Rust on single size easel and other questions

[Jim Benson]

I am having a hard time getting good borders while using the easels available in my community darkroom; they take quite a beating from others.

I’ve ordered a one size 11 x 14 easel to carry back and forth, figuring that that will solve the problem, and have looked in vain for a one size 16 x 20.

I did get a borderless 16 x 20 from e bay, the type that has sides that slide inward, but don’t feel that I can get an appropriate paper flatness with that.

There is a one size 16 x 20 in the darkroom that seems to be largely unused. It is all metal, with an approximately ¼ to 3/8 inch rectangle that rotates downward onto the paper. The problem is that it has some rust on it. If anyone could point me in a direction to purchase one in good condition, I’d be grateful

Someone suggested just using it as is, but I’m afraid that some rust may adhere to the paper and foul the chemistry. I am considering taking some steel wool and sandpaper, removing as much as I can of the rust, and then spraying it with rustoleum. Any advice from anyone who has dealt with this situation would be appreciated.

I do see a ganz 16 x 20 but am 1) unsure how well this would hold the paper flat and 2) although I am sure this is a matter of the pictures I see, I can’t discern a border on the side where you actually slide the paper in. Any people who can share their experience with this would be of great help.

I’m also thinking of putting together some sort of vacuum device which consist of a shallow box made from acrylic sheets with the top having small holes cut into it and hooked up to a shop vac. Advice on this would be appreciated as well.


Thank you

 

[Sirius Glass]

Spray with WD-40, rub it, remove rust with a rag and clean off. Light sanding may be needed with a very fine grit.

 

[cowanw]

Rust converter has done the job for me in that situation. sort of like blueing a firearm.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/autom...e&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default
here for an explanation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter

 

[john_s]

If the rust is on a flat surface, very fine sandpaper used on a flat sanding block can smoothen the surface. Then a bit of thinly applied paint would tidy it up.

 

[bdial]

It's not likely to adhere to the paper or cause any other problems if there are no loose flakes. But a little fix-up with some sandpaper or steel wool, and a shot of rustoleum wouldn't hurt.
I'd use 400 grit if the surface isn't too rough.

 

[GKC]

I've had problems with some double weight paper not sliding into one size easels like the Ganz. There is a border where you slide the paper under on the Ganz.
If a little work will restore the rusted easel in your community dark room, then go for it if the dark room allows---it's not like rocket science. Your cheapest alternative would be a flat piece of steel and some magnets to hold the paper down. Or check locally for people getting rid of dark rooms--they'll sometimes have a spare easel to sell you cheap.

 

[Rick A]

"I’m also thinking of putting together some sort of vacuum device which consist of a shallow box made from acrylic sheets with the top having small holes cut into it and hooked up to a shop vac. Advice on this would be appreciated as well."

Making the easel part is easy, getting the vacuum part to work is the hard part. Your shop vac idea doesn't work, vibration is a killer, and the noise is deafening. I used to have a vacuum veneering press, that type of pump(rotary vane) is ideal and much quieter. I would also recommend adding a vacuum pot(a reservoir of sorts) between the pump and easel. You draw down a vacuum in the pot, then open a valve to draw down a vacuum at the easel. This helps further isolate vibration from the pump. You need reinforced tubing for this, not a large hose, and the pot can be a discarded helium tank like the ones from a party kit at the Dollar Store.

 

[M Carter]

In my teens I worked in a graphic arts shop and we had vacuum backs in all the big horizontal repro cameras. They had a perforated plate you held the paper against, kicked on the vacuum, and as I recall some of them had levers that closed off the perforations outside the paper.

I really think that's overkill for anything but doing huge prints on a wall. The video someone posted here of a master-printer doing giant enlargements? Looked like a white steel wall and magnets were used.