Search for a Durable, Fully Manual SLR

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Sirius Glass

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Unless you need a faster sync speed, I'd recommend (since I can speak for it (haven't tried other manufacturers)) the Minolta SR-T 101 or 102. Maybe not the femur, but you could probably break bones with it.

SR-1, SR-7 ... anything that will take MC or MD Rokkor lenses.

Steve
 

John R.

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I would suggest one of these four but there are probably others well suited as well:

Contax RTS series, Canon F1, Nikon F2, Olympus OM4Ti
 

eSFotos

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--heavy metal body

If you are like me who likes heavy cameras, then OM and Pentax M series are not for you. Although these are small and light, they are very good cameras. I have them and use them but not without power winder.

Many already mentioned but what you have described as your criteria fits nicely with Nikon F2. Cheap but wonderful Non-AI lenses are there waiting for you.
 

flatulent1

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Canon FTb
Canon F1
Minolta SRT series

Lenses for these are cheap and plentiful.
 

Ektagraphic

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I highly reccomend the Nikkormat FTn. This is an awesome camera. It is very durable and extremely well made. It doesn't require a battery for operation and has shutter speeds up to 1/1000.
 

Uncle Bill

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Since you had a FM10 and chances are you have some Nikkor lenses, I would look into the FM, FM2n, Nikkormat Ftn, Nikon F Photomic FTn and the Nikon F2 Photomic.
 

Uncle Bill

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If the old Vietnam War myth is true, Nikon Fs can stop 7.62 Ak rounds.
 

Pumal

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OM-1
Nikon F
Nikon F2
Nikon FM2
Nikon FE
Minolta SRT-101
Canon F-1
Canon EF
Canon FTb
(all briks)
 

keithwms

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Fm3a... perhaps the last great 35mm film SLR. As far as I know, this is the only recently produced camera that is built like they used to build 'em. Seriously.

I do enjoy my om1.

If perchance you're open to an RF and making the decision based on reliability and durability, I think I'd take a very hard look at the (new) zeiss ikon, a.k.a. ZI.

The Fm3a and ZI both get my vote(s) as the best new 35mm film cameras on the market. Both have a very solid, robust feel, pack very well, and give 35mm analogue photographers just about everything they could want, in terms of modern amenities at the right price.
 

Steve Smith

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SR-1, SR-7 ... anything that will take MC or MD Rokkor lenses.

I have had a Minolta XE-1 (XE-7 in the US) for about a year now. It's my favourite 35mm camera now.


Steve.
 

dynachrome

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Manual cameras I enjoy using include: Canon F-1, Canon F-1n, Canon EF, Canon FTb, Canon FTbN, Canon TX, Minolta SRT-101, Minolta SRT-201, Konica Autoreflex T2, Konica Autoreflex T3N, Nikkormat FTN. Nikkormat FT2, Nikkormat FT3, Pentax K1000. These can all be used with full manual control and all have shutters which work without batteries. I just shot a roll of color print film today in a Canon EF. These cameras have not been made for a while so you would probably want to get them serviced.
 

getalifeagain

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I am not nearly as experienced as the other commentors, but I like the Leicaflex SL2.
 

brianmquinn

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Just a comment, you said
"heavy metal body--durable"
A metal body alone does not make a camera durable. Drop a metal body and the camera may never be the same. A plastic body may bounce and survive. Some of the most durable bodies are the plastic composite bodies. Think about the Pro Nikon and Canon bodies. I own a Pentax MZ-S and it is very well built. It should last me as least as long as my 35 year old and still perfect Pentax K2 body. Come to think of it it may outlast me.
 

mopar_guy

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If you have to have a camera that is heavy, I can sell you some lead Ingots and some duct tape.
 

Ira Rush

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Tis True..... Bullet Proof

If the old Vietnam War myth is true, Nikon Fs can stop 7.62 Ak rounds.

