If you think it would be useful I would be happy to send you one of my "normal" 35mm negatives along with the resulting print using my D2V and 80mm lens. That way you could compare your output with mine. Just contact me off post.
Seeking input for exposure time using new-to-me Omega D-II
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Dont get too hung up on recommended print developing times.
I use Dektol mostly with FB paper and depending on what tones I want I have gone to 4 minutes (the developer can become somewhat exhausted/slower).
Bottom line is you print, evaluate, and reprint.
One negative can give quite different results based on all your choices like dodging, burning etc and then when the print is in the developer I even will use my fingers sometimes to work the developer into highlight areas to "heat" the developer a bit from body temp/friction and work the developer into those tones a bit more if they are lacking.
Bottom line is don't get too wrapped up in published times, techniques... experiment. The accomplishments are well worth any effort and it's much more rewarding to me than digi.
I use Dektol mostly with FB paper and depending on what tones I want I have gone to 4 minutes (the developer can become somewhat exhausted/slower).
Bottom line is you print, evaluate, and reprint.
One negative can give quite different results based on all your choices like dodging, burning etc and then when the print is in the developer I even will use my fingers sometimes to work the developer into highlight areas to "heat" the developer a bit from body temp/friction and work the developer into those tones a bit more if they are lacking.
Bottom line is don't get too wrapped up in published times, techniques... experiment. The accomplishments are well worth any effort and it's much more rewarding to me than digi.
Update 1
I went shooting today and got two rolls of film exposed. Since my last post, I have been reading up on Kodak's instruction notes and I found in ONE of them, F-4043 for Tmax400, says that the posted development time for film are for creating good negative to be used for diffusion type enlargers. The document I was using, J-109 for XTOL, didn't mention anything about this. It goes on to say that for condenser type enlargers, contrast needs to be reduced by reducing the development time. I have an condenser type enlarger. It then points to a different page. On this page, it lists how much time to reduce for given developers but XTOL wasn't listed, so I guessed and reduced 20%. I also started using 1:1 dilution rather than full strength. Timing for this trial was 5:36 at 25C. The result is much nicer looking negatives but it was little on the light side. For the second roll, I increased the development time to 6:00. Got little darker but far lighter than my first negative that was developed.
Hopefully, I can try producing prints using these negatives tomorrow.
Right now, my goal is to produce a negative that prints well with #2 filter in somewhat more normal exposure time.
I went shooting today and got two rolls of film exposed. Since my last post, I have been reading up on Kodak's instruction notes and I found in ONE of them, F-4043 for Tmax400, says that the posted development time for film are for creating good negative to be used for diffusion type enlargers. The document I was using, J-109 for XTOL, didn't mention anything about this. It goes on to say that for condenser type enlargers, contrast needs to be reduced by reducing the development time. I have an condenser type enlarger. It then points to a different page. On this page, it lists how much time to reduce for given developers but XTOL wasn't listed, so I guessed and reduced 20%. I also started using 1:1 dilution rather than full strength. Timing for this trial was 5:36 at 25C. The result is much nicer looking negatives but it was little on the light side. For the second roll, I increased the development time to 6:00. Got little darker but far lighter than my first negative that was developed.
Hopefully, I can try producing prints using these negatives tomorrow.
Right now, my goal is to produce a negative that prints well with #2 filter in somewhat more normal exposure time.
Hello tkamiya...
F4043 hints that those who have condenser enlargers should also increase exposure when reducing development time. It's not something strange, it's what we call pull processing; they just don't state it explicitly. On page 8 there's a note with an asterisk and it says "If you select one of these factors, add one stop to your camera exposure", it's under the table. The reason behind this is that shadow detail will be too thin and it will be at the lower left part of the characteristic curve. At that part, (and given the reduced development) the tonal separation will not be sufficient, so detail at that part won't show up nicely at the prints. You can also have a look at page 10, where you'll find contrast index curves. If you want a CI of 0,45, then 7:20 at 20 degrees C with Xtol 1+1 will probably do it, but then you'll probably need to shoot at 200ISO. In any case, only you can say what's good for you and you need to experiment.
F4043 hints that those who have condenser enlargers should also increase exposure when reducing development time. It's not something strange, it's what we call pull processing; they just don't state it explicitly. On page 8 there's a note with an asterisk and it says "If you select one of these factors, add one stop to your camera exposure", it's under the table. The reason behind this is that shadow detail will be too thin and it will be at the lower left part of the characteristic curve. At that part, (and given the reduced development) the tonal separation will not be sufficient, so detail at that part won't show up nicely at the prints. You can also have a look at page 10, where you'll find contrast index curves. If you want a CI of 0,45, then 7:20 at 20 degrees C with Xtol 1+1 will probably do it, but then you'll probably need to shoot at 200ISO. In any case, only you can say what's good for you and you need to experiment.
Anon,
Thank you very much for pointing this out.
Thank you very much for pointing this out.
Full results are in!!
Problems pointed out and the results:
1) Development time should be 90 seconds, not 60 seconds .... made no difference
2) Lamp may be low output .... this turned out to be 1/2 of problem
3) Film was over developed and contrast was too high .... this was the other 1/2 of the problem
This time, I carefully read the Kodak's instructions and made adjustment to agitation procedure and development time taking into account I am using Condenser type enlarger. This time, the film is visibly less contrasty compared to the last try. In fact, it looks more normal this time.
After changing the bulb, I made what I consider to be a normal print using 90 seconds development time.
Then, I reduced the development time to 60 seconds. No changes were observed.
Then I changed the bulb. The print was quite a bit lighter.
Right now, using f/8 and #2 filter, I can get a good result in anywhere from 15 to 25 seconds, not 45 to 60 seconds.
Thank you everyone for putting up with me with all the beginner questions and carefully guiding me to a successful results.
Problems pointed out and the results:
1) Development time should be 90 seconds, not 60 seconds .... made no difference
2) Lamp may be low output .... this turned out to be 1/2 of problem
3) Film was over developed and contrast was too high .... this was the other 1/2 of the problem
This time, I carefully read the Kodak's instructions and made adjustment to agitation procedure and development time taking into account I am using Condenser type enlarger. This time, the film is visibly less contrasty compared to the last try. In fact, it looks more normal this time.
After changing the bulb, I made what I consider to be a normal print using 90 seconds development time.
Then, I reduced the development time to 60 seconds. No changes were observed.
Then I changed the bulb. The print was quite a bit lighter.
Right now, using f/8 and #2 filter, I can get a good result in anywhere from 15 to 25 seconds, not 45 to 60 seconds.
Thank you everyone for putting up with me with all the beginner questions and carefully guiding me to a successful results.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tkamiya9/4025029170/sizes/l/in/set-72157622491018533/
#2 filter, exposed for 15 seconds
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tkamiya9/4025028518/sizes/l/in/set-72157622491018533/
#2 filter, exposed for 25 seconds
#2 filter, exposed for 15 seconds
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tkamiya9/4025028518/sizes/l/in/set-72157622491018533/
#2 filter, exposed for 25 seconds
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