roller paint tray as paper tray

[Paul Howell]

While shopping at the local dollar store for inexpensive paint supplies for my patio I bought a couple a couple 99 cent roller paint trays, got home, got to thinking and started using them as slosh trays, the size I got is good for 8X10s, there is a larger size at Lows that will take up to 11X14. The 8X10 will take about a quart of developer, set the print in face side and a gentle rocking motion with constant agitation seems to work fine. Then into the stop, followed by fix, with rapid fix no problem, but as I use a standard non rapid fix for FB might use a standard print tray.

Other than cost, a buck for a tray, no real advantage over standard trays and paper drums. Well I guess if wanted to go with one shot paper developer, not sure how many ounces will be needed per print.

 

[BrianShaw]

That’s a great idea. Only negative (pun not intended) I can think of is that the paint tray liners, which I believe you mean, have become incredibly flimsy. I’ve stopped using them for paint and instead just spend more time cleaning the aluminum paint trays. Too many have flexed, leaked, etc on me. Do they hold enough chemistry?

 

[Paul Howell]

Not a liner, a Made in China, tray, not very sturdy, but will work, I would not trust them with paint on a ladder, when I get a chance I will post an image of the ones I got. They will hold just of a quart, so how many prints fro 320z of Dektol? I use Clayton P90, need to check on capacity.

 

[wiltw]

Dektol capacity = 120 8x10 per gallon (128 fl.oz)

 

[Paul Howell]

So for a average printing session I print 10 to 15 I can go with 16ozs. I need to figure out the minimum amount of chemistry is needed for a single print, how much is needed to cover and get even development.

 

[wiltw]

Minimum chemisty to cover print thoroughly is more determined by the number of sq inches of tray to fill! Simplest is to never put less than 8oz in the 8x10 tray (That little does not work well for 16x20 tray, though!) and don't do less than 7 prints in that.
An 8x10 tray filled with 8oz is what i would try to process in, as an absolute minimum...that gives only a few millimeters of solution!

 

[Paul Howell]

Thanks, I'll give a test run sometime this afternoon.

 

[voceumana]

If they are made of metal they will probably react with the chemistry and produce undesirable results. If they are plastic, my only concern would be the minimal depth of solution at the raised end might make agitation incomplete.

 

[Wayne]

For cheap trays I like 11x14ish Sterilite containers and similar things you can get at Walmart for a few bucks. They come with handles and handy lids.

 

[Paul Howell]

The ones I have a plastic, getting ready to print in few hours, will post in image of the set up.

 

[gone]

It's just crazy how much they want for "proper" developing trays. Like you, I went the DIY route, and the Dollar Tree and Walmart provided trays, but they were often frustratingly a teeny bit too small, or way too big and used up a lot of chemistry.

My best ones were made from cardboard boxes. I had a lot of those at home, along w/ a 100' roll of heavy duty, black plastic drop cloth ($10 from Walmart). Really thick material, not like a trash bag. I cut the boxes down to about 8" high, laid the plastic into it the "tray", folded the plastic over and duct taped it to the bottom. That's it. The weight of the liquid chemistry will keep everything ship shape when you rock the print.

I've been making 11x17 prints for years this way. Every now and then I recover them w/ plastic from the roll. With 100'x20' of this stuff, I should be able to use these trays for another 246.32 years. Unless something comes up.

 

[Danner]

I dunno, a set of 3 Paterson 8x10 trays is only $11.85.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40359-REG/Paterson_PTP334_Plastic_Developing_Trays.html

 

[albada]

For cheap trays I like 11x14ish Sterilite containers and similar things you can get at Walmart for a few bucks. They come with handles and handy lids.

That's what I use!
I have no sink in the darkroom, so the taller walls and handles on Sterlite bins allow chemicals to be carried to the bathroom or kitchen sink without splash-out.

 

[Paul Howell]

This is a bust, I think the chemistry is interacting with the resin the trays are made from, even with 20oz of developer really odd and splotchy, I know it's not the short development time for RC paper as I use the same time when using print drums on a motor base. Should have attempted a more elaborate proof of concept before I posted.

 

[BrianShaw]

Dang... too bad it didn’t work. Great idea, though, and I really respect your experimentation!

 

[voceumana]

Back in high school (1966-1970) I bought deep plastic dishpans for fifty cents--today they are probably a couple of bucks, but they nicely held 8x10's.

 

[MattKing]

Cat litter trays from the dollar store have worked for me.
But I don't like the flat bottoms, and the size isn't ideal.
I was given an absolutely beautiful set of 8x10 and 11x14 Kodak Duaflex trays which are identical to one I had when I was a kid. Beautifully made, and they stack perfectly and pour better than any other tray I've used. Sadly, they too have flat bottoms, sso I use them for purposes like toning or transporting wet prints or protecting counter tops.

 

[John Bragg]

+1 for cat litter trays. I used to use them for toning as well and they held up to nasty chemicals. Shame no ridges in bottom though. Perhaps a DIY effort with plumbers pipe sealant and plastic offcuts to fashion some ?

 

[Paul Howell]

As it turns out not the tray, my new just opened bottle of Clayton P20 is bad. Third of 3 bottles I bought late last year, other 2 bottles were just fine, this time standard 11X14 trays, same as when in the roller trays. Last of the developer I have on hand just ordered some of Ultrafines Dektol clone, when it arrives will repeat.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

While shopping at the local dollar store for inexpensive paint supplies for my patio I bought a couple a couple 99 cent roller paint trays, got home, got to thinking and started using them as slosh trays, the size I got is good for 8X10s, there is a larger size at Lows that will take up to 11X14. The 8X10 will take about a quart of developer, set the print in face side and a gentle rocking motion with constant agitation seems to work fine. Then into the stop, followed by fix, with rapid fix no problem, but as I use a standard non rapid fix for FB might use a standard print tray.

Other than cost, a buck for a tray, no real advantage over standard trays and paper drums. Well I guess if wanted to go with one shot paper developer, not sure how many ounces will be needed per print.

It's a great idea. The texture on the bottom keeps the paper from sticking to the bottom when you're agitating your print.

 

[wiltw]

You can simply place a few thin bamboo skewers on the bottom of any non-ridged tray, to keep prints from sticking to the bottom. I would not attempt to re-use bamboo however, as they can't be cleaned of old developer. But they are cheap!