Rolleiflex TLR close-up lens

[jasonjoo]

Hey folks,

I find the minimum focusing distance a bit limiting at times and need a close-up lens attachment or something similar to get a closer minimum focusing distance.

I found a few sets from www.camera-depot.com but am unsure what the quality of these lenses are. Will they degrade the image quality? And when the descriptions says that a +4 lens is good for 8-12 inches, does that mean the TLR will only focus on an object that is 8-12 inches away? Or will it reduce the minimum focusing distance only?

Thanks for your help. If there are other close-up lenses, please let me know!

Jason

Edit: After a brief search, it seems like the Rolleinar is what I want. Seems like a hard to get item and pretty pricey! Does anyone have experience with the $25 dollar close up lenses sold by camera-depot?

 

[Larry.Manuel]

Rollei TLR close-up lenses: "Rolleinar"

Rollei made versions 1,2 and 3 called "Rolleinar". The different versions allow greater or lesser magnifications. And as you have discovered, the camera no longer focuses to infinity with one fitted. A Rolleipar is a parallax-correcting lens that fits over the Rolleinar on the viewing lens. So, a full set will include three lenses, identical Rolleinars for taking and viewing lenses, and the Rolleipar.

Googling these key words will inform you about them, there's lots on the web. Adding anything to the optical path will degrade the image. Many people find the original Rollei-made close-up lenses work very, very, well and are happy with them. Other brands- buyer beware.

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks Larry. I guess I will have to do for now. I just spent $160 on darkroom supplies yesterday and there are still a few more items that I'll be needing, so I'll have to hold off on the close-up lens. I figure this is a bad move, considering that as each day passes, these things get more expensive

Perhaps it's time for a MF body with interchangeable lenses... Ahh I better control myself!

Jason

 

[David H. Bebbington]

As described here:
http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Je2w
the 3-piece arrangement applies to pre-war close-up sets. Post-war sets consist of 2 pieces, a regular close-up lens for the camera taking lens and a "fat" lens which is a combination close-up lens and image-shift prism for the viewing lens. I have used Rolleinar 1, 2 and 3 in a bayonet I size, the idea works well and corrects framing, it doesn't fully correct parallax because although the framing is correct, the taking lens is still lower than the viewing lens, giving a different perspective. When I bought my lenses a few years ago, the going rate in UK was about £25 a set.

Regards,

David

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks David. £25 doesn't seem too bad, though the going rate on ebay was around $150USD when I checked a few hours ago

Jason

 

[Larry.Manuel]

Other Rollei TLR parts sources besides EvilBay.

You might try looking at camera dealers' websites - KEH, Igor Camera are two that come to mind, KOH's and B&H as well. I've seen Rolleinars for way less than $150. From a dealer, I recently bought a set of Rolleinars 1&2 [and mine aren't prewar], in leather "coffin" case, with 4 colour filters for $100.

A medium format [or RF] SLR is a different kettle of fish. I can see some advantages, for sure. Not for me, though. Happily set up with three overhauled Rollei TLRs with Maxwell screens. Set for life.

 

[jasonjoo]

How much of a difference does the Maxwell screens make? Some say they make a world of a difference, other's say it's not necessary. I'm finding my working Rolleiflex 3.5E to be very dim unless I'm shooting in the brightest of conditions. In semi-bright conditions, the center of the screen is bright, but the corners are very dim, much like vignetting in photos.

I've been debating about the Maxwell screens for some time, but at $180 or so per screen + installation fees, it all adds up! It's either getting a Maxwell screen or getting my second 3.5E CLA'd (which I've been holding off for a few months now).

Thanks for your help Larry!

Jason

Edit: Well, I found a Rolleinar 2 for my bay 2 TLR at Adorama for $29. The description said it came with a viewer, which I'm assuming is the piece for my viewing lens (I hope so). Seemed like a good price so I jumped on it. Could anyone please tell me what the minimum focusing distance with a Rolleinar 2 is? I think I read on photo.net that it was 19", but I would like to know for sure.

Thanks!

 

[dpurdy]

When you get the #2 Rolleinar set from Adorama, one lens is small and looks like a filter and the other is larger and has a red dot on the side. Put the larger lens on top with the red dot on the top of that. It is important to orient the red dot up for parallax correction.

As to the Maxwell screen, it gets debated a lot and sometimes angrily as some love them and others think they are unnecessary. My own opinion is that they are worth the money and I have them on both of my Rolleis. They are much brighter and easier to compose with though when it comes to very precise focus the original screen might be better.

Rollei still makes a variety of screens for the new version TLRs. They have the ultra bright screen but in their descriptions of their screens they recommend a plain ground glass for extra precise focusing. I find precise focusing no problem with the Maxwells, though some apparently do have a problem.

