Seal 210 Press--never mounted a print-source of materials at reasonable cost !

[JosBurke]

Seal 210 Press--never mounted a print-source of materials at reasonable cost ! Color and B&W--RC, of course, and fiber---fiber being my priority for 8x10 contact prints or 11 x14 contacts---best bang (price/quality) for my beginning buck source wise?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I'm not sure what the question is here, if there even is one. Are you looking to buy a Seal drymount press?

 

[David Brown]

Light Impressions has everything you would ever need to dry mount. I'm sure there are others. Maybe some of the art supply houses such as Dick Blick.

 

[Donald Miller]

In the event that you are looking for materials to mount prints, the sources that have been mentioned are good. If you want a how to on mounting, this is the process that I use.

I use seal release paper above and beneath the print and mount. I have bought this in rolls. A roll lasts a long time since this is reused. I fold it in half and it has the fold at the rear of the press. I have always used Seal colormount tissue. I know a lot of other black and white photogs that use the same material and it has not given me any problem in over twenty years. Press temps should be 190-200 degrees with this tissue. I have bought it in rolls but it is available as sheets too from what I recall.

You will need a tacking iron to tack the tissue to the rear of the print and the front of the mount. I flatten the print, (in the case of fiber) in the press prior to mounting. Next tack the print to the board. Next insert the tacked print between the release paper and under a spare mounting board (to prevent dimples in the print face.

Press the print for a couple of minutes and immediately after removal twist the print mount slightly at opposite corners to assure that you have a good mount.

 

[Peter De Smidt]

Seal's recommended method is roughly as follows. Dry the prints and mat boards, one at a time, in the press between two mat boards. (I use the same mat board cut to the platten size.) Tack a piece of dry mount adhesive to the back of the print. Make just one small spot in the middle of one of the edged. [Lay the print face down on a clean surface. Put dry mount tissue on top of print. Align. Put a small piece of release paper over the area to tack. Touch down the tacking iron with light pressure on the release paper for a second or two. Lift print up to see if it is tacked at that spot.] Make sure that you have to mat boards covered with release paper in the press with the release paper side facing the middle. Put the print with dry-mount tissue in between the sheets of release paper. (I've taped the release paper to the mat baords I leave in the press. Thus one side of each mat board is bare, which helps with drying prints and mat boards, and one side of each mat board is covered with release paper.) Close press for about 30 seconds. Take print out. The back of the print will now be evenly covered with adhesive. Trim print. Place print on mounting board. Align. Tack through the top of the bring in one spot on the edge. Put print/mounting board in press and press for the recommended time and temp. Take print out and put under weight to cool.

This method makes sure that the adhesive is exactly the right size for the print.

This is Seal's book on drymounting.

 

[panastasia]

Seal's recommended method ....The back of the print will now be evenly covered with adhesive. Trim print. This method makes sure that the adhesive is exactly the right size for the print.
This is Seal's book on drymounting.

This can be done with just the tacking iron (trim only the tissue).

I recommend:
Only tack the tissue onto back of print, trim tissue, align on matboard - tack 2 places on matboard by lifting print slightly away from tissue - place print/tissue/matboard assembly in press (between release paper). This prevents anything from shifting while placing in the press.

 

[Jim Jones]

A tacking iron is a convenient accessory. A second-hand iron for pressing clothes also works, and for a small fraction of the cost of the tacking iron. I have both, and rarely use the tacking iron.

 

[KenM]

Best place to buy a tacking iron is from a hobby shop - tacking (or sealing/covering) irons are used to build model airplanes. I only paid about $15 for my tacking iron, which looks and behaves much like the more expensive 'Photographic' tacking irons

And, I'm ready to build model airplanes

 

[John Kasaian]

Freestyle in Hollywood. If you're looking for a press check Craig's List (I lucked out an just got a 150 Jumbo on the 'bay for $9.00 )

 

[JBrunner]

Best place to buy a tacking iron is from a hobby shop - tacking (or sealing/covering) irons are used to build model airplanes. I only paid about $15 for my tacking iron, which looks and behaves much like the more expensive 'Photographic' tacking irons

And, I'm ready to build model airplanes

Yup, got mine for $12. Exactly identical, except for the brand tag, to the one at the photo shop for $89.