I've had a Yashicamat EM with the Yashinon, a Model D (same as 635 minus the 35mm kit) with the Yashikor triplet and my lady friend has a 'Cord with a Xenar.
The 75mm vs 80mm makes more of a difference than any image quality issues, even the triplet is a great lens shot wide open. Maybe I just have an exceptional copy but it's better than I expected in sharpness, contrast and resolution when I hit focus and use fine grained film. They're all so good it doesn't matter unless it has been monkeyed with.
If you can forgo the crank, you save weight and money and gain reliability. On camera meter adds weight too. Early models definitely built better than the 124G.
Get one that has been recently serviced and don't let it sit on a shelf.
few out on the bay serviced by Mark Hamma but a little on the expensive side... like 300-350
Hmmm... by any chance are the person who was looking at an $800 Automat and then bought a $100 Automat that is a mess?
The Hama Yashica-Mat is as good as they will get. If you are serious about using a TLR, that's a very safe bet. Myself, I would go for a plain Yashica-Mat or at most a Yashica-Mat 124 (no G), but that is as much an aesthetic as a technical issue. You might not sell it for as much as you pay- maybe $50-100 less- but consider that rent while you learn if you do want to sell it.
If you want to sell that $100 Automat, drop me a note. See, that Hama is now $100 less!
They all need lens hoods some will also need a baffle between the lens and film postcard material and black board paint time, most have a baffle already.I use a Yashicamat 124 in Turkey that I bought from this forum about 6 years ago it's a great camera to use and the resulting prints are superb, the meter is surprisingly accurate.
However the Yashica's build quality is not as good as my MPP Microcord (essentially a British made Rolleicord III) or my two Rolleiflex cameras. My main miniature format camera in the UK is now a Rolleiflex Automat with an Opton Tessar that I bought at a flea market early this year for £50/$80. I occasionally use a 3.5E Rolleiflex with a Xenotar.
In terms of the quality of results there's not much between any of my TLRs, there's a slight tendency for flare in some conditions with the Yashicamat, the Xpres lens on the MPP is sharper at wider apertures than the Yashinon or Opton Tessar and as good as the Xenotar.
There's plenty of good Rolleiflex Automat for the same prices as Yashicamats or Autocords you shouldn't need to pay more that £140/$220. You'll pay a lot more for a later Rolleiflex with an f2.8 or f3.5 Planar/Xenotar.
Ian
IF you shop around and take your time (and that's a big if), you can find a 2.8E Rolleiflex for under $600. It will almost certainly need a CLA at that price point, but then you'll have a phenomenal camera that will last you the rest of your life. That said, Ian Grant is right about the Automats and Rolleicords. Regardless of which camera you get, be it a Yashica, Minolta, or Rollei, do yourself a huge favor and invest in a lens shade for it.
They all need lens hoods some will also need a baffle between the lens and film postcard material and black board paint time, most have a baffle already.
Even a lubitel from pre Lomo production is ok for slow work with a hood and baffle think I got mine for 10$ and is light enough for Nepal.
The Microcords are real nice but inflating in $ they are low production.
I knew the Rollei would be getting the votes but I'm surprised more people didn't stress the value. If both cameras were a grand then yes, but one is 250 and the other is a 1000
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?