Severe Results with Fuji Film and Unicolor C-41 (powder) Kit

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cooltouch

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Okay, I just re-Blixed my Fujicolor negatives -- no change. So the film was junk when I loaded it into the tank, I guess.

Well, maybe I'll try stand developing a couple rolls after the Blix gets back to room temperature.

Something I didn't do when I re-Blixed the negs that maybe I should have done? I'm thinking I should have rinsed them first -- I forgot, I just dumped the Blix into the tank. Reason is, the film probably had some residual Stabilizer on it, which is now mixed with the Blix. Will that have contaminated my Blix?
 

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Well, dang it. The camera shop's closed on Sundays, so buying some Photo Flo will have to wait. It's at times like this that makes me wonder about this city's sense of history -- which it seems to have little of. Fourth largist city in the USA (some say third) -- some four million people in the greater metro area -- and it can support only ONE camera shop. Used to be two until the other closed up suddenly last year. Dang!

I'm gonna re-Blix anyway, though. And then Stabilize.

Cholentpot, well that roll of 800 looks pretty tired. Made me think your chems were indeed exhausted until I saw your roll of 200. Nope, looks like those chems still have some life left to them! 27 rolls and counting . . .

The 800 is the issue here, I've shot loads and loads of expired. I already know straight out which film is shot because of film. The 200 had issues with yellow which I think was due to the stand. Last time I maxed out at 35 rolls before tossing the chems.

Cholentpot, I take it that your post 19 is a reply to my question. If so thanks. It was difficult to assess the results on the link as only the tree shot seemed to have enough detail to make a judgement. The author might have given more examples if he feels that he has really found a satisfactory way to stand develop C41 at room temp. The colours did not look good to me. A kind of a washed-out look that he seemed happy with but it did not come close to what I'd regard as OK nor if I may be so bold, do I think it would meet many others' standards

While your second neg of flowers looked reasonable it wasn't the ideal neg to make a judgement on. What I think is needed to is a neg with a full range of colours, including a person close enough to the foreground to judge skin tones before stand development can be judged

Frankly the quality of the first shot of what appears to be a pot of marbles on top of a piece of wood with trees as a background is terrible. This may be the age of the film but I do wonder if stand development at room temp contributed to the very bad quality.

All that matters is that stand development works for you but I doubt if the evidence you have provided will persuade others to give it a try. The only real test is a fresh film in a reasonable camera of a range of colours in a range of light conditions where all or nearly all the negs are OK when scanned without correction.

I see no point in not being honest here but nevertheless thanks for the link and taking the time to give me an answer

pentaxuser

The grain and horribleness is almost completely due to the film. 800 film does not hold up well after a few years over I found.

Here's another 800 that shows how dead it is, I think this was a K1000 with a 28 2.8 lens.
Jm0cUBz.jpg


And here's the 200 with slightly more in the photo. Minolta Freedom AF Date or something
HmcnhEJ.jpg


and here's some Portra 160 NC expired back in '06. Olympus OM-1 with a Z-50 1.8
zrJdlxK.jpg


I use the stand method towards the end of the life of my chems because I'm not expecting much from expired film in the first place. My good film gets frozen and waits for a new batch kit down the road. I just shoot this stuff for the joy of having some film to shoot and play with. I've learned more from expired film than I have from fresh film. Same goes for plastic trash-orama cameras. Because of all the careless frames I shoot for basically nothing of subjects that I wouldn't waste time on with cameras I'll take out in the mud and rain, and then develop cross-eyed, I can now put a fresh roll in a good camera with a great lens and be confident in my results.
 

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Okay, I just re-Blixed my Fujicolor negatives -- no change. So the film was junk when I loaded it into the tank, I guess.
Bummer! If it isn't retained silver, then there isn't much you can do to improve these negs. Is there a way to get images through scanning?
Well, maybe I'll try stand developing a couple rolls after the Blix gets back to room temperature.
Stand developing can be (there was a url link here which no longer exists). This will, in case your film is already fogged, not yield the results you want! If you want to reduce fog, add Bromide in 0.5 g/l increments until small unexposed test clips no longer show high fog levels.
Something I didn't do when I re-Blixed the negs that maybe I should have done? I'm thinking I should have rinsed them first -- I forgot, I just dumped the Blix into the tank. Reason is, the film probably had some residual Stabilizer on it, which is now mixed with the Blix. Will that have contaminated my Blix?
I don't think that any residual STAB would adversely interfere with BLIX. In regular 7-bath E6 process, the Formalin is part of prebleach, so it definitely doesn't hurt bleach or fixer. Some people have added Photo-Flo to developer to increase uniformity, again with no adverse steps.
 

