Selenium Toning

[Sibbie Song]

Hello All,

I've been experimenting for the last couple of months with various toners; primarily sepia and selenium. I've read as much as I can find on the subject and I'm sure I haven't even scratched the surface of what's out there, but I'm at a loss with regards to getting the tone that I'm looking for. I've taken the much repeated advice of keeping meticulous notes and controling variables, but still no luck. What I'd like to get something of a cool bluish tone or something in that neighborhood. What I've ended up with is a variety of redish, brownish, pinkish, etc tones. I've tried Forte Polywarmtone FB, Forte Polygrade FB, Ilford MGIV FB, and Ilford Warmtone FB. Dektol has been my standard developer and KRST my selenium toner. Given the unbelievable number of variables in this process, I was hoping someone might point me in the right direction and save me some time and money. I'm not looking for an exact answer, unless you've got one; just a ballpark that I can use to start experimenting from. Thanks!

 

[ras351]

Of the permanent toners, Gold Toner will give you a subtle cold/bluish tone on most papers although it's not a cheap option. Iron blue toners will also give you a less subtle bluish tone however it's not considered permanent. I can recommend Tim Rudman's "The Photographer's Toning Book" which you may find helpful. KRST 1+9 can give coolish purple tones with Ilford MGIV FB.

Roger.

 

[Sibbie Song]

Thanks Roger,

May I ask what developer you use to get the cool purplish tones with Ilford MGIV FB?

 

[ras351]

Thanks Roger,

May I ask what developer you use to get the cool purplish tones with Ilford MGIV FB?

I used standard Ilford Multigrade developer but Dektol should give similar results given you're converting the silver to silver selenide. MGIV FB doesn't respond much to Selenium so it's quite subtle - unless you have a similar untoned print beside it it's often hard to see any change. I suggested MGIVFB as it doesn't tend towards purple/brown like some of the other papers. You may even find you need to use KRST at 1+3 before the change is obvious in the dish. You might also try some of your chlorobromide papers in KRST@1+39 (possibly 1+19) and snatch them before they go towards brown. I still suspect gold toner is the best option to give you the look you're after.

Roger.

 

[Simon R Galley]

Dear All,

Selenium Toning : NEW ILFORD Product :

Please see PRODUCT AVAILABILTY thread :

Simon

 

[Craig]

What I'd like to get something of a cool bluish tone or something in that neighborhood.

If that's what you're looking for, then you should be using the Ilford or Forte cooltone papers, not the warmtone paper. Also, use the new Ilford cooltone developer, and that combined with selenium toning will give you the cool tones you're looking for.

At best, using warmtone paper and selenium toning might bring it back to a neutral tone, but it most likely will stay warm, as you've seen.

 

[Sibbie Song]

Hi Craig,

Any specific recommendations on the paper? I tried Forte's Polygrade FB thinking it would be decently cool, but still got the redish tone even with several different dilutions of selenium.

 

[Craig]

Forte tones very rapidly in selenium, its very easy to overdo the toning and end up with prints that look like the landing on Mars. I'd try the Ilford cooltone, with their cooltone developer and then see if that gives the result you want, and then tone if necessary.

The cooltone takes longer to develop than other papers in order to get the full cool effect, it can be up to 5 min to fully develop, so be patient.

 

[Pearl]

If you soak your Ilford print first in a solution of about a 5% borax in water first, then wash it again, it will tone beautifully in selenium.

 

[mikeb_z5]

If you soak your Ilford print first in a solution of about a 5% borax in water first, then wash it again, it will tone beautifully in selenium.

how long of a soak?

Mike

 

[Sibbie Song]

Hi Pearl,

Sounds very interesting. Would that give a bluish gray tone then?

 

[jovo]

If you soak your Ilford print first in a solution of about a 5% borax in water first, then wash it again, it will tone beautifully in selenium.

What a cool idea. I'll try that as soon as I get my darkroom back.