Rolleiflex vs rolleicord

[Huss]

But since this is a "travel" camera the priorities should be weight and minimizing heartache of thievery and clumsiness . Right now I get sooooo nervous leaving my gx617 in the car when I travel. Hate carrying around my expensive equipment traveling.

I'm travelling next week w/ with my 2.8GX 60 Jahre edition, a Fuji TX-2 pano camera, and a Nikon F6. They are meant to be used, and completely worthless if left at home. Get insurance and never leave stuff in your car.

 

[macfred]

Thanks for the link to the release. I ended up with that rolleicord, should be here tomorrow. It fits the purpose of lightweight and is mechanically simpler so less to go wrong. Both important factors when traveling to places that don't have camera repair shops.

Good choice - have fun !
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Another benefit is the bayonette 1 - better (and cheaper) availability for accessory parts like filters or lens shades.

 

[cabledog]

Good choice - have fun !
--
Another benefit is the bayonette 1 - better (and cheaper) availability for accessory parts like filters or lens shades.

Yeah I ordered the bay 1 to 49mm adaptor already. That's another question I have. What style hood can I use with that adaptor that won't interfere with the taking lens??

 

[cabledog]

I'm travelling next week w/ with my 2.8GX 60 Jahre edition, a Fuji TX-2 pano camera, and a Nikon F6. They are meant to be used, and completely worthless if left at home. Get insurance and never leave stuff in your car.

If I never left it in the car I'd be carrying sooooo much gear lol. The purpose of this camera is so I don't have to worry about carrying extra film backs and lenses. It annoys my girlfriend when we're on vacation and I'm fiddling with lenses when I should be fiddling with her

 

[Prest_400]

I have yet to try a Rolleiflex but I have a (slightly battered and in need of CLA) Rolleicord V. It is rather light but I haven't travelled with it extensively. Turns out that my F80 kicked the bucket and next week I've got a trip. It's like the burning of ships in that I'll have to take Medium format then! For sake of weight & film economy 6x6 and Rolleicord seem quite nice. I have a Fuji too, but it's 6x9. Quite portable, but 8exp on 6x9.

I've read in some places that people see sharper images from their cords but many attribute it to the shutter mechanism on the cord. Because it doesn't take a lot of force to trip and you are moving it along the camera plane rather than pushing into the camera like the flex. Who knows if it's true but it sounds true so that must mean it's true.

The lever can be annoying too, although the release is soft enough (cocking on mine is a bit tough, age matters). I found out that while looking through the magnifier I can press a side of the hood with my face and stabilize a bit. Some people hate that side release because it can induce shake (it happened to me), in the Flexes it's pressing against the body instead. I have yet to try, but I read suggestions of using a short cable release.

Lenses wise, the Xenar and Tessar should be rather equal. Xenotars and Planars are just a notch above, at least in pricing!

 

[btaylor]

What style hood can I use with that adaptor that won't interfere with the taking lens??

I stick with Bay 1 stuff. It all fits the way it is supposed to, no fiddling, no interference. There is lots of it around from the Yashica 124s and Autocords, they all use the same Bay 1 system. With patience hoods and filters can be found at good prices.

 

[cabledog]

Yeah 6x6 is a nice compromise. I love my mamiya 645 but it gets heavy with ae prism and auto winder and extra film backs and lenses

 

[cabledog]

I stick with Bay 1 stuff. It all fits the way it is supposed to, no fiddling, no interference. There is lots of it around from the Yashica 124s and Autocords, they all use the same Bay 1 system. With patience hoods and filters can be found at good prices.

The main filter i use a nd filter for shooting pushed film in daylight since I won't have the option to change backs like I'm normally used to. Do they make nd filters in bay 1?

 

[macfred]

Yeah I ordered the bay 1 to 49mm adaptor already. That's another question I have. What style hood can I use with that adaptor that won't interfere with the taking lens??

I'm not sure - I guess the hood will slightly block the viewing lens. I would go for a straight, cylindrical metal hood.

The main filter i use a nd filter for shooting pushed film in daylight since I won't have the option to change backs like I'm normally used to. Do they make nd filters in bay 1?

They did (take a seat first ...) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollei-Roll...d=282610744607&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

Heliopan still does ND filters for Bay 1, 2 and 3 - I have bought a new Heliopan ND 0.3 (2x) for Bay 2 - it costs 60 EURO

 

[cabledog]

I'm not sure - I guess the hood will slightly block the viewing lens. I would go for a straight, cylindrical metal hood.



They did (take a seat first ...) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollei-Rolleiflex-Bay-I-Grau-2-and-Grau-4-aka-ND2-and-ND4-Filter-Ultra-Rare/272845920621?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=41375&meid=b9f1acdeb41e4df3801bb35f10857223&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=282610744607&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

Heliopan still does ND filters for Bay 1, 2 and 3 - I have bought a new Heliopan ND 0.3 (2x) for Bay 2 - it costs 60 EURO

Ummmm.... That's more than the rolleicord hahaa

 

[btaylor]

Is $13.50 too much?

http://www.filterfind.net/Bayonet_1-6.html

 

[Dan Daniel]

Yeah I ordered the bay 1 to 49mm adaptor already. That's another question I have. What style hood can I use with that adaptor that won't interfere with the taking lens??