 

[Valerie]

I have a Rolleinar 2, bay 3. My info says the focusing distance is 19 3/4 to 12 1/8. (I think this comes from the Rolleiflex accessories manual I have somewhere)
Also have the Roll.3. These lenses are among my very favorite bits of equipment!

 

[Larry.Manuel]

a whole APUG thread on Rolleinars

is here:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Larry.Manuel]

Maxwell Screens.

My story: I bought a trade-in Rolleiflex 3.5 at my local store. It was delightful. Then, for some reason, I bought a fully-overhauled near-mint Rolleicord Vb from Harry Fleenor [ rolleirepairs.com ] and had him put in a Maxwell screen [without microprism, with grid]. When the 'cord arrived, I found the Maxwell screen significantly more pleasant to use, and found the Rolleiflex so dim that I had little desire to use it. Since then, my Rolleiflex film advance seized, I had it overhauled and a Maxwell screen installed in it, too. Now: better than new.

Summary: Some say the Maxwell screens are 2 stops brighter. I'd agree. The corners are especially brighter. Without using a Maxwell screen, obviously generations of Rollei TLR photographers did superb work and never complained. They are not cheap, so that must be considered. On the upside, Harry adjusts the focus of the taking and viewing lenses so that both are synchronized, He states that they often aren't correct when he receives Rollei TLRs.

Your next question: Overhaul turn-around time? For me: [1] Rolleicord and [1] Rolleiflex, sent together, full overhauls on each, screens in each, four months, inc. shipping both ways. I'm pleased.

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks for the info on the Maxwell screens. I may have to look into these but seeing as Harry Fleenor is back-logged for a few months, I'll have to wait a while!

 

[Rolleiflexible]

If you want a Maxwell screen you shouldn't let
Harry Fleenor's backlog deter you. Two thoughts:

If your 3.5E is a later model, it has a removable
hood. If so, the Maxwell screen drops into the
camera -- no need of a technician to do it for you.

If not, there are many other Rolleiflex technicians
out there without Harry's wait times. Try Krikor
Maralian at Krimar Photo (www.krimarphoto.com).
Krikor was the Rolleiflex tech for Marflex for many
years. He knows his stuff, his prices are fair, and
he usually turns cameras around the same day he
receives them.

RFXB
day he receives them, and he does

 

[jasonjoo]

I've heard of Krimar Photo, but Harry is local to me, so I always though I'd drop off my camera at his shop. How do I know if my 3.5E is a later model? Both don't have the built in meter.

Thanks,

Jason

 

[dpurdy]

If your 3.5 E is an E2 or E3 it will say so on the camera by the serial number. I really like Harry Fleenor and he has done a lot of work for me but his back log is not likely to go down anytime soon and Krikor might be a better choice unless you know you won't use the camera for 2 or 3 months.

 

[pgomena]

You might also look for an original Rollei fresnel screen. My (used) 2.8C came with one. It's just a little plastic thing held on by a couple of clips, but it makes a significant difference. I've always used it and never considered my Rollei difficult to see through. My Hasselblad has an acute matte screen, and I find it to be amazing. The viewfinder image sometimes appears to be brighter than the ambient scene. So, outfitting your old camera with a new-tech screen is probably a good investment.

Peter Gomena

 

[sjperry]

To get back to the Rolleinar's. I use all three on my 2.8E. I use them them for close up pictures for ebay (I sell there as a small business). They are quite easy to use once you get used to them. There is some overlap between 1,2 and 3, giving you focusing from the usual 3 feet down to about 8 in. The viewing lenses are pointed down slightly to correct for parallex. My experience is that this works quite well, but as someone else said you must get the ed dot of the viewing Rolleinar at the top, otherwise the parallex correction will be going some oddball direction.

Steve Perry

 

[jasonjoo]

If your 3.5 E is an E2 or E3 it will say so on the camera by the serial number. I really like Harry Fleenor and he has done a lot of work for me but his back log is not likely to go down anytime soon and Krikor might be a better choice unless you know you won't use the camera for 2 or 3 months.

Both have DBP on the left of the serial number and DBGM to the right. Neither has E2 or E3 etched on it. Guess I can't install the screen myself!

 

[dpurdy]

Also with the E2 and E3 the WLF is removable and is held in place by an obvious black clip on both sides of the camera in the middle just under the finder lid.

 

[jasonjoo]

Hmm, nothing of the sort dpurdy. Wish there was though!

 

[whlogan]

Rolleinar

Look up KOH's Cameras in New York. He will fix yopu up with the proper Rolleinar. Nothing less will suffice. Stay away from anybody else's close up lenses. Zeiss does it best.

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks for the suggestion whlogan.

I received my Rolleinar 1 from Adorama. I ordered a Rolleinar 2, but received a 1 instead. I actually don't mind as the closer focusing distance is actually working out well for me. Haven't made any exposures yet, but will do so this week. I wonder how thin the DOF will be now due to the closer minimum focusing distance!