Rolleiflex 3.5E TLR WLF mirror detached... how to re-attach?

So Saturday out-of-town with my 3.5E and a couple of rolls of film, I opened the WLF to find the mirror lying on the viewfinder screen. I puzzled. I picked it up and tried to figure out where it belonged. Not a clue other than, yes, it belongs in the viewfinder somewhere and has to fold up and down. So I'm thinking the whole WLF probably has to be removed to figure out how to re-attach this thing. Wondering whether this is a big job or small job? Usual no big deal kind of thing, or au contraire... it's big deal (don't try this at home) kind of thing. Appreciate any input. (I have a jpeg of the thing, but haven't figured how to upload here which is in turn probably a good thing). Looks like there are no missing parts... just a missing location.

Thanks for reading.

This may help (#33)

ic-racer: Soooooooooooo we seem to be barking up a few of the same Rollei trees, huh? Well... thanks! This does look both more complex and simpler than I thought. But I'm going to side with the complex part and take another look. Camera is scheduled for a CLA, and may have to wait for that to get this thing fixed.

Do you use the focus system with the sports finder? That is what it is for. If you don't use it, no need to reattach mirror until it is convenient. It isn't hard to attach once you remove the hood- 4 small scews around the frame. You'll be able to see where it goes right away once you remove the focus screen itself. #33 in the drawing above. Then again, if this isn't your idea of fun and you don't use it....

It is a front surface mirror, by the way, so be gentle, handle on edges only as much as possible.

Dan: That's exactly it. I use the WLF as designed, and haven't gotten to that level of detail. I've hesitated to use the camera... but noticed that maybe the focusing (and lightfall on the ground glass) isn't affected. Studying the manuals suggested this possibility, and now you've confirmed it. I probably SHOULD learn to remove the WLF for maintenance (cleaning) purposes, but haven't felt compelled as yet. Have to see if my modeling screwdrivers will fit, too. Anyway... this is very helpful information to a new Rolleiflex user. Love the camera! So thanks for helping me put the "state of alarm" back in the bottle.

I see on RFF that it is the whole frame that fell out. If you are new to your Rolleiflex, I would just put the part in a safe place and get used to everything else. Maybe one day you'll want to try the sports finder focus system- it is pretty slcik in its own right, but I never ever used it in actual photography. And there really isn't much need to open up the focus hood. I suggest not taking your Rolleiflex apart for the first few weeks or months! It is very well designed, and it is meant to be taken apart and reassembled as a fine tool, but it is also full of little finesses and tricks and details. But the real beauty is in the photos, not the mechanism.

Dan: Good advice. I've been loving the sharpness of the lens and this camera has been so good to me in the short time I've had it. I've been amazed how sharp the lenses are and how easy it is to shoot. I'd been looking for something for vacation travel and this has just been a serendipitous combination for me. I have a fancier Rolleiflex SLR, but the "simplicity" of shooting with this has been a relief. No, I don't want to mess it up. I've sent a 3.5F off to Karl Ehlers for CLA and gotta say I like the way that later WLF folds up much better, but this is a rugged camera in great shape. Harry Fleenor's push for the 3.5 Rolleiflexes was enough to convince me that the 1/2 stop to 2.8 might have been "nice to have" but in most outdoor shooting - not going to be the make-or-break. Ditto for my MF shooting experience with Bronicas and Rollei's other MF more contemporary SLR cousins. So I've been collecting Bay II accessories (filters and Rolleinars 1 and 2) - which ain't cheap, but are very handy. The only non-Rollei things I've thought to add besides a case and strap is a 39mm-to-Bay-II adaptor so I can use a ND filter to gain selective access to the wider apertures when needed (since I can't change backs to a slower film). On the whole a very maturely thought through system and I like it far more than expected... even in all the arcane "weirdness" (or "baroqueness"). I've even warmed to the almost Art Decco styling.

Here is another diagram of the finder

Check that screw 2, bar 4, spring 3 in ic-racers diagram are present.

shutterfinger: Yes, I think they're all there within at the bottom of the WLF and in place. Your diagram does kind of scream Julia Swanson's line: "I vant to be left alone." Okay. Will do.

JWMster said:

Your diagram does kind of scream Julia Swanson's line: "I vant to be left alone." Okay. Will do.

Click to expand...

Please explain.
That's a crop from a Rolleiflex service manual. The line from the part goes to a box. That box is the part number for the piece followed by the quantity used.
Example: 02014.087.0 is the part number for the screw that holds the viewfinder to the body and the quantity used is 4.

I asked about these parts because according to the diagram if the screws and hinge rod come loose may be the reason the mirror fell out.

#42 in post 2 or part number 07903.00.0 in post 8 is the spring that holds the view screen in place and 2 are used.

P.S.
It would take me about 30 minutes to have the viewfinder removed, mirror installed, viewfinder attached, and operation verified to be correct.

I'm sorry. I meant it as a joke on myself. I found the diagram at my level of magnification (englargement) rather difficult to decipher. I for one do not find exploded diagrams necessarily show the angle or view that I as a "fixer" would encounter. These views seem to fit this. Therefore... a quick, candid look at ALL the parts seems a fair warning that unless I'm prepared to deal with all the other possible parts coming undone (which only experience might know for sure in advance... experience I do not have in this case), I'd be better off leaving the effort to someone for whom this operation is routine, familiar, and all the rest. Hence the Julia Swanson line, and the parts in the diagram want to be left alone from a half-hearted effort to "fix" this on my own. Thank you for asking for an explanation before jumping to a conclusion, and please forgive me if I've offended you. I am not a master mechanic, nor do I likely have all the tools necessary. I am reasonably adept, but not an expert or an engineer... and sometimes it is a good thing to admit one's limits... at least for now.

I've got a pair of Automats and Rolleicords. The 3.5 viewfinder is a bit different than the earlier Cords and Mats but is still very similar.

My concern was if you are missing parts and are probably not. I agree that if you are not comfortable taking it apart its best to leave it for the tech that does a CLA.
When servicing unfamiliar gear I have to position it to match the Illustrated Parts Breakdown to verify correct assembly. IPB"s are a road map to the piece of equipment without the North pointer.