Rolleiflex question(s)

[shutterfinger]

Serial number 610863. Rollei club shows it an Automat II, other sources available online show it an Automat I.
All sources say it has a T setting but this one does not or its jammed.
No instruction manuals show this connector on the left side. (A)

I assume its a flash mount.
No service manual has this exact model.
Based on online information its from 1938-1940.

Expert confirmation or direction to exact information appreciated.
Shutter CLA in progress.

 

[shutterfinger]

Verified, no T on the shutter.

 

[ic-racer]

I think you answered it. If there is no "T" setting on the shutter, it does not have a "T" setting.

 

[shutterfinger]

Well, the rusty brain gears started working and I realized that socket A is a ASA bayonet flash connector. I reformed the contact in the shutter so that it makes when the blades have reached full open.
Anything else I've missed?

 

[summicron1]

it is not unheard of for someone to add a flash plug to a camera -- it is a common thing for professionally used cameras. I have an art deco Rolleicord with a very neatly done pc plug on the front panel.

pity this is an asa plug. now you need an adaptor...

 

[shutterfinger]

Shutter dates to 1939, lens to 1937. I can't find the exact date Compur added flash sync except that the web says it was post war with the Synchro Compur.
Whoever modified this one did a nice job.

 

[shutterfinger]

What color was the leather on Rolleiflex cameras from the factory?
Dark brown?
Black?

 

[Dan Daniel]

Black like the paint, that often faded/weathered to dark brown. Seems to be a combination of the black layer rubbing off exposing a brown color underneath, and the black dye/color fading to a brownish shade.

 

[shutterfinger]

Thank you.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

My 1946 Automat K4B2 has a bayonet X synch added, on the upper left of the shutter, it works and is very nicely done.
Lens is a Zeiss Opton Tessar.

 

[shutterfinger]

I bought this one to fix and sell. After a CLA on the shutter and front standard the mechanics work smoothly.
1 second is spot on, 1/2 second runs .7 seconds, 1/5 is 1/4 second and 1/500 is closer to 1/250 with all other speeds well within tolerance.
Someone had had it apart and left screws loose and lost some spacers causing the shutter speed setting to be very difficult to turn. In case you haven't had one apart the front facial has shims/spacers between it and the focusing frame and without them the speed setting gearing in the facial drags on the shutter. The speed and aperture setting wheels and related gears were cleaned and fresh lube applied as well.
I reformed the brass contact strip for the flash so that it does not make contact until the shutter blades are 98% to 99% full open making it an X sync.
I am going to run a few rolls of film through it before offering it for sale. Both taking and viewing lens front elements have some cleaning marks.

Loading film according to the instructions in the manual available at Butkus site does not work. Loading according to those instructions frame 1 is reached with 1 wind after the back is closed.
Running backing paper only through the camera it appears the alignment arrow needs to be between the center of the frame and the top of the image frame. Is this correct for this vintage camera?

 

[Ferdi]

It is an Automat! You do not need to align any arrow for loading film.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

It is an Automat! You do not need to align any arrow for loading film.

Correct.
And, running backing paper only should not trigger the "Automat" feature; the sensing roller should pick up the beginning of the film and count from there.
Literally, you put the film in, close the back and you're ready to go.

 

[shutterfinger]

It is an Automat! You do not need to align any arrow for loading film.

And, running backing paper only should not trigger the "Automat" feature; the sensing roller should pick up the beginning of the film and count from there.

and now the fun begins.
Its not sensing, yet.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

View attachment 198141
and now the fun begins.
Its not sensing, yet.

On mine, a later version of yours, it needed only cleaning and fresh lubrication to begin working. Good luck!

 

[Dan Daniel]

Lower right corner. There is a black tab with a silver disk on it. Slotted screw at the center, two holes around edge. This is the adjustment. Loosen the screw, rotate the disk- it is eccentric. Note its beginning position.

The large strange brushed aluminum shape to the right of this silver disk is a light trap- remove it for adjustments. Underneath it is a large slotted screw. Sometimes I have needed to loosen this screw then tighten it for the changes in the disk to register- it might lock things in place?

You are looking at the hooked part and how it interacts with the flat next to it- this is higher up, towards the front, with a skinny spring about 15??mm long below it. When you close the back this hook should grab the tab. It is grabs much above 3/4 of the width of the tab, or below 1/2 of the tab width, you need to adjust using the silver disk. Remember- back must be closed (or black lever inside back pressed forward- do check this out to see the full action).

 

[shutterfinger]

Possible cause identified, bent back!

Foot attachment at arrow bent upward 0.060 throwing the engaging hook in the back off. The hook side (left) of the front edge of the roller is 0.050 forward of the other (right) side Its currently pushing the lever in the body forward to the point of engaging the advance counter gears. I had previously corrected the lip deformation at the curvature of the back on this side.
Thanks for the adjustment tip.

 

[Dan Daniel]

See the slots in the two rivet holes? The tab is spring loaded. Bend that puppy back into position and let the spring motion take up the excess?

 

[shutterfinger]

See the slots in the two rivet holes? The tab is spring loaded. Bend that puppy back into position and let the spring motion take up the excess?

Well, I had to take a hammer and drive punch to the rivets to get it tight enough to hold position. I was doing that while you were reading and posting.
Test roll of scrap film seems to be loading correctly so after the muscle cramps die down and I get the egr valve put on a friend's car I'll load some ISO400 film and see how it preforms.

I'm starting to miss fine details in my old age and low light doesn't help either.
Better to ask those familiar than spend hours figuring it out!

 

[shutterfinger]

How much tension should the roller in the back have?
This one currently takes 1200 to 1500 grams of pressure to retract the roller on the spring side.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Not sure I understand the question. You mean the pressure on the lever in the film chamber that causes the lower roller to rise when the back is closed?

 

[shutterfinger]

Same one pictured in post #17. The spring loaded end.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Hmm... a lot of spring pressure? I don't know how to measure it. Pushing it back with my thumb, it takes a decent push and if I don't push down hard enough it will simply slide under my thumb, not move?

At the same time, it is free movement. It does feel as if it is binding or under pressure from washers or such.

 

[shutterfinger]

Sounds like mine, probably correct.

 

[shutterfinger]

I put it on the back burner set to simmer and left it until today. Post 14 and 16 reference the film sensing. I took the cam off then reinstalled it after verifying it was not reversed. A drop of oil on the pivots, trace of grease on the slides and a very fine adjustment of the cam got it to sensing the test roll correctly. Glue is drying tonight. Trying to decide if I want to load a roll of Ektar 100 or Portra 160. The Ektar 100 will likely win unless its windy as flowers are in full bloom, windy B&W will probably win out.

Thanks to Dan Daniel for point me in the right direction.