Grain becomes more visible at 1+1, but it is good and sharp. I've never tried 1+3 since grain isn't my thing. Pan F+ gets that really silky-smooth look when used undiluted. That's the look I prefer.gnashings said:It seems that almost everyone scoffs at stock solution, and even 1+1. It seems 1+3 is the preferred dilution by those who use it.
I find the box instructions to be fine and follow them exactly: 9 min, 1+0, 20 deg C, EI 25.gnashings said:I plan to use the times I see on the MDC (which seem to be exactly Ilford's times) - if anyone has any suggestions other than that, I would love to read those, too.
George Papantoniou said:I've only used it for MF and LF negs at 1+3, so I cannot comment on the grain (doesn't really present a problem at the sizes I print). The tonal range and plasticity of the negatives is interesting, though. Highlight contrast seems to me somewhat low, a thing that is convenient when you shoot under high-contrast lighting conditions.
I should add that Perceptol is not really recommended for developing underexposed negatives, like the other one you're talking about, so it's a good idea to soup it in another dev.
John Simmons said:I rountinely use perceptol diluted 1+2. The late great barry thornton wrote of this combination in both his books for excellent fine grain and apparent sharpness. I use it with across on my 4x5 negs in tubes with constant agitation for 16 minutes at 68F. The massive development chart is a great resource for this developer because they give you times for the 1+2 dilutions for many films.
That is the purpose of fine grain developers to reduce the grain of coarse grain films.Petzi said:What is the point of using fine grain developer on coarse grain film?
Is it overkill? I mean, if it's no more expensive, complicated, or time consuming, why not use a fine grain developer by default? It sure would be easier for me to leave the RB67, tripod, and Pan F+ at home and just take the little Pentax, zoom lens, and Delta 3200 into the mountains. If I'm already going to all that trouble to get a high quality, fine grained negative, why would I choose a general purpose developer? I can dilute Perceptol depending on the look I want: 1+0:Smooth. 1+1:Sharp. Easy.gnashings said:I think I wanted to try the PanF Perceptol combo just because I am used to shooting with such grainy combos that I suppose I wanted to do a little "overkill".
Gerald Koch said:That is the purpose of fine grain developers to reduce the grain of coarse grain films.
But then there is the speed factor. You must often use a fast film and fine grain developers allow you to reduce the coarse grain that they often have. It's all a compromise between speed, grain, tonality, etc.Petzi said:I realise that. But then you could use fine grain film in the first place, no?
Sparky said:That 10 seconds per minute agitation program you have going there is pretty intense, Sparky! (oh wait - that's MY name!). Chances are - if you're shooting Pan F at 25 (I'd recommend 32) your dev. time is going to be around, what - 14 mins?? (I haven't done this combo in about 10 years! - though it was my mainstay throughout the 80s) I'd give minimal (but violent!) agitation. My recommendation would be every 90-120 sec. and keeping it under two seconds agitation if you can. Try not to repeat the same agitation pattern either if possible. Then you can capitalize on the lovely tonality and acutance of this combo! 1+3 is the way to do it!
How come i cant in toronto or waterloo?gnashings said:PS. Tony, I can get it over the counter at my local Henry's. Its $3.69 CDN per box to make 1L, and each such box weighs 139g. If it would make sense to ship it to you, I'd be happy to help you out. I would need an address to get you a shipping quote.
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