Well, dang it. The camera shop's closed on Sundays, so buying some Photo Flo will have to wait. It's at times like this that makes me wonder about this city's sense of history -- which it seems to have little of. Fourth largist city in the USA (some say third) -- some four million people in the greater metro area -- and it can support only ONE camera shop. Used to be two until the other closed up suddenly last year. Dang!
I'm gonna re-Blix anyway, though. And then Stabilize.
Cholentpot, well that roll of 800 looks pretty tired. Made me think your chems were indeed exhausted until I saw your roll of 200. Nope, looks like those chems still have some life left to them! 27 rolls and counting . . .
Cholentpot, I take it that your post 19 is a reply to my question. If so thanks. It was difficult to assess the results on the link as only the tree shot seemed to have enough detail to make a judgement. The author might have given more examples if he feels that he has really found a satisfactory way to stand develop C41 at room temp. The colours did not look good to me. A kind of a washed-out look that he seemed happy with but it did not come close to what I'd regard as OK nor if I may be so bold, do I think it would meet many others' standards
While your second neg of flowers looked reasonable it wasn't the ideal neg to make a judgement on. What I think is needed to is a neg with a full range of colours, including a person close enough to the foreground to judge skin tones before stand development can be judged
Frankly the quality of the first shot of what appears to be a pot of marbles on top of a piece of wood with trees as a background is terrible. This may be the age of the film but I do wonder if stand development at room temp contributed to the very bad quality.
All that matters is that stand development works for you but I doubt if the evidence you have provided will persuade others to give it a try. The only real test is a fresh film in a reasonable camera of a range of colours in a range of light conditions where all or nearly all the negs are OK when scanned without correction.
I see no point in not being honest here but nevertheless thanks for the link and taking the time to give me an answer
pentaxuser
Bummer! If it isn't retained silver, then there isn't much you can do to improve these negs. Is there a way to get images through scanning?Okay, I just re-Blixed my Fujicolor negatives -- no change. So the film was junk when I loaded it into the tank, I guess.
Stand developing can be (there was a url link here which no longer exists). This will, in case your film is already fogged, not yield the results you want! If you want to reduce fog, add Bromide in 0.5 g/l increments until small unexposed test clips no longer show high fog levels.Well, maybe I'll try stand developing a couple rolls after the Blix gets back to room temperature.
I don't think that any residual STAB would adversely interfere with BLIX. In regular 7-bath E6 process, the Formalin is part of prebleach, so it definitely doesn't hurt bleach or fixer. Some people have added Photo-Flo to developer to increase uniformity, again with no adverse steps.Something I didn't do when I re-Blixed the negs that maybe I should have done? I'm thinking I should have rinsed them first -- I forgot, I just dumped the Blix into the tank. Reason is, the film probably had some residual Stabilizer on it, which is now mixed with the Blix. Will that have contaminated my Blix?
Thanks for the extra pics, Cholentpot. Other than the 800 film the rest look much better. There are certainly some plus points for stand development. No worries about temp and 45 mins is long enough to let you do other things. I understand the "old film so nothing to lose approach" for stand development which makes it a rescue attempt but what would be really interesting is two fresh films taking the same pics. One gets lab processed or 3'15" processed in a water bath where you know that the temp is close to 100F and one stand developed
I can only speak for myself but I have now seen enough to think that stand development may offer an acceptable alternative to the full blown Jobo processor way for those who haven't got a Jobo processor. Certainly worth the trial I am suggesting above.
pentaxuser
One does not "need" a Jobo to process C41 at the recommended temperatures and time. A picnic cooler and a hot water source + whatever tank you normally use for b&w will do fine.
I have used a Unicolor film drum (it's insulated) for years with their roller base; easy, cheap, with excellent results.
Bummer! If it isn't retained silver, then there isn't much you can do to improve these negs. Is there a way to get images through scanning?
Regarding stand developing, I stand developed two rolls of Kodak 200 last night using the procedure shown in the addicted2light link provided above. Examined them today and they appear to have excellent density and contrast. I'm not gonna scan them yet because the Stabilizer didn't get rid of all the spots, so I'm gonna add some Photo Flo to the Stabilizer and try again.
Nonetheless, it appears that this technique is a real winner for C-41. I'll be able to tell more, more precisely, once I've scanned the two rolls.
Me either. Usually when folks talk about how there aren't any color shifts or anything that means that it's "good enough" and they scan the negs and can fix everything. I darkroom print and I want to do the best job I can to get the colors right within reason.Can't wait to see the results. I never had the guts to use it on fresh film.
Me either. Usually when folks talk about how there aren't any color shifts or anything that means that it's "good enough" and they scan the negs and can fix everything. I darkroom print and I want to do the best job I can to get the colors right within reason.
Me either. Usually when folks talk about how there aren't any color shifts or anything that means that it's "good enough" and they scan the negs and can fix everything. I darkroom print and I want to do the best job I can to get the colors right within reason.
Or how about those reversed colours, which are even more important than the mask?uhhhhh...so that orange mask, where did it go?
Or how about those reversed colours, which are even more important than the mask?
As long as the digital post - process worker is willing to do separate corrections for each of the colour layers, crossover doesn't matter so much.
But otherwise...
That is fine for single shifts.I've had times where the shift has been beyond what I can correct. I blame that on the film over the process though. I mean having a roll in an attic for 10 years in the heat and cold will do things to it. Terrible things...or great if you into LOMO.
How do we get to the bottom of this in order to establish whether stand development has delivered correctly coloured negs? Otherwise we are condemned forever to have members come up with allegedly sound processing methods which involve less than 100F and others replying that at less than 100F colour crossover is inevitable.
Just for my own information, I shot a roll yesterday and stand developed it per the directions on the link above in this thread.Yes, ensuring that stand development gets the neg colours right is key for darkroom printers and it is why when doing a positive scan as if it were a print that it faithfully reflects the neg colours. Provided that these scans are a faithful representation of the neg's colours without correction then it seems to me that stand development does represent a new and attractively easy way of processing C41.
pentaxuser
Thanks rpavich. If I may summarise: I think you are saying that you have processed C41 with the stand method and the negs to your naked eye look normal. You have an enlarger and can optically print RA4 to check if the negs are free of colour crossover. You will post your results here on APUG.
I am seeking ways to get to the truth about stand development and am hoping that APUG will lend a hand in this. I am not seeking to win an argument which by definition involves two sides, one of which wins and by definition the other of which has to lose.
pentaxuser
For clarity, neither am I.I am not seeking to win an argument which by definition involves two sides, one of which wins and by definition the other of which has to lose.
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