Rotary Processing

[Robert]

For brewing I manage 152F for quite awhile. But that's using a picnic cooler to hold everything. I guess I could make up something similar.

 

[Aggie]

..

 

[chrisl]

I'm about to develop my first 4x5 and Unidrum. I found this link for dev. times/temps: http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Times/FP-4/fp-4.html And this for TriX: http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Times/TriX/trix.html

I've got Rodinal and D76, and thought I'd try the D76 first for ease. I shot the FP4 at 65 and the TriX at 320. ?? times for TriX and D76? And D76 1:1 with FP4? Since this is my first time, I just need a starting point I'd think.

I'll be at 68 degrees and constant agitation.

Thanks for any help!!

Chris

 

[GreyWolf]

I was reading through this thread and thought I would share this. If you are new to using a Unicolor drum system for 4x5 film (or you could follow the same idea for roll film by using a Unicolor Roll film drum) you may want to read this.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/

As for temperature control and E6 or color negative development, I have found that it is NOT as hard as most of the literature makes it out to be.

Perhaps you may wish to try it for yourself and see.

Regards,

 

[chrisl]

I saw that earlier Grey Wolf and thought it was a great article and informative. Well done! I'm about to try it for the first time and will be using dedicated measuring cups as you suggested. Good idea. I guess the trick is to fill the tank as fast as possible, and get it on the base...but I was wondering if I first tap to dislodge air bubbles first in a stainless steel tank?

 

[clogz]

As to Rodinal: what I usually do (for 35 mm and 120 roll film): take the time recommended by manufacturer with drum development but I do not reduce the time by 10-20%. Gives negs that work fine in my diffusor enlarger.

And by all means give the drum a gentle tap to remove any bubbles.

BTW: Do you know about the Massive Development Chart? (www.digitaltruth.com)

Good luck

 

[bmac]

I leave my drum on the base unless I am draining it in the sink. I use everything one shot. No need to tap it, the rotation take care of that on its own.

Brian

 

[chrisl]

Thanks guys for the info incl. the great link Clogz. I have a good idea now how to proceed. Everyone's been alot of help! Thanks! Chris

 

[bpm32]

I need to re-visit this topic...

I had been developing 4x5 negs handrolling in a tube. I had read where a good rotation speed was one complete revolution every 3 - 4 seconds. It didn't take too long before I was tired of hand rolling these things, so I bought an Ilford base. Upon setup, I found this will rotate the tube 1 revolution per 1 second.

Will I need to change my development time if I use this base? If I didn't, what could I expect to see in terms of contrast, etc? It is a unidirectional roller, so I will be switching the tube around once every minute or so.

As always, thanks for your time!

Brian

 

[bmac]

You are going to get much more contrast with a drum speeding along that fast. My guess is that you are going to need to drop your times by 20-30%, but only testing will tell you for sure. The bidirectioonal ones from UNicolor and Beseler are far superior in my opinion. I've had both, and the unicolor moved much slower on the base than the Beseler.

 

[sbandone]

PROBLEM WITH SPOTS IN ILFORD EMULSIONS USING JOBO PROCESSOR

I have in the last 12 months experienced problems while processing BW films either FP4 or D400 in either Paterson Aculux or ID11 1:1- using a Jobo processor. The problem is appears to be tiny clear spots on the emulsion. particularly in the dense regions e.g. sky. I thought that using stop bath was the problem so started used plain water, and reduced the presoak from 5mins as recommended by Jobo, to 2 mins filling the tank with water and inversion agitation. At first this appeared to work but the little spots have now returned. I meticulously filter my water and use one shot chemicals, all at the processing temperature of 21.5-22.5C, final wash at this temperature also
So before I create some more scan only negatives has anyone any idea what could be happening?- I have been developing BW films for years using Paterson tanks and more recently Jobo and have never had this problem. Could it be a problem with formulation of lford emulsions?

HELP!

Stewart

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

I have in the last 12 months experienced problems while processing BW films either FP4 or D400 in either Paterson Aculux or ID11 1:1- using a Jobo processor. The problem is appears to be tiny clear spots on the emulsion. particularly in the dense regions e.g. sky. I thought that using stop bath was the problem so started used plain water, and reduced the presoak from 5mins as recommended by Jobo, to 2 mins filling the tank with water and inversion agitation. At first this appeared to work but the little spots have now returned. I meticulously filter my water and use one shot chemicals, all at the processing temperature of 21.5-22.5C, final wash at this temperature also
So before I create some more scan only negatives has anyone any idea what could be happening?- I have been developing BW films for years using Paterson tanks and more recently Jobo and have never had this problem. Could it be a problem with formulation of lford emulsions?

HELP!

Stewart

Are you using a hardening fixer?

 

[sbandone]

Thanks keith

I am using Ilford Rapid fixer a non hardening fixer - it is an ammonium thiosulphate fixer not suited to harderner additions apparently

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Stewart

 

[sbandone]

I seem to have a completely clean film at last- how so?
1.Allowed water from mains to subside in a large container for a hour before mixing powder chemistry
2.All water and solutions filtered- all chemistry one shot
3. Use Jobo 2521 tank and 2502 spiral with 2 120 films loaded instead of 1520 0r 1540 series
4. Take Ilford Data Sheet advice not to use presoak with rotary tube processing
instead of Jobo advice to soak for a minimum of 5 minutes - and reduce development time by 15%
5. Use 2% glacial acetic acid stop bath
6. Use Ilfotol wetting agent for final rinse no squeegee etc

I just hope all future films will be the same!

Thanks Stewart

 

[jstraw]

I've been having the SAME problem and was unaware that Ilford recommends against using a presoak for rotary. I've reduced (but not eliminated) the spots by INCREASING the presoak.

 

[rmolson]

Rotary processing


I used a Unicolor drum and motor for 4x5 Tr-X with HC-110 for several years. The smaller quantities of chemistry used in Color processing made sense due to cost . But when I started processing film years ago I made it a practice to fill the roll film tanks with the same volume of developer whether for one or two reels of 35mm film or one 120 reel. As I used HC-110 diluted straight from the bottle at 1:50 ratio 10cc of HC-110 to 500cc of water gave me very consistent results. When I started shooting 4x5 sheet I applied the same logic to the Unicolor tank, 500cc’s with nary a problem of streaking, uneven development or consistency. I have never changed that practice even though I no longer use sheet film or a processing drum. The theory is “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” Once you find something that works stick with it. Chances of exhausting it’s potential are remote to slim.