Safely cleaning film before printing

[Jarin Blaschke]

Hi:

Unfortunately, my apartment where I develop film is not nearly as dust free as I would like, and on occasion negs dry with little bits of dust or micro-debris somewhat adhered to them. What's a safe, gentle method to clean film that will not leave abrasive wear or residue? A Q tip and alcohol? Something else?

Thanks.
Jarin

 

[Patrick Robert James]

For minor things, like water marks for example, I like to place the neg on a clean surface, breath on it, and gently wipe in one direction only with a clean microfiber. Usually that takes care of it. If that doesn't do it, 91% alcohol will usually get rid of stubborn water spots. For simple loose dust I use a Kinetronics antistatic brush. I always lightly wipe negs and both interior surfaces of the neg carrier with the brush before I place the neg. If you have dust adhering to the neg, which happens sometimes as the neg dries, just wipe it gently with a microfiber and that usually takes care of it.

Hope that helps.

 

[GRHazelton]

Edwal Anti-Static Film Cleaner with a micro-fiber cloth works for me, after removing loose stuff with a brush. Expensive, but does the job.

I also bought one of these - used, I hasten to add! I think it had been used in a pro lab. Does the job! http://www.kinetronics.com/product/staticvac-anti-static-film-cleaner/

 

[David Allen]

For me an Ilford Anti-Static cloth is a darkroom 'must have':

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/antistatic-cloth

David.
www.dsallen.de

 

[Sirius Glass]

Also look at anti-static brushes and compressed air. Keep your distance with compressed air so that it does not leave residue on the negative.

 

[Truzi]

I use canned air, and gently wipe with a dry Pec-Pad. If you use canned air or other sorts of blowing, be aware it will cause dust to circulate. If you are scanning clean your film away from the scanner so dust doesn't fall on the platen glass. Otherwise you end up in a cycle of dirtying one as you clean the other.

 

[Sirius Glass]

When using canned air, turn away from the enlarger and other negatives.

 

[mnemosyne]

I use Tetenal film cleaning spray and Ilford (or was it Kaiser?) film cleaning cloth. Works well for me.

 

[Svenedin]

Canned air every single time a negative is printed. More stubborn dust, an antistatic brush. I have huge dust problems; an old house, drafts, sash windows, open fires, animals, an aversion to cleaning (having sacked the cleaner) and perennial and pervasive untidiness. It also help to examine the negative at an angle with very bright light -it is much better to remove the dust before printing than to upset by spots on the print. Also a good idea to cover the enlarger (a large plastic bag works) when not in use.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

For me an Ilford Anti-Static cloth is a darkroom 'must have':

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/antistatic-cloth

David.
www.dsallen.de

Don't know why, but this cloth is magic for cleaning of the film. And I don't have to be gentle .

 

[M Carter]

I have a gooseneck magnifier with a built-in LED light. I angle the neg under that and look for dust. I use a small artist paintbrush to knock individual specks loose. if something's stuck on the film, 99% isopropyl and a tiny brush will work it free. Canned air, anti-static brush, the works. I use glass carriers and film masks, so sometimes there are 8 surfaces to keep clean.

 

[Mick Fagan]

After a visual inspection following a blow from compressed air (I have a compressor) if there is anything still there, I'll use some Removable Magic Tape. This tape is safe to use on the emulsion of normal film, it usually lifts specks that somehow do not get blown away by the compressed air.
Very rarely do I need anything stronger than the Removable Magic Tape; been using this method for at least 30 years now.
Mick.

 

[NJH]

Agree with all of the above, simplest thing though is I always use cotton gloves to handle the negative and sometimes when mounting in the holder if I see something just flick it off gently with one of my cotton gloved fingers, 9 times out of 10 this does enough but I have a very low dust level any way.

We suffer from bad hay fever so I have an air purifier just outside the darkroom, its incredible just how much this seems to take the dust level down in the upstairs of our house.

 

[ic-racer]

In my experience, items imbedded in the emulation can be removed. Drying the film in a dusty area ruins it just as if it were processed with a light leak.

 

[Svenedin]

In my experience, items imbedded in the emulation can be removed. Drying the film in a dusty area ruins it just as if it were processed with a light leak.

yes, if dirt becomes stuck in the emulsion when it's wet it's there for good. That's why it is so important to keep all of the processing equipment scrupulously clean. It can also be a problem if solutions are re-used. If these become contaminated with dirt then they will ruin films.

