Rolleiflex 3.5F III - current screen is too bright. How's the Oleson split image screen?

[albireo]

I sent my Rollei 3.5F to Magicflex (Germany) for an overhaul. I'm really happy with the work that was done on it. What I got back was basically a new camera.

However- one thing that Magicflex did that was unsolicited (but done with good intentions I'm sure), was to swap the existing focusing screen with a custom-made one he calls 'ultrabright'. I'm having issues with this screen: it's extremely bright, but featureless: no composition lines, no microprism circle, no split screen image. I'm finding I now have a mis-focusing rate of about 3/4 images per roll, which is a lot. I contacted him and he sent the original screen (which he had retained) back to me, but this is quite dark and scratched and it can be improved upon.

I also have a Rolleicord Va which I fitted with an Oleson split image screen. That suits my shooting style much better. It's not as bright as the ultrabright Magicflex, but I nail focus on 100% of the roll, each time.

I wanted to know from people who are using an Oleson in their Rolleiflex. Would they recommend it? What alternatives do I have for a good quality screen with microprism aid or better 45deg tilted split screen for a Rollei 3.5F III? Would I most likely have to tweak focus after fitting it? Many thanks in advance.

 

[Dan Daniel]

You can swap in a different screen without needing to reset focus on your F. On your Rolleicord Va focus would need to be reset (shimming or adjusting the viewing lens itself).

If you like the Oleson split screen on your Rolleicord and want something similar on the F, easiest answer is to put an Oleson split screen on your F.

The only significant difference in the focus setup between a 'Cord and a 'Flex is that the 'Cord has an f/3.2 viewing lens and the 'Flex has an f/2.8 viewing lens. So the 'Flex will be about 1/2 stop brighter (the hoods are different but that's not really part of the optics).

 

[btaylor]

I have a couple of the Oleson screens, one in an Automat, another in a 3.5f. Both with the microprism aid, which I prefer to the split image. I’m very happy with them. I installed the one in the Automat myself, and it required no shimming though Rick has instructions if you need to make them.

 

[albireo]

Many thanks both. May I ask why an Oleson screen in a 3.5F III would need no shimming/focus correction? Good to know and I think I'll just go ahead and order one.

 

[Dan Daniel]

On Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords without removable screens, the index surface for the screen is the top of the screen, the surface facing up, you, as you look down. But the surface that you use for focusing is the bottom surface, the side facing the mirror. So a change in thickness of the screen will cause a change in position of the focusing surface. The means that either the viewing lens needs to be adjusted to lead to proper focusing. Or the screen needs to be shimmed to position the focusing surface in the proper location.

On Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords (well, singular, Vb) with removable screens, the index surface for the screen is the bottom of the screen. So screen thickness does not affect the location of the focusing surface, so no adjustment is needed.

Often the original ground glass screen and the replacement screen are the same or very very close in thickness and so as btaylor found no adjustment or shimming is needed on non-removable cameras.

 

[albireo]

On Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords without removable screens, the index surface for the screen is the top of the screen, the surface facing up, you, as you look down. But the surface that you use for focusing is the bottom surface, the side facing the mirror. So a change in thickness of the screen will cause a change in position of the focusing surface. The means that either the viewing lens needs to be adjusted to lead to proper focusing. Or the screen needs to be shimmed to position the focusing surface in the proper location.

On Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords (well, singular, Vb) with removable screens, the index surface for the screen is the bottom of the screen. So screen thickness does not affect the location of the focusing surface, so no adjustment is needed.

Often the original ground glass screen and the replacement screen are the same or very very close in thickness and so as btaylor found no adjustment or shimming is needed on non-removable cameras.

Brilliant. Many thanks Dan!

 

[henryvk]

With the plastic fresnel focusing screens you can also simply draw your own composition lines with a ruler and an exacto knife. I swapped one of those Chinese split-prism focusing screens into a TLR and, since it is dual format, I added lines for 6x45.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

Excellent summary!

I installed one of Mr. Oleson's screens in my 3.5E and did not need to adjust or shim it. I think the original screen was frosted glass and rather dim. I can check if anyone needs to compare with their screen.

