Rolleiflex Strap Adapter on the Cheap

[j_landecker]

Just wanted to share my solution for attaching a strap to my Rolleiflex 2.8C. Although it looks like you should be able to feed a strap straight through the slot on the body, I found that the webbing on all my straps was too thick. I was thinking about forming something out of wire when it hit me - binder clips! Removing the wires from a medium sized clip, I bent the ends up and out a bit to hook onto the bar on the body. Even when pulled at an angle, it would take a considerable force to pull right out and they won't slip out no matter how the strap is jiggled around.

Jim

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Nice!

 

[Rick A]

Clever!

 

[Lightproof]

Cool solution.

But I would feel more safe if it would attach directly to the same bolt as the original clamps. To protect the WLF you need the guideance of the bolt.

It is ridicolous how complicated it is to use a strap on these cameras

 

[Jeff Kubach]

So far my strap is still good, but will have to remember that solution!

Jeff

 

[j_landecker]

To protect the WLF you need the guideance of the bolt.

Because they're constrained by the slot formed by the metal bar, the wire loops can't tilt and contact the WLF, if that's what you mean.

 

[Richard Wasserman]

Very nice!

I found that on my 3.5F I was able, with a little bit of coaxing, to use a Domke strap—it just fit through the slot.

 

[seezee]

I've found that the straps made for Hasselblad 500 series cameras work on the 2.8c, as well — there's a seller on FleaBay who sells knockoffs of the connector for $18 a pair; I plan to order them and attach them to my new Barton1972 RolleiStyle strap (which, sadly, does not fit for the same reason as the OP's strap did not — too thick!) so I don't have to ship it back to Hong Kong.

The only drawback to the Hassy connectors is they don't go thru the strap slot — but the connection to the post is rock solid & they clear the projecting bracket quite nicely.

 

[paul ron]

excelent idea!

the only worry i have is excessive wear on metal to metal parts.

 

[seezee]

excelent idea!

the only worry i have is excessive wear on metal to metal parts.

There is likely to be some wear, although I doubt it would affect the integrity of either part as they are both steel. It's a pity the Hassy connector won't fit through the slot, but the 2 angles on it are too acute. This means that the strap ends will rotate as the camera swings on the strap, & that's where the wear comes in.

I wish someone would offer an aftermarket copy of the original strap connectors!

 

[mgb74]

"Real" backpacking specialty shops will often sell nylon "tape" that should be thin enough to fit through the slot and strong enough for the TLR.

 

[seezee]

"Real" backpacking specialty shops will often sell nylon "tape" that should be thin enough to fit through the slot and strong enough for the TLR.

Are you referring to seam repair tape? Doesn't that have an adhesive backing?

 

[mgb74]

No adhesive on the "stuff" I'm talking about. What I've seen and used is black, comes in 1/2" and 1" widths, and not much thicker than a sheet of single weight photo paper. In fact, as I play with some 1" wide tape I have here, I see it can be doubled over and fit in the strap slot of my Rollei Automat. I bet I could cut a small buttonhole in it to slip over the post, but not sure how secure that would be.

 

[mgb74]

The thickness of the tape/webbing I have is .02" (based on folding over 10 times and measuring). Much thinner that what's commonly sold as webbing for straps, leashes, etc.

 

[seezee]

No adhesive on the "stuff" I'm talking about. What I've seen and used is black, comes in 1/2" and 1" widths, and not much thicker than a sheet of single weight photo paper. In fact, as I play with some 1" wide tape I have here, I see it can be doubled over and fit in the strap slot of my Rollei Automat. I bet I could cut a small buttonhole in it to slip over the post, but not sure how secure that would be.

Something like this? or this? The 1st one actually lists camera straps as a use.

 

[mgb74]

Yes. I would trust their thickness measurement before mine (or maybe slightly different material). Personally, I would prefer this thicker 1 1/2" wide webbing for the strap itself. But you can sew the thin tape to the thicker webbing. Or use the 1/2" wide tape sewn onto a metal Hassy or Rollei connector if you have an otherwise scrap strap.

Also, the shop where I get this also sells small spools of thin but very strong nylon thread.

 

[seezee]

Yes. I would trust their thickness measurement before mine (or maybe slightly different material). Personally, I would prefer this thicker 1 1/2" wide webbing for the strap itself. But you can sew the thin tape to the thicker webbing. Or use the 1/2" wide tape sewn onto a metal Hassy or Rollei connector if you have an otherwise scrap strap.

Also, the shop where I get this also sells small spools of thin but very strong nylon thread.

I'd consider using mil-spec paracord for sewing with (inner strands only).

 

[Kodachromeguy]

There is likely to be some wear, although I doubt it would affect the integrity of either part as they are both steel. It's a pity the Hassy connector won't fit through the slot, but the 2 angles on it are too acute. This means that the strap ends will rotate as the camera swings on the strap, & that's where the wear comes in.

I wish someone would offer an aftermarket copy of the original strap connectors!

I think you guys are talking about two types of Rolleiflex straps:
1. The older models such as the C use a plain strap that goes under the metal slot and then over a stud. Solution: buy or find an older narrow SLR nylon strap (not the idiot braided banjo straps of the type sold at mass market stores). Remove the the end and neatly cut a slot that will fit over the stud. Burn the nylon to prevent unraveling.
2. The Rolleiflex E, F and possibly the FX use a strap with the metal "scissors" clips. These are great because they are quick to remove if you take the camera in and out of the case or mount to a tripod and don't want the strap in the way. Rather than spend time looking for a used strap, just go buy one of the brand new leather re-creation straps from Fotodiox via Amazon or equivalent. Their new metal scissors clips are excellent. Just go do it rather than inventing kluge adaptations.

 

[seezee]

I think you guys are talking about two types of Rolleiflex straps:
1. The older models such as the C use a plain strap that goes under the metal slot and then over a stud. Solution: buy or find an older narrow SLR nylon strap (not the idiot braided banjo straps of the type sold at mass market stores). Remove the the end and neatly cut a slot that will fit over the stud. Burn the nylon to prevent unraveling.
2. The Rolleiflex E, F and possibly the FX use a strap with the metal "scissors" clips. These are great because they are quick to remove if you take the camera in and out of the case or mount to a tripod and don't want the strap in the way. Rather than spend time looking for a used strap, just go buy one of the brand new leather re-creation straps from Fotodiox via Amazon or equivalent. Their new metal scissors clips are excellent. Just go do it rather than inventing kluge adaptations.

I can't speak for anyone else, but I'm writing about the 2.8c. I initially bought a "scissors" a.k.a. "alligator" strap for mine, due to the seller misidentifying the camera. Then I bought a barton1972 RolleiStyle strap — no joy there either, as the leather ends are a half-millimeter too thick to pass through the narrow strap hangers. So far the only thing that works is my Hasselblad strap.

 

[sixby45]

Those binder clips are amazing! I may try this out Thanks!