I've done camera scans before and I think they aren't worth the grief unless you set up a workstation that is ready to go all the time. I already have a Nikon scanner that will eat a whole roll of 35mm at a time while I am doing other things. For 120, 4x5, 16mm and Minox I use an old Canon flatbed scanner and I have that streamlined with Vuescan. I print everything in the darkroom though so my "standards" for scans is lower, but it works well for proofs. It would even be fine for posting on the internet but I don't post neg scans on the internet.
If you want to do camera scans of Minox, and you want to use the full resolution of the camera, you are going to have to use a bellows. I have an old Canon FL bellows that works great with a Sony mirrorless camera. Not so much for your Nikon, but a bellows will do nonetheless. For Minox I reverse a 30mm CE Rokkor Minolta enlarging lens. Works fine. It is a bit fiddly though. Much easier to toss them on the flatbed and scan them that way. Again, my standards for scanning are lower since I still print in the darkroom.
These days I mostly just do camera scans for stitching color neg. I still find that to be a pain. Color correction can get complicated. I've tried a bunch of ways but I end up doing it manually in LAB mode in Photoshop. I won't even try to explain how that works. I'll eventually filter my light source to negate the mask if I ever get serious about it. The upside to camera scanning is the resolution can be amazing. Better than a drum scanner if you are willing to stitch.
Thank you. 
