Seeking Advice on Hasselblad 1000f

[russljames]

Greetings,

I write for help to determine the general reputation and performance of the Hasselblad 1000f. I might soon be an absolute newbie to the Hasselblad world, being given an opportunity to buy a very clean body, back, and Zeiss f2.8 80mm for about a three hundred dollar price tag. I plan to shoot the gear not sell it. At the same time I don’t want to be walking into a non-repairable problem waiting to happen in my near future.

In doing initial online research it appears to be a less desirable model mainly because of the focal plane shutter. Some comments made about it remind me of Leica M users I know who avoid the R series mainly because it deviates from the “essence” of things deserving Barnack’s pedigree. I’m not reading much that says the Zeiss or Kodak glass for 1000f is inferior or that images suffer because of design. And it seems that as long as the user knows how to load the back properly and match the white/red dots before trying to jamb a back on to the camera, it should function more or less without issue.

Here is where I would appreciate a bit more depth on the topic from those who can offer an experienced opinion. Thanks so much for helping if you can do so.

 

[jochen]

the only rumour I heard is that the focal plane shutter was unreliable and prone to often failures and needed repairs. Therefore Hasselblad switched over to the central shutter design of the 500-series.

 

[Dr Croubie]

The shutter is the biggest point of failure imho, make sure you inspect it well before you buy.
I've got a Kiev 88 which is a direct ripoff of the Hassy 1000, but mine's got a cloth shutter.
The only user errors you can do to either of them is mismatching the red/white dots, which isn't that hard to get right (just don't get freaked out when loading film, the dot changes when you hit the first frame).
And this applies to the Kiev, I think applies to the hassy too:Always shoot, then wind on, then change shutter speed. Don't ever ever ever shoot, then change shutter speed, then wind on.
The glass is as good as anything you'll get on later models, just not as advanced coatings.

As long as it works when you get it, and the glass is clear, it's a bargain price. Is the lens a Planar, Biometar, Ektar, or Tessar? I've seen the Tessars and Ektars go for $200 by themselves in good nick.
I know you said you wanted to shoot it, but $300 is a very decent price. If you use it until it breaks you can still probably just sell it then for about the same price.

 

[Douglas Fairbank]

A great camera to collect but perhaps not to use on a regular basis. It is approx 40 years since Hasselblad last serviced them, I repaired a few when I started with the company but not since then. I think a 500C could be a better choice for you, especially if you want to get more lenses later.

 

[gone]

What Douglas said. As The 500C is also an old, complicated camera (but nothing like the 1000F), I would strongly suggest buying from KEH where you'll get a warranty and a return privilege. A quick looks shows that you can put together a complete kit w/ an early 80 chrome lens for less than $550.

 

[jspillane]

It is a very good price for what I have seen them go for, but know that a camera of that age and complexity WILL need to be CLA'd eventually. I think most people buying 1000 series Hasselblads are collectors, not shooters.
If you are looking for a 6x6 SLR that will be reliable in the field but cheaper than a Hasselblad 500 series, take a look at the Bronica SQs. You can get a kit for less than $300 if you are patient, and they will be far newer and more trouble free than a 1000f. If you want to invest the time and money into shooting with the Hasselblad system, I would say it is probably worth it to move up to a 500 series body.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

It is a very good price for what I have seen them go for, but know that a camera of that age and complexity WILL need to be CLA'd eventually. I think most people buying 1000 series Hasselblads are collectors, not shooters.
If you are looking for a 6x6 SLR that will be reliable in the field but cheaper than a Hasselblad 500 series, take a look at the Bronica SQs. You can get a kit for less than $300 if you are patient, and they will be far newer and more trouble free than a 1000f. If you want to invest the time and money into shooting with the Hasselblad system, I would say it is probably worth it to move up to a 500 series body.

+1 on this and the other advice above. Get a Bronica or save a little more and piece a 500C kit together. Chances are you'll be buying a 1000f that will need work soon. At that point you're total could exceed the 500C price.

 

[Hatchetman]

I recently saw a sweet Pentax 6x7 kit go on eBay for like $320 dollars. Crazy.

