Setting iso nikon f100
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"I was wondering how this works with shutter speed and aperture."
Once your ISO is set correctly...
Set your camera to "aperture priority" and choose your preferred aperture. The camera will automatically choose the right shutter speed.
Or set your camera to "shutter speed priority" and choose your preferred shutter speed. Then the camera will automatically choose the right aperture.
Once your ISO is set correctly...
Set your camera to "aperture priority" and choose your preferred aperture. The camera will automatically choose the right shutter speed.
Or set your camera to "shutter speed priority" and choose your preferred shutter speed. Then the camera will automatically choose the right aperture.
Regarding this thread, strange ideas came to my mind …
Would it be helpful for some 'newbies‘ to film-based photography, to have a dedicated 'beginners guide' in the Analog Workflow section ?
Not in form of discussions but kind of a -virtual- library with tutorials or essays for beginners.
I think we have those ‚leading lights‘ and experts here on Photrio to write about some themes, those 'newbies' can benefit from …
Maybe I'll post this in Generall discussions forums to accumulate ideas.
Would it be helpful for some 'newbies‘ to film-based photography, to have a dedicated 'beginners guide' in the Analog Workflow section ?
Not in form of discussions but kind of a -virtual- library with tutorials or essays for beginners.
I think we have those ‚leading lights‘ and experts here on Photrio to write about some themes, those 'newbies' can benefit from …
Maybe I'll post this in Generall discussions forums to accumulate ideas.
That would be helpful to many people I’d think
Nothing strange about those ideas; I concur...
MattKing
Moderator
ISO is the measure of how light sensitive the film (or sensor) is.
For a particular ISO sensitivity, you need a particular amount of light hitting the film (or sensor).
That amount of light hitting the film is the exposure.
There are two components to exposure - how long the light hits the film (or sensor) and how bright (intense) that light is when it hits the film (or sensor).
You control the length of time by adjusting the shutter speed. You control how bright the light is when it hits the film (or sensor) by adjusting the aperture (f/stop).
Generally speaking, there are a bunch of different combinations of shutter speed and aperture that will together result in the same exposure. Combinations like f/4 and 1/250, f/5.6 and 1/125, f/8 and 1/60, f/11 and 1/30, etc. will all result in the same exposure, although they will yield slightly different pictorial effects in certain circumstances. This equality of exposure amongst several combinations is referred to as reciprocity - I'll leave aside for now the additional complexities when one ventures to significantly longer (or massively shorter) exposure times.
If you are using a meter in a camera, it reads the light bouncing off the subject, evaluates it according to a pre-encoded pattern (angle of view), correlates it with the film (or sensor) sensitivity and then "reports" in one of several ways to the photographer:
1) if the camera is set to something like P for Program, it sets both the aperture and shutter speed to a combination that matches the reading and the ISO, according to a pre-set built into the meter. This allows for relatively automatic exposure;
2) if the camera is set to A for aperture priority, the photographer will have already set the aperture, based on the pictorial effect sought, and the meter system will choose the shutter speed that will give proper exposure. The photographer needs to pay attention to whether that speed works in the circumstances - does a higher speed need to be used to minimize camera shake or stop motion, or would a slower shutter speed give a better result with moving water would be the sorts of things to pay attention to;
3) if the camera is set to S (or sometimes T) for shutter speed priority, the photographer will have already set the shutter speed, based on the need to minimize camera shake or stop motion, and the meter system will choose the aperture that will give proper exposure. The photographer needs to pay attention to whether that aperture (f/stop) works in the circumstances - does a smaller f/stop (larger aperture) need to be used to obtain shallow depth of field, or would a larger f/stop (smaller aperture) give a better result with more depth of field; and
4) if the camera is set to M for manual exposure, the photographer will choose either the shutter speed or aperture they seek to use, and the meter will help them set manually the corresponding other variable (either aperture or shutter speed) that will yield what the meter deems to be appropriate exposure.
In each of the first three cases, the camera sets either both or at least one of the shutter speed and aperture automatically for the photographer. In the case of using the manual function, the camera just gives advice, while the photographer sets both.
In almost all cases, cameras also give the photographer the ability to over-ride what the camera would otherwise choose. With experience, one gets to learn where results will be improved if one either adds or reduces exposure, and how much. When you are starting out, it is probably best to rely heavily on the camera's recommendations - particularly with a camera that has as advanced a metering system as a Nikon F100.