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Thanks for the extra pics, Cholentpot. Other than the 800 film the rest look much better. There are certainly some plus points for stand development. No worries about temp and 45 mins is long enough to let you do other things. I understand the "old film so nothing to lose approach" for stand development which makes it a rescue attempt but what would be really interesting is two fresh films taking the same pics. One gets lab processed or 3'15" processed in a water bath where you know that the temp is close to 100F and one stand developed

I can only speak for myself but I have now seen enough to think that stand development may offer an acceptable alternative to the full blown Jobo processor way for those who haven't got a Jobo processor. Certainly worth the trial I am suggesting above.

pentaxuser
 

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One does not "need" a Jobo to process C41 at the recommended temperatures and time. A picnic cooler and a hot water source + whatever tank you normally use for b&w will do fine.
I have used a Unicolor film drum (it's insulated) for years with their roller base; easy, cheap, with excellent results.
 

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Thanks for the extra pics, Cholentpot. Other than the 800 film the rest look much better. There are certainly some plus points for stand development. No worries about temp and 45 mins is long enough to let you do other things. I understand the "old film so nothing to lose approach" for stand development which makes it a rescue attempt but what would be really interesting is two fresh films taking the same pics. One gets lab processed or 3'15" processed in a water bath where you know that the temp is close to 100F and one stand developed

I can only speak for myself but I have now seen enough to think that stand development may offer an acceptable alternative to the full blown Jobo processor way for those who haven't got a Jobo processor. Certainly worth the trial I am suggesting above.

pentaxuser

It can't hurt if you have free film and a terrible camera.
One does not "need" a Jobo to process C41 at the recommended temperatures and time. A picnic cooler and a hot water source + whatever tank you normally use for b&w will do fine.
I have used a Unicolor film drum (it's insulated) for years with their roller base; easy, cheap, with excellent results.

I use a cheap Styrofoam cooler and my chems are in 1 liter plastic bottles. I do aim for temps 4-5 degrees above recommended because I always get a 4-5 degree drop when the chems hit the tank. The 3 1/2 dev time doesn't allow for all that much more drop, the blix has more temp latitude anyhow. I've never had issues with even development or colors even if I am a few degrees off. I scan everything anyhow and it gets processed so slight color shifts are fully fixable. Same goes for my prints I get. I've never sprung for optical prints so I don't know if the negs are really toast.
 

btaylor

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The Unicolor film drum uses "drift by" temperature as well, it's just more narrow because you preheat the drum. I think it starts at 104 and drops to 100. I optically print only (ra4) and the prints are wonderful.
 

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If the only problem with using an incorrect temperature was single colour shift, I wouldn't care, because that is easy corrected for.
The problem with using an incorrect temperature is crossover - shadows shift colour in one direction, mid-tones shift colour in another direction, and in some cases highlights shift colour in a third direction. Even with digital manipulation, the results are difficult to repair.
 
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cooltouch

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I've been using a styro container for the bath from the beginning -- that is, even with my B&W and E-6 developing. B&W with ice, and E-6 with hot water.

Have you ever seen the styro containers that steaks get shipped in with dry ice? You know, like T-bones, rib-eyes, filets? They're like a picnic cooler on steroids. the sides and top are like 2" thick. The top fits very snugly, so there's no air exchange going on at all when it's in place. I use a lab-grade thermometer with a readout in degrees C. So for C-41, that's 39C. I've found that, even with the top off my "cooler" with its extra thick sides, during E-6 development and Blix times -- which are a lot longer than C-41 -- I'll have to do one, maybe two exchanges of water. An exchange is a 1 liter measuring cup's worth being dumped from the "cooler," which has a bath volume of 4 liters, followed by the cup with hot tap water that's at about 48-50C added back in. With B&W, temps usually don't drift enough during the development stage to worry about it. And with C-41, the development time is so short, it isn't a factor, plus the increased temp latitude with the Blix means I don't need to add any more hot during its 6.5 minutes. I suspect that, because of C-41's short times, even a regular old cheap styro beer cooler would work just fine. For E-6, there would probably be a bit more work involved in keeping the temps up, though.
 