 

[russljames]

Thank you all for the comments so far. It would come with a Tessar 2.8 80mm. I actually have been using the gear on loan for a few days to shoot test rolls and evaluate. I also plan to have local camera repair service evaluate the shutter/speeds before I go much further. I do note that the metal curtain has some “wrinkles” in it. But this is also true of my Canon P Rangefinder, and is generally considered a non-issue with that line of cameras.

I haven’t noticed the dot changing colors when reversing the knob backward to reset for frame (1). I’ve read the manual for the camera quite carefully which suggests the golden rule of “always advance to the next frame after taking a shot”. Thus, body always has a white dot on it, as does the back, before I attach it. I was also informed about the importance of winding before changing shutter speeds.

I am not presently at a loss for quality 6x6 cameras (or 6x7 with a Bronica GS-1), so this would simply be a relatively low dollar way to enter the esteemed world of Hasselblad. If I read your collective suggestions correctly so far, it seems that the price for this one is quite good and may not be a bad investment even if it does give-it-up down the road. But a 500c does afford more reliability and variety in lens choice and that this one is better for the display case than being an every day shooter.

I appreciate the advice!

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

While the 1000 F definitely has it's place in history when people talk about the "esteemed world of Hasselblad" my sense is they're typically talking about the 500 series and onward...

 

[RalphLambrecht]

try to go for a 500 c or cm instead. you'll be much more up-to-date that way and they are plentiful.

 

[outwest]

I once picked up the 1000F's predecessor the 1600F for a song as it was jammed. I opened it up and somehow got it mostly working. It had the standard Ektar and the 135 Ektar with it. Turned out it was something like the 500th Hasselblad made. The lenses were drop dead good (Victor went to Zeiss because Kodak's lenses became too expensive.) I found a Tessar for it and tested it against the Ektar, and as much as I respect Tessars, there was no contest. The Ektars were modified Heliars and were made when Kodak was at the top of its game. That said I traded it to a collector for a nice 500CM with a Planar and have no regrets. Just for fun, I also had one of the Russian 1000F types that was DOA and got a few speeds working. The lenses didn't interchange with the Hassie ones and I sold it as was for $80. If the Swedes had trouble with the old shutters you can imagine what to expect from the Russians. Get a 500CM.

 

[Nick Merritt]

This may be piling on a bit, but my two cents -- the price is very good for the set, and I'd be tempted myself. But then, I already have a 500CM so this would be for more occasional use. I'm really not sure who works on the 1000s these days, so you need to keep in mind that this would be a bit of a gamble. One of the 500 series cameras makes a lot more sense for regular use, but if you are aware of the potential risks, then go for it. As I said, it's a very tempting price. There are plenty of 500s out there if you want to get one of those down the road.

 

[russljames]

Thanks to all for the additional advice, and Nick- yes it is quite tempting, as for now it does work just fine. Am I correct in that the C12 back and WLF on this 1000f would companion a 500c(m) body? That being the case, I would need only a 500 series body and lens of choice to be in that game as well,....down the road of course....

Rationalizing is just too fun a thought process on which to pass up, especially when it involves the idea of getting even more gear. Thanks again!

Russ

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Thanks to all for the additional advice, and Nick- yes it is quite tempting, as for now it does work just fine. Am I correct in that the C12 back and WLF on this 1000f would companion a 500c(m) body? That being the case, I would need only a 500 series body and lens of choice to be in that game as well,....down the road of course....

Rationalizing is just too fun a thought process on which to pass up, especially when it involves the idea of getting even more gear. Thanks again!

Russ

On second thought if you have it in hand, have been testing it and it is working quite well, and the back and finders fit a 500 series then yes, buy it. I would.

 

[jspillane]

Am I correct in that the C12 back and WLF on this 1000f would companion a 500c(m) body?

Be careful with the back on a 500 camera. Old 1000f and 1600f backs don't work on the new bodies, although new backs (I believe) will work on the old bodies. A quick search indicates that if the magazines serial number is above 20000 it should work on all Hasselblad V series cameras. The issue is that there is a pin-lock on the pre-500c backs, and the newer bodies have no way of triggering it.

All the WLF and prisms should fit on anything old or new (you can also use all Kiev finders on Hasselblad bodies). The newer WLF's open and close much more smoothly.