setting the film counter on a Zorki-2S

[kwmullet]

Just received my first forray into FSU rangefinderography. It's christmas in April!
I got a very shiny, excellent condition, Zorki-2S and a Jupiter-8 made in '56 and '58 respectively. (digicam snap attached)

I'm slowly trying to learn the technique of loading the camera, and doing so without having to re-cut the leader. I think I've got the concept right in my head, I just have to translate that to my fingers.

After loading the camera, though, I'm a bit at a loss as to how I'm supposed to set the film counter to zero, or 38 or something that will put me at 1 after I advance the film 2-3 frames.

Sage advice from fellow travelers on the FSU rangefinder highway?

-KwM-

 

[Jeremy]

Maybe this will give you an idea, the Zorki 4 instruction manual

http://www.classiccamera.org/zorki 4 online manual.htm

 

[kwmullet]

Boy, do I feel like an idiot.

THere are two tiny stubbs on the numbered counter ring around the film advance knob. Those are for rotating the counter ring to point to the desired number.

yeesh.

Jeremy -- thanks for the pointer. Cool reading, but mine is a bottom-loader.

I'm looking forward to the day when I have good reason to research which of the synch delay settings to use for which flashbulbs.

 

[Dr.Kollig]

It seems like this camera is pretty close to a Leica II. It might be useful to cut a longer leader, like used in the Leicas, about 4 inches long to make film loading easier. Look for info on Leica SM cameras (screw mount).

Enjoy yourself,

Wolfram (Kiev 4A)

 

[kwmullet]

It seems like this camera is pretty close to a Leica II. It might be useful to cut a longer leader, like used in the Leicas, about 4 inches long to make film loading easier. Look for info on Leica SM cameras (screw mount).
Enjoy yourself,
Wolfram (Kiev 4A)

Thanks for the advice Wolfram.

Yeah.. I figured loading with pain was better than no loading at all. After determining that the specified leader length of 10cm was also about the same distance as between the center of the supply and takeup spool on the Zorki, and once I found out that (using my Leatherman Wave, which I've always got handy) cutting a new leader is easier when I start at the sprocket holes rather than at the end.

Over the past month or so (since I decided to buy my FSU camera), I've been looking at the different pages describing how to load a Leica-II-style bottom loader. I like this one the best.

Someday, I would like to get the hang of loading the camera with film having unchanged modern leaders, but for now, I like just being able to shoot with it.

-KwM-
​