There are a lot of similarities between using an F100 and a DSLR. Don't discount the experience you have already gained. Just be aware that digital is more like slide film than negative film. With negative film it is better to err on the side of more exposure - with digital and slide film it is better to err slightly on the less exposure side.
For a particular ISO sensitivity, you need a particular amount of light hitting the film (or sensor).
That amount of light hitting the film is the exposure.
There are two components to exposure - how long the light hits the film (or sensor) and how bright (intense) that light is when it hits the film (or sensor).
You control the length of time by adjusting the shutter speed. You control how bright the light is when it hits the film (or sensor) by adjusting the aperture (f/stop).
Generally speaking, there are a bunch of different combinations of shutter speed and aperture that will together result in the same exposure. Combinations like f/4 and 1/250, f/5.6 and 1/125, f/8 and 1/60, f/11 and 1/30, etc. will all result in the same exposure, although they will yield slightly different pictorial effects in certain circumstances. This equality of exposure amongst several combinations is referred to as reciprocity - I'll leave aside for now the additional complexities when one ventures to significantly longer (or massively shorter) exposure times.
If you are using a meter in a camera, it reads the light bouncing off the subject, evaluates it according to a pre-encoded pattern (angle of view), correlates it with the film (or sensor) sensitivity and then "reports" in one of several ways to the photographer:
1) if the camera is set to something like P for Program, it sets both the aperture and shutter speed to a combination that matches the reading and the ISO, according to a pre-set built into the meter. This allows for relatively automatic exposure;
2) if the camera is set to A for aperture priority, the photographer will have already set the aperture, based on the pictorial effect sought, and the meter system will choose the shutter speed that will give proper exposure. The photographer needs to pay attention to whether that speed works in the circumstances - does a higher speed need to be used to minimize camera shake or stop motion, or would a slower shutter speed give a better result with moving water would be the sorts of things to pay attention to;
3) if the camera is set to S (or sometimes T) for shutter speed priority, the photographer will have already set the shutter speed, based on the need to minimize camera shake or stop motion, and the meter system will choose the aperture that will give proper exposure. The photographer needs to pay attention to whether that aperture (f/stop) works in the circumstances - does a smaller f/stop (larger aperture) need to be used to obtain shallow depth of field, or would a larger f/stop (smaller aperture) give a better result with more depth of field; and
4) if the camera is set to M for manual exposure, the photographer will choose either the shutter speed or aperture they seek to use, and the meter will help them set manually the corresponding other variable (either aperture or shutter speed) that will yield what the meter deems to be appropriate exposure.
In each of the first three cases, the camera sets either both or at least one of the shutter speed and aperture automatically for the photographer. In the case of using the manual function, the camera just gives advice, while the photographer sets both.
In almost all cases, cameras also give the photographer the ability to over-ride what the camera would otherwise choose. With experience, one gets to learn where results will be improved if one either adds or reduces exposure, and how much. When you are starting out, it is probably best to rely heavily on the camera's recommendations - particularly with a camera that has as advanced a metering system as a Nikon F100.
There are a lot of similarities between using an F100 and a DSLR. Don't discount the experience you have already gained. Just be aware that digital is more like slide film than negative film. With negative film it is better to err on the side of more exposure - with digital and slide film it is better to err slightly on the less exposure side.
Yes, Portra has a very wide exposure latitude and I have shot it at box speed for over a decade. For the Zone System if I need more shadow detail and then I shoot manually to do the compensation.
Set the ISO to DX. That way you always shooting box speed regardless of what kind of film you use. I don't recommend using anything other than box speed until at least you know how to set the ISO.
I think it is a great idea, but a lot of people (like me) have difficulty distilling information down enough to keep it brief, and I think brevity is important when someone is learning.
Dylan, if you have a digital camera, you can practice this by setting your digital camera's ISO to 400 (or whatever) and leaving it there. Make sure you turn off any "auto ISO" features it has.
There still are very common books from the analog days around.
Very much published were authors as Michael Langford and Michael Freeman.
The publishing of a beginners guide has been discussed at Apug for a long time...
Well, at our "Resources" we got a "Beginners" subsection:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/resources/categories/for-beginners.6/
https://www.photrio.com/forum/resources/categories/for-beginners.6/
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