The optimal scanning procedure was discussed here a few threads ago: scan at the max resolution your scanner gives you, then take the huge file and downscale it to match the effective resolution of your scan...
For sake of clarity, is that "...scan at the actual resolution limit of your scanner..."? Like, for instance, scanning at a resolution not higher than 2400dpi with V700/750? That's what I would do exactly. I would never use higher resolutions with a V700/750 simply because that would be simply loosing time (scan time and labor to rez-down) and storage. I don't bother scanning @ 2400dpi with my good-old Epson 2450 for instance, I prefer to use it @ 1600dpi which is the max. it will give at its best.
Regards,
Loris.
With the V700 and 750, the 6400spi setting engages an optic with a wider aperture and higher rez. You can pull about 2600ppi or slightly more from it. Thus, it's better to scan at 6400spi, and then downsample to 3200ppi to make sure all the rez is captured. Scanning at 2400 is not quite enough to pull everything from this scanner.
The HR lens is engaged whenever one chooses film area guide in the scanner software, the SHR lens is engaged when you choose film holder in the software
40 lpmm is not so bad! Unless you use a sturdy tripod, mirror lockup, careful manual focussing and a damn sharp lens, the scanner won't really be your limit! The nice thing about film is that you can always move to a larger format if you really need more detail.
40 lpmm is not so bad! Unless you use a sturdy tripod, mirror lockup, careful manual focussing and a damn sharp lens, the scanner won't really be your limit! The nice thing about film is that you can always move to a larger format if you really need more detail.
You mistake MTF number from controlled lens tests with real world hand held shooting. If I chase my daughter around with my camera, hand held, lens wide open, no flash, auto focus, well, you get the idea. No chance I'll get real 40 lpmm, no matter what camera and lens you'd give me. Needless to say that my EOS 3 + 85L can give me higher resolution if I used that camera for carefully set up landscape work, but not for the style of shooting I do with a 35mm format SLR.I'm sorry but 40 lines per mm (l/mm) is nothing near of something you would expect from a good (not even high quality) 35mm system (even in a casual shooting context). Anything giving resolutions below 77 l/mm (lines, not line pairs!) in reasonable conditions, I'd call a toy camera... (This is the starting point, I'd normally only pay for something significantly better...) Do the math, and you'll agree with me...
Despite the ravings of many 85L owners, according to MTF measurements the 85L is not particularly sharp wide open, and most fast lenses are rather soft unless stopped down. Add to that the fact that the AF takes no advantage of apertures larger than F/2.8, and you get quite inaccurate focussing at F/1.2, too.I use RF's (w/ fast quality lenses) and don't chase children. That's quite not the usual / mundane hand-held shooting context anyway, it's a special case... OTOH, AF sensors have usually a sensing capacity of at least 50 l/mm even in case of entry level cameras, and wide open usually means better resolution in case of high-end lenses.
Given that my daughter (2 years old) won't cooperate with any tripod based shooting, "mundane" hand held shooting is my only option. If I want higher resolution and have more time to get everything right, I use my RZ67.40 l/mm means you're limited with 4x enlargement, I mean before prints (roughly 4x6" in this case) start to get blurry to the naked eye. 35mm film/format isn't that much bad...
Add to that the fact that the AF takes no advantage of apertures larger than F/2.8, and you get quite inaccurate focussing at F/1.2, too.
From what I heard the AF sensors do not take advantage of light rays from further to the outside as what would be F/2.8. So while AF takes place with the lens wide open, the extra light does not help.a common misunderstanding. Recall that AF is completed with the lens wide open (unless you're using one of the rapid shooting AI Servo modes where the stopping down remains stopped down to speed the things up). Even still the camera does its first focus with the lens open, as it only stops down during the moment of taking.
BTW, when one tests a resolution target with a camera there is a formula that takes into account the actual focal length of the lens being used, and the distance of the lens from the camera. So regardless of whether one is using a 6X9 folder or a 35mm camera the focal length of the lens and the distance to the target is part of the equation to calculate real resolution in lp/mm.
Hello Sandy
if I've made some false assumptions I would be pleased if you would point them out.
I was not suggesting that what you wrote was incorrect,
Not any longer. That scanner has been discontinued.
Don Bryant
Oops, I guess you discovered my error in thinking. Yes, I indeed and mistankenly read 40 line pairs per millimeter, where the original post actually wrote about lines per millimeter. I would still hope that the Canon scanner can do better than 40 lines per millimeter, since that would amount to no more than roughly 1000 dpi, a pretty poor value even for flat bed scanners. 40 line pairs per millimeter sounded a lot more like typical numbers from decent flat beds, I guess that's why I misread the post. My bad.In my view, there's definitely a problem in the assumption of 40 "lines per mm" (not line pairs! I wouldn't jump into the discussion that way if the figure in question was lp/mm...) is adequate and can't be surpassed in casual shooting conditions (casual = hand held / no tripod / no mirror-lock-up), if I know something about 35mm systems...
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