Rotary processing and stop bath/fixer times

mshchem

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Sometimes you can still find the Unicolor or similar rollers. Used to be something easy to find. I have a set of the Jobo manual rollers they work fine, actually easier to use for prints. Jobo sells an excellent kit for 200 usd. Tank, rollers, everything you need, great deal.

You could use developer one shot, stop and fixer upright. Once you have the films in the fixer you can take off the lid, agitate up and down to better judge fixer times.

I'm a believer in the Jobo method, I used to think it was silly, until a few years ago. I got ahold of a used machine, changed my mind completely.

I bought a new CPP3 a couple years ago from Catlabs, based on my experience with Jobo stuff it should still be running 30 years from now.
 

Adrian Bacon

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I use a jobo, and stop is 30-60 seconds and I typically fix for the same time as my dev time (it's usually 5-10 minutes). I use a rapid fixer, but the thing to keep in mind is fix is to completion, so there's just a minimum time you have to hit, and if you go longer, it's no big deal.
 

ic-racer

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I bought a new CPP3 a couple years ago from Catlabs, based on my experience with Jobo stuff it should still be running 30 years from now.

Got my CPP2 new almost 25 years ago and still runs and looks like new today.
 

mshchem

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Got my CPP2 new almost 25 years ago and still runs and looks like new today. View attachment 311997

Yep, I have one of these great machines as well. I bought it as is off Ebay, as is for parts. I reset the thermal breaker, that fixed the no heat, I had to open up the unit and fixed the reverse switch. The original motor speed switch fell apart during my repair, got a decent close enough switch from Catlabs. Works fine now.
This machine had been used and not cared for. I spent several hours getting rid of lime build up. Mostly just warm water and Vinegar. I took the new style lift apart cleaned it and re-sealed. Replaced the drum tap. It works fine. I bought a new CPP3 because I wanted one.
 
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