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cooltouch

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Bummer! If it isn't retained silver, then there isn't much you can do to improve these negs. Is there a way to get images through scanning?

I don't believe so. I just don't think the light is strong enough to penetrate. One thing I'm thinking of trying is shooting the negs with my dupe rig. I dupe my E-6 and B&W film images with my Sony NEX 7, macro lens, and a flash with off-camera cord. I can put the dupe rig right up to the face of the flash and see if I get any penetration. Who knows?

I took another look at these negs during the bright light of the day today, and guess what? They are still dark, but now I can see quite a bit more detail. I still kinda doubt that my scanner can penetrate the darkness, but my dupe rig should be able to. I'll give it a try with the rig. But first, I need to use the Stabilizer again because it didn't get rid of all the spots. I'm gonna try adding a bit of Photo Flo to the Stabilizer. I have some of that Kodak Stabilizer on order and, failing the addition of Photo Flo, I'll wait until the Kodak stuff arrives, and try again.
 
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cooltouch

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Regarding stand developing, I stand developed two rolls of Kodak 200 last night using the procedure shown in the addicted2light link provided above. Examined them today and they appear to have excellent density and contrast. I'm not gonna scan them yet because the Stabilizer didn't get rid of all the spots, so I'm gonna add some Photo Flo to the Stabilizer and try again.

Nonetheless, it appears that this technique is a real winner for C-41. I'll be able to tell more, more precisely, once I've scanned the two rolls.
 

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Regarding stand developing, I stand developed two rolls of Kodak 200 last night using the procedure shown in the addicted2light link provided above. Examined them today and they appear to have excellent density and contrast. I'm not gonna scan them yet because the Stabilizer didn't get rid of all the spots, so I'm gonna add some Photo Flo to the Stabilizer and try again.

Nonetheless, it appears that this technique is a real winner for C-41. I'll be able to tell more, more precisely, once I've scanned the two rolls.

Can't wait to see the results. I never had the guts to use it on fresh film.
 

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Can't wait to see the results. I never had the guts to use it on fresh film.
Me either. Usually when folks talk about how there aren't any color shifts or anything that means that it's "good enough" and they scan the negs and can fix everything. I darkroom print and I want to do the best job I can to get the colors right within reason.
 

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Me either. Usually when folks talk about how there aren't any color shifts or anything that means that it's "good enough" and they scan the negs and can fix everything. I darkroom print and I want to do the best job I can to get the colors right within reason.

Yes, ensuring that stand development gets the neg colours right is key for darkroom printers and it is why when doing a positive scan as if it were a print that it faithfully reflects the neg colours. Provided that these scans are a faithful representation of the neg's colours without correction then it seems to me that stand development does represent a new and attractively easy way of processing C41.

pentaxuser
 

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Me either. Usually when folks talk about how there aren't any color shifts or anything that means that it's "good enough" and they scan the negs and can fix everything. I darkroom print and I want to do the best job I can to get the colors right within reason.

I mean to be honest though, unless I'm getting optical prints, everything gets corrected by the printer. It's all been digital since the late 90's.

'I did nothing to this negative! It's exactly how I saw it through the viewfinder!' uhhhhh...so that orange mask, where did it go? SOOC is bunk. Every negative gets tweaked.
 

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uhhhhh...so that orange mask, where did it go?
Or how about those reversed colours, which are even more important than the mask?
As long as the digital post - process worker is willing to do separate corrections for each of the colour layers, crossover doesn't matter so much.
But otherwise...
 

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Or how about those reversed colours, which are even more important than the mask?
As long as the digital post - process worker is willing to do separate corrections for each of the colour layers, crossover doesn't matter so much.
But otherwise...

I've had times where the shift has been beyond what I can correct. I blame that on the film over the process though. I mean having a roll in an attic for 10 years in the heat and cold will do things to it. Terrible things...or great if you into LOMO.
 

