a bit, but not to the same extent of the old stuff. And, it's readily available and cheap. I had NO trouble with the backing, on either the Seagull 4 or the Mamiya C220

Thanks for looking in and contributing to this post.
 
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JW PHOTO

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I had the same results and think this would be an excellent film for some of my old folding cameras. In fact I just stuck a roll in an old folding Ikonta with a Tessar lens. They should be made for each other. From a price point this film and Ultrafine Xtreme 100 will let me shoot a little more and that's always better. John W
 

Rick A

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I've shot quite alot of GP3, my only complaint is it is very difficult to read the numbers through red windows on old medium format cameras. It could just be my old eyes, but an annoyance none the less.
 

Dr Croubie

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I've shot quite alot of GP3, my only complaint is it is very difficult to read the numbers through red windows on old medium format cameras. It could just be my old eyes, but an annoyance none the less.

I've read Simon from Ilford say the exact same thing about ilford films, that they do that on purpose so that it's harder to burn the number into the film (which can still happen even with a red window, some cameras you can't shut it).
Given the complaints about numbers and dots appearing on the Old Shanghai (it happened to me too), they may print the numbers lighter to stop this happening (even if burning through the backing wasn't the issue to begin with, it's nice if they QCed other potential problems before they appeared).
 
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