Decades ago, Rollei sold replacement plastic screens to fit the E and F bodies. I recall buying them from Marflex in New Jersey, USA.

 

[JPD]

Please save the original screens. I would hate to buy a Rollei and find that parts are not original. If I wanted a camera with chinese parts I would have bought a Seagull.

 

[macfred]

I use an Oleson split image screen in my Rolleiflex 3.5F - I can really recommend ! AFAIK Rick offers his screens with various composition lines you can choose from.

 

[albireo]

Please save the original screens. I would hate to buy a Rollei and find that parts are not original.

Is there any way to tell if the screen that came with my Rollei was original?

 

[Dan Daniel]

The plastic ones usually have an embossed 'Rollei F&H' in a rounded triangle on the edge. The fresnel stops before the edge and the edge is plain plastic on all four sides. They are also usually scratched up, many times warped, and yellowed from age and pretty useless (uh, that's an opinion, not a fact!). The Rolleicord screens have no focus aid. The Rolleiflex screens have a split image focusing aid.

The ground glass ones have a simple 'cross pattern' for the Rolleicords, one vertical and one horizontal line. Rolleiflexes have a grid of 4x4 lines, 5x5 boxes, ~11x11mm except on the edges The ink is dark reddish brown, and the lines are very very thin and very very defined (unlike, say, Yashica's red which can be a bit thick and uneven).

 

[dave olson]

Never heard of Oleson screens. Where are they produced? Years ago I put in a Beattie Intenscreen with grid, and split center. Try eBay but check the condition.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

Never heard of Oleson screens.

10 seconds and Google answers your question:

https://rickoleson-brightscreen.com/

I installed one of Rick's screens in my 3.5E to replace the ground glass screen (probably original).

 

[Alex Varas]

My 3.5F is from MagicFlex as well with the plain ultrabright screen, no much problem for focusing for me. Last week I installed a Rick Oleson with microprism in another 3.5F, the test roll was a joy, really easy to achieve focus and I didn't need to recalibrate the viewing lens as Dan said above.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Source for what you claim being?

Not sure that I understand the question. What I say is based on my experience of the Rollei screen frame design and the relationship between screen index plane and focus plane.

 

[albireo]

My 3.5F is from MagicFlex as well with the plain ultrabright screen, no much problem for focusing for me.

I wonder if it depends on how we focus and compose. I only focus my TLRs holding them at waist level, and looking down to the image through the magnifier. This way, the image contained in the magnifier overlaps perfectly with the centre circle found on (most) focusing screens. I never lift the camera up to eye level or bend the neck to lower my face to camera level. Also I take pictures of objects which include a lot of vertical or almost vertical lines. So a split screen seen through the magnifier fits the bill neatly.

Anyhow, I've since reverted back to the original split screen, and I'm back to 100% focus hit rate. No focus adjustment needed as people here had correctly predicted. Many thanks everyone.

If anyone is looking to buy a Magicflex ultrabright screen, do get in touch via pm.

Source for what you claim being?

Dan Daniel is one of the world's top Rolleiflex repairmen and his knowledge of the system is impressive.

 

[Rolleifred]

If anyone is looking to buy a Magicflex ultrabright screen, do get in touch via pm.

I could very well be interested if it’s still available! I can’t PM you as I’m a new member, but perhaps you’re able to PM me?

Would you happen to know which version of the screen it is, e.g. the plain or pro ultra bright?

 

[albireo]

Hi - apologies, I don't know. I would have to check once I'm back home. My 3.5F was refurbished by Magicflex in May 2022, so the screen would be whatever he was employing at the time. I will drop him an email and ask.

 

[Rolleifred]

Hi - apologies, I don't know. I would have to check once I'm back home. My 3.5F was refurbished by Magicflex in May 2022, so the screen would be whatever he was employing at the time. I will drop him an email and ask.

No apology necessary - thanks very much for checking. Please do send me a pm when you get a chance.

 

[alter ego 6x9]

I am so glad I am reading this discussion - I was about to order a screen from Magicflex, but had some concerns about those screens being “plain” - no prism, no gridlines… I have now ordered Oleson screen for my 2.8D. I have Maxwell screen installed on my other camera (3.5F) and I am very happy with it. But surely, it is more expensive.