W.r.t resolving power, what doesn't work to the advantage of Fomapan 200 is its mediocre antihalation in 35mm. It's a totally different animal from 4x5" foma 200 in that sense. Which makes the comparison a little tricky IMO.Fomapan 200 is an excellent film in 4x5 but has observably less resolving power than, say, FP4+ and certainly TMX. This is most noticeable in 35mm.
No matter what I did or how I tried, I could not get Double X to give me optimally sharp negatives as compared to Foma 200, FP4+, or TMX.
Pyrocat HD is a superadditive developer just the same. Hydroquinone and pyrocatechol are very closely related molecules; both are superadditive with metol (pyrocat M-variants) and phenodine ('vanilla' pyrocat HD). Dilution indeed is key since the idea behind the high-acutance nature of reduced agitation development is to exhaust the developer locally.presumably because of the rapidity of superadditive devlopment
Mod Hat back on: Okay, bonehead was a bit strong.
W.r.t resolving power, what doesn't work to the advantage of Fomapan 200 is its mediocre antihalation in 35mm. It's a totally different animal from 4x5" foma 200 in that sense. Which makes the comparison a little tricky IMO.
Btw, how did you assess/measure resolving power and how do you define it for your own purposes?
How do you define 'optimally sharp' in this context? I've gone through some double x myself over the last year and I can't really complain of sharpness in the meaning of acutance. But it's pretty grainy and doesn't render a whole lot of fine detail for a film of this speed. Are we talking about the same?
I do notice it makes a lot of difference how it's developed; it looks quite different to me in parodinal vs. xtol vs. pyrocat.
Pyrocat HD is a superadditive developer just the same. Hydroquinone and pyrocatechol are very closely related molecules; both are superadditive with metol (pyrocat M-variants) and phenodine ('vanilla' pyrocat HD).
Dilution indeed is key since the idea behind the high-acutance nature of reduced agitation development is to exhaust the developer locally.
I personally don't do much stand/semi-stand; I do sometimes develop esp. 35mm film with 3 minute agitation intervals, which is generally a safe practice in terms of avoiding uneven development.
Mod Hat back on: Okay, bonehead was a bit strong.
Some time ago I made tests in which I photographed a dark grey card on top of a light grey card using various films and developed the negatives semi stand in half strength FX-1. In agreement with the results in post 1 it was found on enlarging the negatives that the Efke films showed the most edge effect and T-Max 100 the least with other films falling in between.
Formulating a sharp solvent MQ developer
To achieve a true increase of definition and/or sharpness (acutance) in a classic MQ developer, the most commonly used chemical strategies are : 1. the diminution of solvent effect by diminution of the sodium sulfite content to 75-80 gr. by liter ; 2. the use of potassium bromide to...www.photrio.com
This post comes at a very timely moment as I have just started using/playing a bit with stand so I will be trying to follow and understand the results here (and avoid going too much into the detail of all these films and developers I don't know). For the moment I restrict myself to Foma FP100 for film and Rodinal for developer (the FP100 is my usual go to film that I get in bulk, being not rich). I use a piece of plastic waste pipe under the spiral to keep a good volume underneath (I don't think I have ever seen this advised, it just seemed like a good idea) and the Rodinal is diluted 1+100. 1 hour development with no agitation apart from at the start. So far so good!
Jo
Once a year
Have you tried Adox CHS II for comparison?
Thanks @chuckroast; reduced agitation schemes are something that continue to stimulate my imagination, so from time to time I try something out. So far I personally haven't found something in there that I can reliably say 'works' for me, at least not any better than more frequent agitation. Then again, I haven't spent 4 years of intensive trialing with it!
Those are some very nice shots and it seems your routine is spot on!Thanks for sharing your results.
When I do a 10 minute Rodinal semi-stand with Agfa Scala 50/HR-50, I don't get bromide drag or uneven development in a normal 3 reel Paterson tank. There is a 30 second initial agitation and then one very gentle inversion at the 5 minute mark. 22C and 1+25.
There are scenes I would expect unevenness to show up, if it was present. I think I have done about 20-30 rolls with this recipe now. It was devised by Ruediger Hartung.
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