Now, I'm no chemist (passed high school chemistry by the skin of my teeth), but my understanding of these passages is that FB prints will, without a dedicated 'hypo eliminator,' retain some thiosulfate no matter what. Is that right?
Next to that, would it be correct to assume that a bath of sodium sulfite or even plain old sodium bicarbonate would serve as extremely potent wash aids? Does anybody happen to know the effectiveness of the current commercial products relative to tap water?
1) From what I've read, and what PE has said, yes, there will be residual thiosulfates when only a wash aid/hypo clear is used, but archival processing science suggests that this might not be such a bad thing. Hypo eliminators are not much favoured these days.
2) Yes, a bath of sodium sulfite or bicarbonate is a better way to clear thiosulfates than plain tap water. Of course, that is only important when you use FB paper. With film or RC, the emulsion washes off pretty quickly, and the base does not retain thio. It is always important to use fresh fixer if you want to avoid too much thio buildup in all products (ergo longer washing times).
3) If you get the MSDS for commercial products, you will find the % of components. I suppose you might approximate their relative strength compared to tap water by using the data I have posted, but personally I just trust the manufacturer's recommendations, and if I am selling prints I would confirm their sayings with a residual hypo test solution.