You'd be surprised how small an affect blocking part of the taking lens has on your viewfinder. I used a standard 52mm metal lens hood with an adapter without a problem. Well, actually, there was a problem in that the adapter and filter projected forward enough that the standard lens hood length vignetted the corners on the negative. This is a real concern, not shading part of the viewing lens.

 

[cabledog]

Is $13.50 too much?

http://www.filterfind.net/Bayonet_1-6.html

Yes. Jk. Thanks for the link

 

[Steve Smith]

I've read in some places that people see sharper images from their cords but many attribute it to the shutter mechanism on the cord. Because it doesn't take a lot of force to trip and you are moving it along the camera plane rather than pushing into the camera like the flex. Who knows if it's true but it sounds true so that must mean it's true.

Certainly a possibility.

I love my Rolleicord V. Every time I print from it, I'm amazed at the sharpness.

Plus It was the first 'good' camera I bought and as I only paid £34 for it, I consider it a great purchase.


Steve.

 

[cabledog]

Certainly a possibility.

I love my Rolleicord V. Every time I print from it, I'm amazed at the sharpness.

Plus It was the first 'good' camera I bought and as I only paid £34 for it, I consider it a great purchase.


Steve.

Do you have the standard V with right side focusing? What is your holding technique, which hand focuses and which hand cocks/trips shutter? I had a special way of holding my hassy, left hand supporting and also on shutter release with right hand focusing.

 

[cabledog]

Okay honest assessment of the taking lens. I know these are old cameras but doesn't this look bad?

 

[BrianShaw]

It's probably not as bad, in term of usability, as you might think. But I'd worry more about the appearance that someone with limited tools/skills appear to have worked on it.

 

[cabledog]

Supposedly it was just clad a few weeks ago. The rest of the body looks great though

 

[BrianShaw]

CLA... by a pro, or amateur? Unfortunately too many claim that but it isn't clear that it was done competently. The scratches on the lens bezel aren't a problem per se but indicate bad tool, wrong tool, of jittery nerves.

Try it out... might work just fine!

Use a lens hood for sure!

 

[cabledog]

I just noticed the shutter speed and aperture numbers are no longer white at all. It's way to hard to read the. That's a big problem, it's going back. Sigh

 

[Huss]

CLA... by a pro, or amateur? Unfortunately too many claim that but it isn't clear that it was done competently.

Exactly. CLA means nothing unless it can be backed up with proof (receipt) it was from a competent tech.

 

[Huss]

It annoys my girlfriend when we're on vacation and I'm fiddling with lenses when I should be fiddling with her

That's why you leave the good gf at home, and travel with a cheap one that you don't worry about getting bumped around/wet or losing.

 

[cabledog]

Hahaha. Damn it I really want a rolleicord V in good condition. Doesn't anyone on here want to sell me theirs???!!!!!!!!

 

[Down Under]

If cost is important, go with the Rolleicord. A Vb in good to excellent condition will cost you about the same as a half clapped out Rolleiflex from the 1950s. For some insane reason I've not fathomed, Rolleiflexes of all vintages now sell for small fortunes, but Rolleicords get passed up on Ebay. Go figure...

They are also lighter, and bayonet I accessories are not really expensive. Last week in Kuching,Sarawak, I found two Softars in original Rollei leather cases for A$15. A once only bargain, I know, but they are out there.

The ergonomics can easily be worked out, with a bit of lateral thinking.

Following on from my earlier post (#18), I'm now in Sarawak, happily shooting with a Nikon D700 kit and my Rolleicord Vb with black-and-white film. I had six rolls processed in a Chinese photo studio this week, got the negatives back this morning. They are superb. Mostly Ilford FP4 and one HP5 shot in early morning light in the mountains. The scans look surprisingly fine-grained. Out of curiosity I asked the elderly shop owner what developer he used for the films, expecting to be told at the least, D76. No - Dektol! He explained his standard processing is done with Dektol 1+4 and high contrast scenes 1+5. I was, in a word, flabbergasted. The negatives look very sharp and finely detailed. Printing will tell, in time.

My 'cord kit is the camera, a lens hood, a UV filter, a yellow filter (and now the two Softars, which I may or may not use on this journey), a small exposure meter, of course film, and a generic brand grip as I've not yet found a strap with the Rolleicord lugs. Also a 16 exposure accessory kit I bought in Australi before I left, which cost me A$40. It reduces the per shot cost to something I consider more affordable, and the results are just as good. Not the 6x6 'square' but a pleasing 35mm-like 3x4 ratio, ideal for printing to 5x7 or 8x10.

Keeping it simple is the way to go. More bang for the buck, important nowadays to this retiree on a modest pension income, and lighter to carry.

 

[Steve Smith]

Do you have the standard V with right side focusing? What is your holding technique, which hand focuses and which hand cocks/trips shutter? I had a special way of holding my hassy, left hand supporting and also on shutter release with right hand focusing.

Yes. Wind on, focus and shutter all on the right, All worked with my right hand whilst the left hand concentrates on holding it. I find this easiest.


Steve.