MattKing

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I've had times where the shift has been beyond what I can correct. I blame that on the film over the process though. I mean having a roll in an attic for 10 years in the heat and cold will do things to it. Terrible things...or great if you into LOMO.
That is fine for single shifts.
But by definition, crossover consists of multiple shifts, with different amounts and in different directions, in different parts of the scene.
Yech!
I worked as a colour printer way back when. Our business was doing machine and custom prints and enlargements for a number of professional/commercial/wedding photographers. One of our customers liked to save money by developing his own C41 films, instead of having them lab developed at one of the several pro labs around town. The films he developed had significant problems with crossover - if the bride's dress was printed white, you wouldn't like the groom's outfit at all! And there was a good chance that flesh tones would not flatter.
We ended up having to "fire" the customer - unless he sent us films in envelopes that proved he had them properly developed!
Nowadays, whenever I'm trying to balance a digital file where the scene was illuminated with multiple, different colour, light sources, I am reminded of that time...
 

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So has Cholentpot's negs, developed under the stand-development regime, got colour crossover which his scanner has automatically corrected so the faults are not apparent. Are his scans which have turned his negs into the equivalent of positive prints not a true reflection of what the negs colours actually are i.e. under an enlarger in a darkroom his negs will not be able to give prints which are free of colour cross-over.

How do we get to the bottom of this in order to establish whether stand development has delivered correctly coloured negs? Otherwise we are condemned forever to have members come up with allegedly sound processing methods which involve less than 100F and others replying that at less than 100F colour crossover is inevitable.

pentaxuser
 

MattKing

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Scanners (and for that matter, software) are not able to automatically correct crossover - at least not so far - and won't be able to unless there are some incredible advances in artificial intelligence.
The problem with crossover is that it affects different parts of the image in different ways - the bride's white dress (a highlight) gains one colour cast, the bridesmaids fuschia dresses (a mid-tone) gain another colour cast and the groom's dark suit (a near shadow tone) gain a third colour cast.
In order to correct the result, you need to make separate corrections to different parts of the image. Ideally, they need to be separate and proportional to tone, and the proportionality will vary with the amount of crossover.
As I said, Yech.
However - and this is equally important - the colour fidelity of many, if not most of the photos we print isn't necessarily critical. While the mother of the bride may be aghast if her daughter's dress doesn't come out white, she probably doesn't care a lot about those fuschia dresses trending toward salmon.
And as for the groom's suit - meh.
It is actually a bit of a curse noticing stuff like this, but I usually do notice it.
 

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How do we get to the bottom of this in order to establish whether stand development has delivered correctly coloured negs? Otherwise we are condemned forever to have members come up with allegedly sound processing methods which involve less than 100F and others replying that at less than 100F colour crossover is inevitable.

Hi, I don't think that this is an argument that "needs" to be won, one way or the other. In my mind, there is very little possibility of a normal person getting optimal "correct" color from an out-of-spec C-41 process. But if someone else thinks they are doing good work with "stand development," or whatever, what difference should it make to me?

To me, the only pertinent point is with regard to people READING about such things, and perhaps being persuaded that such out-of-spec operations are equally good. I personally think that they should consider that the inventors of C-41, Kodak, doesn't condone such processing, and that therefore the burden of the proof ought to be on the others. But if they want to try it themselves, well ... let them have at it.

My background includes years as the QC manager in a large studio chain lab. Over the years, I was involved in perhaps ten or so trade trials of new films and papers for pro portrait use. We did our own intensive testing before considering usage in our chain, but the trade trials would include a handful of tech reps as well as film/paper engineers from the manufacturers, including Kodak, Fuji, and Konica. They would all have packages of exposed materials to be processed by us, to see how they behaved in thoroughly-seasoned processes. And they would want to take back some of our own test prints for eval. (By the way, we always stayed with the lowest speed Kodak pro portrait/wedding films, from CPS up to Portra.)

In our testing, we used a variety of models, with different complexions and hair colors, over a wide range of camera exposures. We also included color charts and some clothing/ fabric samples (we could put the actual clothing/fabrics in the color booth next to actual prints to see how close they agree). Our main visual criteria was for "good" skin tone reproduction across all complexions, without significant color crossover (from highlights into shadow areas). But no major color errors were allowed either. I think that many of the people on this forum would be astounded at how good the color reproduction was, or at least, could be.

One thing we did NOT specifically test for was out-of-spec processing; we had no need to know about such behavior. But we DID study, sensitometricly, what various things did in the film process (this knowledge is useful in "process control," in knowing how to troubleshoot).