 

[trendland]

In the worst case one can imagine you may have a second final rise with single frames from E6 or with single film stripes from c-41 ! So you may better wash your films than the use of alcohol ( for your films )
if it isn´t so bad I personaly would avoid anything. Anti Static towels are with little liquit inside ( antistatic liquits ) you may have it on your films as an addition of visable destruction. Pressure Air is often a good method of fast frozen your films .-) !!!
The best method is to use nothing and to use your negative with much more respect than anything else to get sure they are 100% clean.
If you have bugs on your films I see it very different - because everything is allowed. ( The bugs will eat your film in total when you do nothing ).
First kill them all with every kind of chemical you prefer - look on your film frames if your pictures are also killed - with the best method you will avoid it.

with regards

 

[jim10219]

You guys use compressed air? Why not a blower? I've always used a blower because I was afraid of the chemicals or drastic temperature change from the compressed air might damage the negative. With so many people complaining about small temperature changes during the development/wash/fix process causing reticulated grains, I just figured drastic and immediate sweeps in temperature would be a nonstarter. Beyond that, they have enough chemicals in them that some people huff them to get high! Plus the condensation from the humidity in the air being rapidly cooled. I'm not saying it's a bad idea. It's just not what I expected to read people suggest on this site.

My method is to use a blower, then if need be, use a squirrel hair brush. If that doesn't do it, I'll fog it with some breath and gently swab it with a microfiber cloth. If that doesn't do it, then I'll clean it in isopropyl alcohol using a microfiber cloth.

 

[tedr1]

Hi:

Unfortunately, my apartment where I develop film is not nearly as dust free as I would like, and on occasion negs dry with little bits of dust or micro-debris somewhat adhered to them. What's a safe, gentle method to clean film that will not leave abrasive wear or residue? A Q tip and alcohol? Something else?

Thanks.
Jarin

If wet cleaning is needed isopropyl alcohol is good and plastic safe. It often contains a little moisture which sometimes leaves a slight trail. An alternative is naptha which does not contain water, this is "lighter fluid" sold under brand names Ronsonol among others. Q tips work but be very very gentle, work under a bright light and if possible under a magnifier.

 

[trendland]

If wet cleaning is needed isopropyl alcohol is good and plastic safe. It often contains a little moisture which sometimes leaves a slight trail. An alternative is naptha which does not contain water, this is "lighter fluid" sold under brand names Ronsonol among others. Q tips work but be very very gentle, work under a bright light and if possible under a magnifier.

Well I have a "smell" that all this kind of chemicals/cleaners/alcohol fluids are pretty to clean a film before printing - but the color couplers may have a lost of long therm stabitity from this ?
I can't say - so I do nothing with films (hold it clean) - old films out of the 70th may of cause need to restaurate first.
with regards

 

[tedr1]

Black and white emulsion is not disturbed by IPA or naptha. I can't speak for other "chemicals" nor for color film.

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

When I was involved with Ilfochrome Class printing, transparencies were wiped once only with an Ilford cloth — the well-known, widely available orange antistatic cloth. This cloth was never ever washed. The darkroom was a sterile, dust-free environment, so much of the time it was just a chore, and scratching or crimping was never seen, even for 6x17 cuts. Some B&W emulsions are thin and fragile; I think a thick blusher brush and blower (not compressed air!) would be sufficient in those cases. A lot depends on how much ambient dust you have around your working space that will only complicate the cleaning process.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You guys use compressed air? Why not a blower? I've always used a blower because I was afraid of the chemicals or drastic temperature change from the compressed air might damage the negative. With so many people complaining about small temperature changes during the development/wash/fix process causing reticulated grains, I just figured drastic and immediate sweeps in temperature would be a nonstarter. Beyond that, they have enough chemicals in them that some people huff them to get high! Plus the condensation from the humidity in the air being rapidly cooled. I'm not saying it's a bad idea. It's just not what I expected to read people suggest on this site.

My method is to use a blower, then if need be, use a squirrel hair brush. If that doesn't do it, I'll fog it with some breath and gently swab it with a microfiber cloth. If that doesn't do it, then I'll clean it in isopropyl alcohol using a microfiber cloth.

One must hold compressed air well away from the negatives or slides to avoid getting residue deposits.

 

[Ozxplorer]

Probably sounds silly but I use the edge of a large feather. Bird feathers are soft, also naturally oily and pick up the dust as it is wiped across the negative. Grin, I have a small “collection” of large wing feathers.