My experience is that some do, and others don't. I tried out many of my film camera lenses on my Z mirrorless when I first got it. My 55 macro rivals any of it's newer brethren, others do ok, but not great in comparison to the digital oriented lenses. Two other stand outs are the Nikkor 180, and a Rollei 50 mm Planar, both are up to whatever level of pixel-peeping you want to do.By not being compatible I meant they will suffer in terms of image quality to the digital format…!
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metering a scene with a digital camera for film exposure is less than optimal?
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Why carry the extra weight and volume of an additional digital camera body? Invest in a good light meter instead. For example the Sekonic L-308s.
I carry my iPhone with the myLightMeter pro…!
I am trying to save weight by not carrying the good light meter
Better than carrying an extra digital camera only to be used as a light meter.
so you do recommend carrying and using a light meter that was designed for film and further modified by an expert to get the best results?
thank you
so you do recommend carrying and using a light meter that was designed for film and further modified by an expert to get the best results?
thank you
Is reciprocity failure similar or drastically different with film or digital?
Have you tried a DSLR on a 4x5” camera? It doesn’t work well with wide lenses, at least not at infinity, because the adapter, mirror box, and shutter all set the sensor back from the film plane.
There is the assumption that a vintage lens reviewed through a digital camera would not review as good if reviewed through a film camera, the one the lens was designed for.
Does film allow a vintage lens to show more potential than the same lens used on a digital camera…?
we should wait for Noma Duda (?) to answer this question), for my part, I'm using my old nickel lenses on the new digital cameras without any problem.
Better than carrying an extra digital camera only to be used as a light meter.
My micro 4/3 camera weighs and is sized about the same as my Minolta IVf Autometer (which I also have in my bag). The digital camera also provide histograms, blinkies and also can be used as a director's viewfinder and can store all my field notes in video mode recording the scene as well. Quite a tool.
That’s a tiny camera. And lightweight, too. I think the Minolta meter comes in a bit over 4 oz.
Technically: Digital detectors are more sensitive to light incident perpendicular to the sensor plane, so light coming in at a strong off-axis angle is less likely detected or may present color fringing. This is much less of an issue with film. However, this effect is unlikely to be significant with most SLR lenses/cameras due to the lens-sensor distance, and probably only really matters for non-retrofocus wide angles for RFs adapted to mirrorless cameras, or the odd example of trying to use a digital detector with a lot of tilt/swing.
Aesthetically: People write all sorts of stuff in lens reviews, and a lot of it has to do with their preconceptions. Many great photos have been taken with fairly humble lenses. And a lot of supposed issues with lens performance are addressed by stopping down to f/5.6-8. So don't get bent out of shape by lens reviews. If you want to use a lens, go ahead and try it regardless of whether some internet jockey reviewed it on a digital sensor or not.
I find the same. All of my old Nikon lenses are now AI or AI’d, and I like the look of them better than I like the newer glass. I’ve also got a few old M42 lenses and a Nikon adapter, and while they will not focus at infinity, I get some nice exposures with them. But then, I not obsessed with sharpness and like softer colors. Perhaps it’s where I live as most things are green, grey, or brown with high SBRs.exclusively working with Nikon vintage lenses on Nikon digital cameras, I've simply never experienced any of the loans not performing well, digital cameras.
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