Harding, Colin. “Bullet Proof .” Black & White Photography. April 2006, Issue 58: 79

History of the Nikon F and a blurb about Don MuCullin VietNam era photographer who in 1970, had a bullet stopped by his Nikon F.

and

Conway Morris, Roderick (1997, October 30). Don McCullin's Harrowing Images of War. The New York Times.
Retrieved from http://www.nytimes.com/1997/10/30/style/30iht-don.t.html?pagewanted=print
 

elekm

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There's nothing wrong with plastic on the outside. However, plastic on the outside often meant plastic on the inside, often in the gearing. The industry worked hard to cut production costs and maximize profits, and the use of plastic in cameras helped to achieve this. Sometimes it worked. Sometimes it didn't.

Most of the Japanese consumer models in the 1980s up through 2000 are made with lightweight parts. The pro models are different. Nearly all Japanese cameras since the 1960s use foam seals that will need to be replaced if the camera is 20 years old or older.

The Nikon FM10 is made by Cosina and mostly likely is made for lightweight use. A fine camera, but no better or worse than its contemporaries.

In K-mount, the 1970s models (K1000, K2, KX, MX) are excellent cameras.

I've used a Nikon FE, FM, FT3, F2A and EL2. All well made.

The Yashica/Kyocera Contax are excellent cameras with Carl Zeiss lenses that have an excellent reputation. Also, the focusing screens in the Contax cameras tend to be brighter than other cameras.

I've been working with a Minolta XD-11. Excellent camera. Very sturdy. Small camera.

The Olympus OM1, OM2 and others (not the OM10) are small cameras, mostly metal and have a large following. The single-digit OMs have their shutter speed dial at the base of the lens mount.
 
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Nikon F. I have two F bodies. All legends are true. They will mount the newest Nikon lenses, and the older ones. Mine are worn brassy on the corners. You can get waist-level-finders and the large sports finder for these, along with various focusing screens.

Konica Autoreflex T3. Great Hexanon (Kiron) lenses. Tough body. Same Copal titanium shutter as the Nikon. Cheap, cheap, cheap, even for a 50mm, f 1:1.4 lens.

All of the old Japanese cameras will need new light seals. Not a big deal, but always needed.
 

WarEaglemtn

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Nikon F2.
Nikon F3... if you want a bit of automation and a camera that set the standard for more than a decade and still works great today. You can get them for less than the FM3a.
Don't piss around with the consumer grade cameras when you can go with the top pro models for the same price today on the used market.
 

dynachrome

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Durable, Fully Manual SLR

No Konica lenses were made by Kino Precision - makers of Kiron lenses. Several SLR lenses marked Konica were made by Tokina. These included the last 24/2.8, the 21/2.8, the 80-200/4 one touch, the 80-200/4.5 one touch, the 35/2.8 compact, the 28-135/4-4.6 and the 70-150/4. There were prototypes of the 28-85/3.5-4.5 Tokina AT-X which has the Konica name but these were never mass produced.

What about the Konica shutters? These were mechanical vertically running Copal Square shutters - Autoreflex A and T series - which were silimar to the ones used in mechanical Nikkormat cameras. As far as I know the blades were made of thin steel and not titanium. The shutters in the Nikon F, F2 and F3 and Canon F-1, F-1n and F-1N were horizontally running titanium foil units. That's why they all had slow flash synch speeds.

Konica cameras and lenses are very reasonably priced for the quality they offer. Of the full size mostly metal Konica SLRs I would recommend the T3N. You can look for one and get it serviced or you can buy one which is already overhauled from Greg Weber - gweber@webercamera.com or (402) 721-3873. The overhauled camera will be adjusted to use MS-76 batteries so the mercury battery issue will not be a problem.
 

nsurit

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Olympus OM 1 or 1n. Battery goes south . . . no problem. Great optics. Nice macro lenses/system. Affordable. Best for those who don't really care what the name plate says, but rather how the camera handles and if it is the right tool for your needs. Would need a CLA and conversion to modern batteries at zuiko.com. They are small, easy to get use to and work horses. I have huge hands and handling an OM is not a problem. Bill Barber
 
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