Rolleiflex experts: What is the best value in a 2.8 right now?

[hexarrg]

I already own a 3.5 MX-EVS. It takes great photos but I would really like to get a 2.8 model and some type of brighter viewing screen. To those of you that are familiar with the current market, where does the sweet spot of value lie for a 'user' condition model right now? I don't really care about cosmetic condition, on-camera meter(working or otherwise) but obviously don't want lens fungus or any critical problems that couldn't be corrected with a basic CLA. I've looked at the various models/years list and have browsed around on ebay but I'm not sure about market trends or market interest in certain models that may be unrelated to their desirability as a user camera.

 

[dpurdy]

It depends if you want the removeable finder or not. If you don't want to use a prism then I think the 2.8C is a really nice model and goes well under a thousand and you can get a maxwell screen for it. For perhaps slightly more money is the 2.8E also without removable finder. Both models come with Planar or Xenotar though I think you will find more Xenotars with the model C than Planars. The 2.8Fs are going for ridiculous money lately on ebay. The late mint condition white face ones are starting to get close to new FX value at well over 2 thousand.

 

[Sparky]

Rolleiflex prices are absurd! Get yourself a SLX2, 6002 or 6006 and save some money and have a killer camera. Or go 3.5. The only significant difference is vanity and the ability to impress your friends.

 

[hexarrg]

I'm only interested in waist level viewing but if even a user 2.8 is gonna run $1k I find that my interest has dimmed rather suddenly and a CLA and new screen for my MX-EVS is somewhat more attractive.

 

[Sparky]

Those cameras will give you waist level viewing - they have top-mounted screens - the same as the manual cameras you mention. Just one lens though. SLR. Anyway - a manual may well be more reliable and less of a pain where batteries are concerned.

 

[luvcameras]

Here is my Rollei Price and Info Guide:

http://members.aol.com/dcolucci/rolleitlr.htm

On ebay, prices can vary greatly - it pays to be patient. You can find 2.8F's sell for $ 900 to 1300 for type 1. A better value would be a 2.8E type 1 which would run $ 550-650 for a good user with meter - then I would install a better focus screen.

Dan

 

[Dave Miller]

Here is my Rollei Price and Info Guide:

http://members.aol.com/dcolucci/rolleitlr.htm

On ebay, prices can vary greatly - it pays to be patient. You can find 2.8F's sell for $ 900 to 1300 for type 1. A better value would be a 2.8E type 1 which would run $ 550-650 for a good user with meter - then I would install a better focus screen.

Dan

Just thought I would say thanks for maintaining such an informative website.

 

[dpurdy]

To clarify on my previous post, when I said the C sells for well under a thousand that means I see it generally sells for quite a bit less than a thousand. And also when I talk prices I am referring to near mint condition. But I think you might be better just using your money to refurbish your 3.5 and getting a new focus screen. The 2.8 doesn't really offer any improvement over the 3.5, and the 3.5 has cheaper accessories as well as a slightly more dynamic perspective.

 

[photobum]

I'm with dpurdy on this one. The best value is a modern screen and a mirror cleaning for the one you have. It will be brighter than a 2.8 with the standard screen and lighter to carry too. I have a F 3.5 and would not trade it for a 2.8.

And the older camera bodies are much better built. This is not a troll, I just trust my Rollei tech.

 

[Trask]

I've got a 3.5E or F -- F, I think -- with meter and removable hood. Even though you point out you like waist level focusing, please do note that with some hoods (like mine) you can push down the front panel of the hood so that it latches. Then you can focus off the screen using the mirror on the underside of the hood, and frame through the aerial find created by the now-open square opening in the front of your hood. This is great for any faster-moving subject - use the split image on the screen to focus (who cares if the image is upside down, all you want is to get the split image right), then follow and frame your subject through the hood. It's great for pre-focusing when you know your subject if going to be at a particular distance. This is one capability none of the waist-lever 120 SLRs has, to the best of my knowledge.

 

[dpurdy]

I used to use my Rollei "Sports Finder" like that before getting a prism. Is that not possible with the non removeable finder? I found it worked very well if you wanted to do eye level shooting or if you want to look straight down at a subject. The view out the sports finder is a little off from what the film sees but I was able to figure out the difference and compensate.

 

[leeturner]

I picked up a 2.8C on ebay for just over £100. It's well used but at that price it was worth getting a full CLA on it. It's a lovely camera to handle but to be honest I tend to use my Rolleicord Vb a lot more. It's lighter, has a good viewing screen and when stopped down I can see no difference in the end result. The Vb was a £50 find on ebay and for the 'white face' version was an absolute bargain.

 

[RobertP]

I have a mint 1956 3.5E Planar with meter. I had harry Fleenor go over it top to bottom when he installed the Maxwell screen. A great little camera.