Anyway, from this background, I'm very skeptical that "optimal" color reproduction will come from an out-of-spec film process. And I even doubt that a "normal person" can digitally fix a scan to do so, at least unambiguously. Sure, with a lot of digital manipulation one can get something good, provided that they know what it should look like. By if, for example, someone gives you some (out-of-spec process) film of strangers, with clothing you have never seen, could you fix up the files to get really good color reproduction? I'm really doubtful.

But I'm willing to be proven wrong.

Ps, I think a great deal of the give-and-take on these issues is a matter of how finicky, or perhaps sophisticated, people are about color reproduction. If one has never seen better, it's hard to appreciate how good something really is.
 

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Yes, ensuring that stand development gets the neg colours right is key for darkroom printers and it is why when doing a positive scan as if it were a print that it faithfully reflects the neg colours. Provided that these scans are a faithful representation of the neg's colours without correction then it seems to me that stand development does represent a new and attractively easy way of processing C41.

pentaxuser
Just for my own information, I shot a roll yesterday and stand developed it per the directions on the link above in this thread.
I can't say exactly how the negatives came out, but I can say that they look "normal" at first glance. (which doesn't mean a lot) but there is nothing obviously horrifying about them to the naked eye.

I'm not looking for 100%, no crossover negs...just ones as good as I get from 100f processing in my Jobo. If they look at good then I"m satisfied. I'm sure my Jobo-produced negs aren't 100% in spec but to me, they are fine. They make good prints with no noticeable issues.
In the next day or two I'll make a contact sheet and see how it compares to others I have and post the results on APUG.
 
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pentaxuser

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Thanks rpavich. If I may summarise: I think you are saying that you have processed C41 with the stand method and the negs to your naked eye look normal. You have an enlarger and can optically print RA4 to check if the negs are free of colour crossover. You will post your results here on APUG.

I cannot speak for others but this is what I would need to make a decision on trying stand development if I did not have the facilities to ensure normal "in spec" processing

I know nothing about scanning and scanners but it would also appear from one of the replies above that the scans we were given by Cholentpot could not have been automatically corrected. The first scan represents an expired film so lets eliminate that. In the third scan the colours look a little washed out but as this is mural art this may be an authentic representation of the actual colours so it is difficult to pass judgement. However the second scan looks like a good neg on which to pass judgement.

I'd have to say that unless Cholentpot has chosen to do a lot of post processing work of a digital nature which from another reply is difficult to do and has chosen not to tell us about, then this scan of the street, trees in blossom and houses and sky looks OK to me and that neg looks therefore to be capable of producing an RA4 print optically of an acceptable nature.

I am seeking ways to get to the truth about stand development and am hoping that APUG will lend a hand in this. I am not seeking to win an argument which by definition involves two sides, one of which wins and by definition the other of which has to lose.

pentaxuser
 

rpavich

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Thanks rpavich. If I may summarise: I think you are saying that you have processed C41 with the stand method and the negs to your naked eye look normal. You have an enlarger and can optically print RA4 to check if the negs are free of colour crossover. You will post your results here on APUG.

True.

I am seeking ways to get to the truth about stand development and am hoping that APUG will lend a hand in this. I am not seeking to win an argument which by definition involves two sides, one of which wins and by definition the other of which has to lose.

pentaxuser

Same here. I just want to know, for me, if it's something that's viable as an alternative or not.
 

MattKing

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I am not seeking to win an argument which by definition involves two sides, one of which wins and by definition the other of which has to lose.
For clarity, neither am I.
If the development is out of spec, there will be crossover, because that is what happens when the different colour layers develop differently. Whether or not the amount of crossover results in unacceptable results probably depends on variables that are difficult to take into account with tests.
Things like variables that arise from differences in the subjects being photographed, the light sources used to illuminate the subjects and, most importantly, the colour sensitivity of the end user (e.g. my "mother of the bride" example above).
There may also be variables arising from the choice of film, condition of film, choice of developer "package" and the age and condition of that developer - not to mention the technique of the operator.
If you are trying an alternative approach, you aren't looking for optimum results - you are looking for "good enough". And you therefore have to address the questions of what constitutes "good enough" and how you are going to react when you get inconsistent results, with some being "good enough" and others not being "good enough".
 
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